tbone1993

I used to have a pretty good mix until my box disappeared. Either stolen at the boat ramp aka left behind or fell off the boat and it sank like a stone. That being said I only use 3/4 & 1 oz when Im fishing a lake for small mouth. I had a few of the SK bottom bouncers but rarely ever threw those for largies. My bread and butter as a 1/2oz in shad, chart/shad, or bluegill. Threw those most of the time for LM. BUT the best spinnerbait ive ever used is a war eagle mike mclelland finesse spinnerbait in 3/8. Caught more fish on that and really shouldn't say that too loudly. All of my 3/4 1oz spinnerbaits were custom made for smallies either painted blade or all chart / mix of chart and white. I think its foolish to say you shouldnt have a 3/8 if you have a half. Its more important to have different blade shapes. Have some willow blades for burning, have some colorado blades for slow grinding, and have some indiana blades to switch it up.

Hey guys this is kind of a last minute late night kind of deal. I've got a fisher freedom 240 dlx pontoon 1991 or 1990 I know for 100% certainty the motor is a 1991 mercury 90hp. I am going to assume the only location to mount a transducer is on the bottom right of that image I posted next to the speedometer. I have a hummingbird helix 7 g2 (non network) ice kit with the add on transducer kit xint 9 20 t. Before I go punching holes in the boat I was wondering if I could make a portable mount similar to a kayak would use. Say a pipe attached to a piece of wood to make this thing removable. Im torn between leaving the transducer mounted because this unit will be coming back home with me after this weekend. I honestly have no idea if there is a pass through that I can pass the cable through to get it near the console. The unit would be running on the portable 12v battery (9ah) and not a true marine battery ( though I do have an extra power cable for the future. If I go the mounting route should the bottom of the transducer be below the pontoon or even with it? For those guys with units on pontoons will this thing work when under way or will the prop wash have interference? Don't have a trolling motor so it would be a slow troll. Sorry for the rant, any insight on installing a transducer would be helpful. Ive got all the tools and technical skills just weary because its my first install and don't want to make holes in the wrong spot with only one potential location. ( pic isnt my boat just the same model.) Also wondering if i should put a spacer between the mount and that plate.

I would be first in line if they came out with polarized contact lenses lol. God I hope that isn't a thing...

I only buy or sell used gear from reputable people. For instance if I posted a rod/reel for sale on this site and you asked me to purchase it I would probably shy away because you only have four posts. My guys looking to rip people off create multiple accounts or fake account ( lots of that on FB marketplace). I also tend to look for guys that have some sort of tournament experience or reputation to uphold. Guys like that sometimes sell their older gear when they're changing sponsors or want the latest and greatest. Chances are if he's got a professional page the last thing he wants to do is get wrapped up in a controversy. This doesn't mean its always a safe bet. NEVER use paypal friends and family, its almost a given that your money will get gone and you won't get what you want. Seldom have I found quality gear at a garage sales. I always tell new anglers that are looking to save money to just buy last years model. 9 times out of 10 its just slight cosmetic changes with a few minor performance upgrades. Do your research first.

Usually they include washers ( spacers ) in the box to fix issues with the line laying weird.

Just got a pair of slack tides the other day. Went for them over a fully enclosed pair like the tuna alley or fan tail which were on my list. IMO the Slack Tide look better as a casual pair than the tuna alley etc. Still want a pair of full wrap around for fishing but those will come with time. That being said when I did have my slack tides pressed tightly against my face I did have a little fog up. Pulled them away and I didn't have an issue all day. I've had similar issues with other brands on hot days that are not open on the bottom. Just think its something that happens to most enclosed wrapped glasses.

Ive got some big bass this time of the year on bluegill wake baits.

The two follows were actually two 3.5+lb small mouth at the same time. Idk if I changed my retrieve up or what did it.

They're both 68 special weedless. Had two follows on a perch 6" regular no takers.

Just bought two weedless 6" Huddleston on accident instead of top hook Baits. Do these hold up as well ? I'm new to the swimbait game but love the small 3.5" weedless aha swimbaits by huddle.

wolfram alpha

Just wanted to say that I got a few diawa rg walleye rods in the shop the other day and man are they nice. Pretty much $150 for a sweet combo. I sold my last ML and I'm kind of upset I didn't take it for myself. It's got the action of a much more expensive rod. If you're looking for a sub $100 rod I would look this way.

Eva just seems too cheap for me. Spending $200+ on a rod it better come with some cool looking smooth cork. The foam handle rods I have just seen cheap, granted they are only $150. I like how a weathered cork rod looks and the battle scars they get. Not a fan of cork handle reels either.

Looking to make some jigs and some pour some weights. I've got the entire setup at work ( melting pot, Lee pot, industrial ventilation etc) but I want to get my own mask. What brand and filter do you guys use? Part numbers would be a huge help, also I doubt I will melt plastic but you can chime in with those as well. Tried to search a few topics but couldn't get exact model numbers. Thanks.

"Be careful when cleaning plastic parts with anything other than soap" You can use something more caustic to clean the bearings. Not recommended for other parts of the reel, per the article. Just like cleaning a gun you want to remove the solvents completely before applying oil or the solvent will degrade the oil.

Screw it ill buy both.

Think I want to learn to walk before I run. Going to start with Hudds and if the addiction is real move up from there.

The fury has been heavily recommend but I'm digging that Powell Endurance. Never had a Powell so I may give them a shot.

In that price point I would go with the Diawa Regal ,Legalis, or an Exceler in a 3000 size. You could go down to a 2500 if you prefer a smaller reel. The Shimano Sedona series never impressed me and this new model is the same. Have a 500 Sahara and it is a pretty decent reel. Haven't felt a larger one in hand to compare to the Diawas. That being said all of those Diawa reels are an ounce lighter than the comparable Shimano and Pflueger reels.

Buy local and skip the big box. I send in about 5 St. Croix rods for warranty each week , everything from 10 year old avids to year old legend tournament bass rods. Not once have I charged someone $55 to replace an entire rod because an eyelet was broken. The only time guys pay the replacement fee ( starts at $55 is different for every rod series) is when they snap them in half or they are out of warranty. There is a good chance cabelas sold you a rod that st croix was discontinuing. When that happens the warranty period is shortened, usually those rods are supposed to be put on clearance.

Really wouldn't throw anything above 12lb FC on a M/f rod unless it was something like a medium moderate fast crankbait rod for squarebills with 15lb. 50lb braid is really best for jigs/frogs. Like others have said 30lb braid might be better for your use if you need to use braid.

Deep cranking might not be as prevalent in your area or as productive. I know down south on reservoirs it is very prevalent but some areas just aren't the same fisheries. First thing first mark the fish on a graph. If you aren't finding fish in 20FOW you aren't going to magically catch fish that aren't there. As some have said if a football jig or carolina rig works in your area don't re-invent the wheel.

Just looking for some suggestions on an entry level rod to throw around 6" huddlestons / Huddleston 68s. Trying to keep it under $200 and would prefer a cork handle but that isn't a necessity. Also wondering what action is preferred for soft swimbaits (hudds) and treble hooked swimbaits(bullshad etc). I'm not a fan of rods that feel like broomsticks and if spending over $200 means a lighter rod with better feel I can increase my budget.

Got to pick up line quickly to get them when they're biting like that. Good thing is when they bite like that you can usually get them to bite again on a missed hookset. That being said fish that tend to rapidly bite a bait are usually gills or perch in my experience. Next time you feel that take a look at your bait for bite marks.

Pegged t rigs work better over unpegged baits. Feel like unpegged weights tend to let the bait slide away from when you want it to go. Many times its the spot on the spot that triggers a fish. Normally have a finesse bait and a heavy flipping bait tied on. White, Pink , yellow etc anything you can visually see deep.