iabass8

Odd. Guess I never noticed. Not sure if the Citica had green that came stock /w the reel. Green spares aren't listed on the schematics. Curados do have the green part # listed though. Neither of the 2 square green part numbers come up /w the citica being compatible. Guess you have 2 options as there are 2 part numbers for the squared green brake collars BNT3309 BNT2495 if you look up 3309 it says calcutta but I'm not sure if they are interchangeable. Just call shimano on monday and ask them which of those 2 fits. You can order them all over online for .99 a piece but I'm sure shimano has some in stock. That's all i got sir.

Those are the same ones that E series curados/citicas used. If I remember right (it's been a long time), the E series reels all came /w a small baggie /w the different colored brake blocks in them. I unfortunately just checked my box and do not have them anymore. I vaguely remember giving them away. However...I think this is what you are looking for:

I don't know either but he said same as Citica E so I just went /w that.

The color brakes on the old VBS system represent different brake weights. Smoke/Clear- Lightest Red/Pink- Lighter Green- Heavier Grey- Heaviest Not sure on the part numbers but you can call shimano and just ask for X color.

Total scan has 2d/down/side imaging all in one transducer. On plate depth readings over 40mph are hard to keep consistent. Up to 40 it's fine if you install it correctly. I dumb lucked into doing it spot on first try on a mounting block. On plane depth is, for the most part, useless on plane anyway. Quality mapping is more important. If you really want it(2d on plane) get the Lss-2 and y-splitter for a separate 2d transducer that mounts inside the boat for on plane 2d. Then you an mount the Lss-2 to transom.

https://www.bassboatseats.com/products/bass-boat-storage-console https://www.basscatstore.com/carpetedstepbox.aspx

You could run the motor in a tub/large barrel/trash can for back pressure if need be. At least youll know if its firing on all cylinders and runs. Check the LU oil and compression after you run it. Oil shouldnt be black and stink or full of water. Water will drain first. Make sure the hull is solid without any cracks, holes, or stress cracks. If you can get it for 15-1600 it should be a good buy. Just be aware you will be replacing all the fuel lines, lots of wiring, and the upholstry. Motor has been sitting so you’re looking at new LU oil, seals, water pump kit, plugs and filtlers at a minimum for a bost that sat that long. After all is said and done and your motor doesnt need anything except what i listed, youll be in for another 1000-1500.

If you take the boat to him and he wants 400$ find a new mechanic. Checking over a hull / motor usually doesnt run more than 200$. I guess I wouldnt walk away if he wouldnt let me water test but I wouldnt give more than 1500. A no to running the motor or doing any compression checks would make me say no though. Just make sure there arent any softspots in the floor anywhere in the boat. If there are you have no idea if there had been constant leaking thus water logging the insulation. Thats something I would walk away from as well. Make sure theres no cracks in the transom or around the motor mount holes. Offer 1500 if the motor checks out. Odds are you will be redoing all upholstry and a lot of the wiring. You have one heck of a project but 1500$ would be a deal for something that runs and doesnt leak.

2k isn't a terrible gamble. The best thing you can do yourself is run the motor on muffs at this place to warm it up and then do a compression test of all the cylinders and make sure they are all within 10% of each other. Most auto stores have the tool you can buy for 25-30$ or sometimes rent. Check the lower unit oil for any water. Just twist the plug and let it drain a bit. You're going to want to replace it with new stuff anyway but if there's water, you'll get an idea if it's just seals or possibly a bad lower. unless you put back pressure on the motor (run in lake or in a tub) you may not hear gears grinding if it's bad. Stabilizer or not...2 year old gas will need to be replaced. Just judging from the pics...that's going to be one heck of a project. I personally wouldn't do it unless I could put it in the water to at the very least check the full for leaks. Any cracks on the transom and I would walk away. If he won't let you run it or anything offer 1500.

Yeah 2800 seems a bit...low. But if you are looking to buy used, then boattrader and craigslist will be your best bet. you could look at bass.boatcentral but you won't find too many tin boats for sale. There's a few though.

I very rarely fish the flat side crush or a 1.5 plastic bait through brush or near stumps. when fishing wood and brush and sparse grass, I almost always use a WEC E1/E2, Bagley Balsa B1/B2, and a PH customs balsa squarebills. They are more buoyant even with larger hooks, they "hunt" better, and deflect really well. I will fish the LC BDS2 around shallow grass as well.

If you can spring the Tatula LT I would jump on that. I also have a Fuego LT that is very smooth.

My favorite is stating “no trades” and you get a message asking if you will accept any trades...and then respond you will trade them the item for money....and then be called a *****.

Yeah

The action is worrysome to be honest. The crank/jerk rods were the first I looked at. I have a feeling I want to go with something non-crank thats fast and just hope it isnt a buggy whip.

Which one do you have? The 610 or 68? No sir. Sorry, I’m wanting casting. The 68 splash it rod would he ideal if it werent for that long handle.

I guess I should say the plan for this rod is for yellow magics , ricos and popx in the 1/4-3/8oz range. I can't find a lot on these rods except other models fish lighter than their ratings. My concern is if I go the 69 MF route the top end will be cumbersome but if I go the 69 MHF route the lower end won't load. My gut says the 69 MF will be ideal /w a major craft. I don't want to go /w the iovino models. The handle lengths are way too long for what I prefer in a popper rod.

Anybody use this rod? Interested in how true the lure ratings are and how "fast" the rod action is. Sensitivity isn't a concern for what I want to use this for.

Been using a MXF rod for jerkbaits for over a decade. Love it and have no issues. Squarebills I use a dobyns CB glass.

The cb is faster than the cb glass

Running 5-10 min WOT isnt fully charging your battery...even if “it looks like it”. Takes a lot more than that. Also, units can give false readings. Use a volt meter to check it. Best solution-get the largest battery you can afford and charge it at home after every use. You dont have electronics that require a house battery. I use larger graphs and can sit in the TM for hours with everything running and my 29g fires up and hardly dips below 12.3 after hours. have you tested your battery or just assumed it was good? Charge the battery full, remove everything off it and let it sit for a day. It should read 12.65. If its lower you have a bad battery that isnt holding a charge.

It's more than likely the main gear and pinion gear that need to be replaced. You can tear the reel down and clean the pinion bearing. That will cause grinding if it's bad but what you're describing is likely gears not meshing. you can clean them and put some fresh grease on but, while grease is necessary, it is a band aid initially. If the gears are bad, new grease will eventually spread in the teeth to lubricate and they grinding will be back. Could be as simple as a failing AR bearing, too.

You're in for a battle....just keep pestering and pestering until you get the claim approved. File a complaint as stated above /w the post master general if you get it denied for no reason. They will look for any possible reason to deny a claim. When they ask for proof of anything, provide them with more then they could possible need.

The RCS G1 1016SV or the RCS G1 1012SV

I think you made a post on TT asking this same thing. One is an SV Reel One has a g1 1016 spool. Both reels palm differently. Put an SV spool in the Steez A and you have the best of both worlds.