zachb34

Salt water and carpet don't mix very well. If you do take it in salt the motor needs to be flushed afterwards. Either hook it up to a hose/muffs at home and idle it for awhile or take it to a lake after and put around a bit. I would also just give the boat and trailer a quick rinse after just to be on the safe side.

To me it's just part of the fun. Give me a shimano citica 200E along with a lightning rod 7' MH and I'll be able to fish anything that I currently fish on a regular basis. In fact I only bring one rod and reel when I go shore fishing. Now when I'm on my boat it's 5-8 rods and reels with a tackle bag that weighs as much as a small child, and 4 Plano boxes for jigs, terminal, crank baits etc. I've spent enough money on tackle that I could have done 4 years of community college with the money. Its just part of the sport/hobby.

Once I sell my jeep and buy a new truck I will for sure get some of these.

Do you know how much they typically are if I did happen to get charged?

Do you ever get hit with import fees?

Mainly wanted to do it for possible career advantages and I miss the idea of having a "team" like I did in my travel hockey days. Very unlikely that I would after 3 heart surgeries but you never know where life takes you I guess.

Braid that sinks like fluorocarbon. 832 claims to do this but I can't see a difference.

Very good movie one if the best I've seen actually. Being 18 it's made me consider joining the military a little bit.

The only time backing is supposedly beneficial to casting is when using light weights, a braid backing is supposed to be lighter and helps your spool speed up faster. How effective this is in real life I do not know. Your jig will be no where near light and I would actually want as much weight on the spool as I could which would be all fluorocarbon.

The big brands should all suit you well yamaha, mercury, evinrude/johnson, and Honda. I would either pick whatever gives you the best deal or base your decision on the mechanics near you and what they can work on. Although you shouldn't have much go wrong with a 2 hp

I think it's also been called long lining. I didn't want to say long lining though because that also refers to a controversial commercial saltwater fishing issue.

not sure what tourney it was but I saw a pretty well known angler "get around" the rule. What he did was cast as far as he could and then with his reel disengaged he would troll away from it. Once he was where he wanted to be he stopped and then reeled in at the speed he wanted to. He apparently did it to get more depth not so much to cover water.

Here in Florida you can throw them just about anytime. However, I wouldn't recommend the whole 55° water Temps situation. Our bass in florida basically have lock jaw at that temperature let alone willing to hit topwater on a regular basis. Our bass are very sensitive to cold water.

Check out the bass raider thread going on in the boat section on the forums. Depending what you want to do they may be a better and also cheap way to get on the water.

The actual answer is yes, you don't need much to have "enough". However for a lot of members on this board myself included buying the gear and collecting the gear is just as much fun as actually using it.

You'd be surprised how well some of those "big diesel" trucks actually do perform under a load even though a bass boat isn't much. If you can afford the big 3/4 ton plus trucks then there is advantages to them. When taken care of the diesel will last longer than most gas trucks. A 6.7 cummins can also get about 20 mpg under a load.

Its a great reel I have had mine for about a year now. The only advantage I would say it has over the curado I is that its a bit lighter. I also bought mine on sale for 200 so that was worth it to me.

My weakness is I absolutely refuse to buy a spinning rod and finesse fish. That and I also again refuse to use anything but braid. On the bright side I have adapted to my weaknesses somewhat.

X2 95% of topics on here have been covered at some point in time but with out repeat questions there wouldn't be many active threads. Plus there's always someone giving a new suggestion or advice.

I also bought two and felt the same about them. On the other hand a majority of people love these rods.

12 pound test yo-zuri hybrid breaks at about 17ish pounds. Nor only will the heavy line be hard to handle and cast it will prevent your bait from diving as deep as it should. A lot of people would disagree with me on this next suggestion but maybe consider 30# braid. Its easier to get a backlash out and it doesn't get kinked when you do backlash. It will also be thin enough to get down to its running depth quick.

I use USPS on a regular basis. I actually depend on them for most of my "income" I've had about a 3% damage rate with them. With my limited use of FedEx I've had about 25% damage packages and none with ups.

I've seen you on instagram and you do more than OK.

Key to bank fishing in iffy areas is the good ole smile and wave. Works a majority of the time if not just politely leave when asked.

The main key to a baitcaster isn't so much the thumb skulls hut more of how you cast and let the rod load properly. A smooth back cast and release at the right point is critical. You don't need to chick it as hard as you possibly can. The only time I really have to focus on my thumb is casting 1/8 oz xraps which aren't really meant for casting gear. As someone as previously said I mainly just feather the spool at the begining and then let the rod and reel do the work. For most applications on my shimanos I set two pins in the out position on opposite sides of the spool and then just allow a little play in the spool with the spool tension knob.