cart7t

Boy, no kidding. On top of all the info in the articles, a simple search would probably answer 95% of the ridiculous, redundant questions that have been asked repeatedly over time. Just doing that would clear the boards for more important topics like, What Burley had for dinner tonight or more personal attacks on Bill Dance and his fishing abilities.

Nice bunch of catfishing rods you've got there. When will you list the ones you'll use for bass fishing?

Do bass dream and if so, how would it know if it had a wet dream?

I remember that too. ;D

My maxxum 65 has only 2 wires on the TM.

Having a TM on one of those removable mounts and forgetting to put the thing on the boat before leaving for the lake. Trying to launch a boat with the transom tie downs still attached. Taking off from the launch ramp, running down the lake and then remembering all my tackle was back in the back seat of the truck. Attempting to set the hook a fish on my first trip of the season and forgetting to remember that I had all the drags on my reels completely turned off. Having a 24 volt TM, getting to the lake and launching. Hit the on button on the TM and nothing happens. Then remembering I stole one of the batteries to use on my other boat.

Not reliable? The TM mounting bolts sheared off except one, the TM itself was undamaged. Not sure how much more reliable you can get. Well, you could go with another MG. Steel shafts that bend on a dime.

TM's have either a set settings of speeds or they can have a variable control where the speed settings are whatever you want the TM to run at. While far better because you can dial your speed in perfectly to whatever conditions they're also more expensive (usually $100 more for MK) and also have extra electronic circuitry involved in the speed control that can fail. The difference between the edge and Maxxum series MK's are in the beefier mounts for the Maxxums along with the availability of variable control on the maxxum and built in transducers. They are more expensive lb vs lb than the edge series. They all use the weedless wedge type prop which is very effective cutting through weeds. Avoid the Power drives. I owned on and never will again. Great idea but it was never refined for bass fishing. cart7t Do they all have the weedless wedge II though? Is the Maxxum worth the extra $180 over the Edge? I like the 360 break away feature because i like fishing under water stump fields and hit them often. It doesn't specify if the Edge has a similar feature? I will not be getting the built in transducer though! No. They have the composite shaft which flexes when it strikes something. I hit a log once going full speed with my old AT, the previous version of the edge, I was using those TM mounting bolts that BPS sells. It nearly ripped the TM off the front of the boat with only one of the bolts still intact but the TM was undamaged. I can't honestly say the $180 difference is worth it if you're talking a 55lb edge vs a 55lb maxxum. yes, the edge TM's have the WW2 prop.

TM's have either a set settings of speeds or they can have a variable control where the speed settings are whatever you want the TM to run at. While far better because you can dial your speed in perfectly to whatever conditions they're also more expensive (usually $100 more for MK) and also have extra electronic circuitry involved in the speed control that can fail. The difference between the edge and Maxxum series MK's are in the beefier mounts for the Maxxums along with the availability of variable control on the maxxum and built in transducers. They are more expensive lb vs lb than the edge series. They all use the weedless wedge type prop which is very effective cutting through weeds. Avoid the Power drives. I owned on and never will again. Great idea but it was never refined for bass fishing.

http://www.rpmdisplays.com/dewitt/default.htm or this http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_59192_100011010_100000000_100011000_100-11-10

Oh man. I was going to ask you if you were going to get rid of the rig how much you'd ask. I was interested in the motor for rebuilding. I could've turned that one around by mounting my motor on it. Down at KY didn't seem like the best time to ask you though.

I have the following in the Titanium or Platinum series. The only difference between the two was the Platinums went back to fuji guides to reduce costs vs. the titanium guides. AST786 - 6'6" Mhvy fast AST845 - 7' Med Ex fast P785 - 6'6" Med Ex fast P846 - 7' Mhvy Fast If you wanted an all around rod I'd choose the Med Exfast models. The 6'6" model has a slightly shorter handle than the 7' model. You could throw a lot of different baits with that rod including larger soft plastics. I believe the difference in action between the all Stars and others results from their bonding process during construction. For a high modulus graphite rod, the platinums are tough. I finally broke my first one on the road trip on a hook set but it was only because I had stepped on the rod earlier in the day and must have lightly fractured it. Otherwise these rods really hold up better than most high mod rods and you don't hear many complaints about the Titaniums or Platinums breaking under normal fishing conditions.

Might wanna try some of that potted meat as a toppin next time. Hope you cut yor bisquits with a Kaiser blade.

What? Taboo doesn't make the list? It was Kay Parkers breakout flick. ;D

8-) Did you sell the old one or just trade it in?

http://www.allstarrods.com/as_actiontaper.html

I'd look at the 55lb edge model for your boat.

That horse looked like it was shot out of a cannon at the end of the back straight.

The Tracker 1800 TF was a fiberglass bass boat not aluminum. It was pre-Nitro days for Bass Pro Shops.

I'm partial to the Platinum though I've never fished with a Crucial. The All Star is a quality rod with great sensitivity and is tough.

I've had the same type of problem due to bits of dirt and grass that get into the fuel tank and then clog the carb. Clean the carb.

Brock-a-brella

Hydrafoils or doelfins are usually installed to fix problems with a boat and how it runs. Porpoising, poor holeshot, poor lift, etc are all things they can fix. You usually loose some topend speed but it's normally a worth while tradeoff. You can always take the thing off and see how the boat runs without it.

I will say this. I wouldn't take the sellers word for anything on this deal. "It probably just needs to be bored out" isn't the same as "I got an estimate from a mechanic here a year or so ago and it just needs to be bored out, the rest of the engine is fine". When I bought my current boat it had a blown 175 Merc on it. More specifically, it had the lower unit of the merc on it, the rest of the power head was in about 6 boxes. I was given a full blow by blow description of what was wrong with the engine if I wanted to rebuild it along with potential cost. That is until I got home, started sifting through the boxes and couldn't find the carbs. It didn't matter since I already had a motor to put on the boat but.. The seller is interested in selling the boat. He's also not exactly sure what is wrong with the engine other than the obvious and will minimize anything else to make a sale. Definitely make sure you've got plenty of money in reserve (several thousand) in order to get this boat up and running and I'm not just talking about the motor problems.