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iabass8

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Everything posted by iabass8

  1. Sounds like a good battery. Interstate batteries are hate or love. I personally, knock on wood, haven't any any issues with min. The wal-mart 29 MAXXX are popular because of the free replacement and there are walmarts everywhere if you need to swap them out.
  2. Assuming his motor has the correct prop and isn't on a 21ft glass boat, he's about 8-12mph off top end speed. He should be getting 45-50mph /w the 115. Sounds like the motor is down a cylinder. Could be an air leak in the hose, fuel pump sticking, carbs gummed up, bad gas, etc. Need more info unless you want to throw darts at it. What RPMS is the boat at when WOT, are the fluctuating, etc.
  3. As somebody who has fished squarebills ranging from 50$ and on the occasion the sub 10$ market for years, I do know the quality difference, or lack there of, in components and cheap squarebills. I have years and years of experience fishing the "standard" LC and as of 2 years ago used the cheap 7$ LC. It does indeed lack quality control, the LC standard of paint, and hardware. This isn't an opinion. The company literally came out and said that is what they did /w the 7$ LC as a customer appreciation just so you can own something /w a "LC name" and now pay the 15$ tag. They are your run of the mill split rings and cheap hooks. The 6th sense, again, I'm not putting on a 6th sense jersey here, uses a better hook. None of the ones I've used and still use in the curve have rolled quickly being tossed into zebra muscle rocks. Comparing a paint job by just looking at it isn't practical and not the purpose of explaining why one is better. I've dragged both baits through zebra muscle infested wingdams, chunk rock bolders and early spring gravel for months. The 6th sense, the ones left I still use, only have your average hook rash. The 7$ LC looks like it's been sanded down. Even the BX Brat looks better than the cheap LC after the spring. Your complaint of "they aren't as stout" is a personal preference. Some people prefer to fish squarebills /w a lighter gauge. When I'm fishing plastic crankbaits, it's generally around rock and a lighter gauge hook is more beneficial. Anything non rock is usually done /w balsa and heavier hooks. Most of the cookie cutter <10$ squarebills are nearly identical in performance. You're picking something you just like to look at or a name at that point. There's nothing special, for the most part, about them. Plastic crankbaits of all price points can need some sort of tuning now and again aside from the S-Crank and sonic side so far. It's to be expected because a plastic squarebill is, if fished correctly, being beat to death. If it's running perfect out of the box, great. Two hours throwing them in docks /w chunk rock and you'll be tuning it anyway to how you want it to run into a post. You don't want a squarebill to run "perfect", ever. As long as it doesn't roll at speeds, it's fine. I'm not telling you these are "junk". I'm saying there isn't a huge difference performance wise in the cheap squarebill market. What sets them all apart is cosmetic and if I'm spending my money on something, I want it to hold up.
  4. Snip the ring terminal off that end and get some 6g or 4g MARINE wire depending on the length of the run. Run the new wire to the back of the boat up to the TM. Solder and heat shrink the connections between the TM power cord and the wire extension . 12v systems need larger wire than 24v systems. You will need a 60a breaker near the battery on the hot wire for the trolling motor. Here's the chart for reference as to what breaker and gauge wire to use for your motor: https://www.minnkotamotors.com/sites/minnkotamotors_site/files/condutor-gauge-and-circuit-table_9-11-14.pdf
  5. And no, I don't like 6th sense squarebills and prefer LC. However, I would fish a 6th sense before any of the 7$ "LC"
  6. Cool. The only thing you're paying 7$ for when buying the budget LC is the name. The reason that particular bait is as cheap as it is now is because they cut quality control, hardware, and finish to cheapen the price as a "customer appreciation". The 6th sense have better stock hooks and a better finishing coat. The 7$ LC in't any better or worse than an H20, KVD 1.5, or any other lower priced squarebill. The DRS, RT, RTO, and BDS still have the old quality control/hardware.
  7. Are you looking at your speed on the boat speedometer or from a unit? The boat speedometer is never accurate and should never, ever be given any second thought. It's the most unreliable gauge on a boat and is almost never accurate. Always use GPS. The RT188 /w 115 is a 50MPH boat...tops. There's been reports of people removing the trim tabs to get 52-54 but there is a less than zero chance a rt188 /w a 115 is hitting 60mph on an accurate GPS unless you're going over a cliff. You show me a video of you hitting 60MPH on a GPS in a rt188 /w a 115 i'll paypal you 40$. I have 17' 188 /w a 115.
  8. Better hooks, paint, and quality control over the 7$ LC. The 6th sense 50s are 8.99.
  9. You might be missing a spacer than goes under the pawl cap. The pawl will not make continuous contact /w the levelwind if not kept in place causing binding/uneven line lay.
  10. User error. Spro Bronzeye and the snagproof are some of the easiest frogs to walk. Short fast twitch /w minimal slack. Practice.
  11. Mine is effortless to stow and deploy.
  12. He isn't, and likely nobody else is, replacing them directly after purchase. Hooks bend out, dull, points roll over after time and use.
  13. The Steez SV TW and Steez A is significantly smaller in size than the Zillion SV and Tatula CT/Type R/SV which all share the same frame. The Steez SV TW and Steez A /w a SV spool are the finest reels, in my opinion, daiwa has made to date. The Zillion SV G1 spool is heads and shoulders better than the Tatula SV. Upgrade or flush the bearings on the Tatula SV and it will perform better. The size difference between the CT and the regular Tatula , while not drastic, is noticeable. The zillion HLC is the same frame as the OG zillion, SV103 and TD-Z. It's a more compact frame and ergonomically friendly frame size than the CT reels. The nose on the CT frames is wider and doesn't have a recessed brake dial like the HLC/TD-Z. The HLC spool is a good heavy bait spool. Throwing your average frogs, spinnerbaits, swim jigs, etc in the 1/2oz range the HLC isn't much better than the Stock Zillion spool or the TDZ100m spool that can drop in to it. It is better though relative to the others but not something I would go chasing after. If you want a zillion , get an SV103 and put a Steez 103r+ or TDZ r+ spool in it and you'll have a casting machine.
  14. Daiwa, the TackleTrap, or Hedgehog.
  15. Local club guy just got a brand new lund pro v 2075 /w the new 250 merc 4 stroke on the back. It's amazing.
  16. Bring up the sidescan view. On the right side of the screen you will see a vertical menu pane. 3/4 of the way down you will see "view". Tap that and the options will be be left+ right, left only, right only, and down. (I'm going off the top of my head as to what the verbiage is but it's similar and you'll know it when you see it. ) Select down and your view will change to downscan.
  17. The only way to connect a TI unit to an HDS is via NEMA network. You can ONLY share waypoints through this. TI units do not have ethernet capability so you cannot share mapping, transducers, etc. HDS units are ethernet compatible and can share everything between themselves.
  18. The big change from 2017 to 2018 is you can now get the coinbox on the 188 that comes on the 198. You don't "lose" storage but instead of the middle + passenger folding up, you can only access the under seat storage from either the driver or passenger seat. Probably won't see any of the 2019 RT188 changes until the Ranger show later in the fall.
  19. No, they needed fuses on each hot (positive) wire AT the battery. I believe they recommend something like within 2 feet of the battery post. I run Lowrance so I don't know the size needed for the Humminbird but it's probably 3 or 5a. More than likely, the units each came /w their own waterproof holder and fuse. Just use those.
  20. Make sure to be very clear that you must have a 60a breaker on the ultrex. Don't let them just use your current one if it's not 60. You'll pop the breaker if running on high or spot locking in high current. Make sure it's the appropriate size wiring for the TM. Should be 6g. Electronic wise, all they will do is hook up power under your console and bow and run the transducer. I personally never want my electronics set up like that. Each unit is ran directly back to the battery /w 10g wire and fused on the hot wire at the battery. If you aren't comfortable doing that yourself, I would ask them to do that. 10g wire is plenty and honestly 12g would be fine but I don't ever want electronic issues so I do it right the first time. Don't let them go less than 12g. They will haggle with you because it's extra work and tell you it's not necessary but just do a quick search on electronic wiring and/or issues and you'll find almost always it's recommended to use dedicated wiring for each unit to either the cranking battery or it's own fuse block and then right back to the battery to solve electronic gremlins, voltage issues/drops, etc. Enjoy that Ultrex. I love mine.
  21. There is zero hard evidence he exists.
  22. I put the RCS Steez SV G1 1016 spool in my Steez A. Really good upgrade for the reel.
  23. You shouldn't have 2 leads hooked up to both batteries though dual pro chargers have a float/maintenance mode at the end so it's not going to blow but it still isn't a good idea. You can tape up the unused leads and leave them hanging. It won't hurt anything. Just hook up your two batteries, tape the unused bank up, and you'll be fine.
  24. US2 is 2d only. You wont be able to use anythibg else in the unit sonar wise if you hiik it up. The lowrance hdi or lss2 or totalscan is fat better. I just left the us2 cable tied up on my ultrex and ran an HDI down . If you just want 2d, you can buy the headunit only of whatever lowrance you want and get the us2 adapter cable to run from the trolling motor cable to the unit and you’re set.
  25. Pretty sure these are what you're looking for: I don't think these have ever been used. One has upgraded triple grips.

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