iabass8

Just a thought since you can get it to pee /w the upper flush and not muffs....are you using these particular muffs? The reason I ask is because some lower units are concave and these don't grip completely around intakes causing less water to be "forced" into the pump. What I do to rectify this is put a large clamp I bought at Blaines farm and fleet around the muffs to keep them pressed against the intakes. My '17 ETEC at idle is 8psi /w the clamp and in the water under normal use. If I don't use the clamp my water psi is around 2 . I've only used them once without the clamp and it took forever to start peeing. Don't rev on the muffs. clamp:

Did you replace/test your thermostats? Is it not peeing on just muffs or both in water and on muffs? You should have a water PSI gauge...what does it read?

I throw mine on a 734. Works good for me.

Go custom.... I had the nrx894 for a while and then had it modified to a full handle and balance under the reel seat. NRX handle length, to me, was too short and balance wasn't good but I'm particular about that stuff. It was a sensitive rod but just wasn't "it". Haven't used the steez. I don't like split grip jig rods. If I went St. Croix I would go /w the 7'4 Elite full grip /w torzites. Haven't handled a conquest yet. I have a Steez SV TW on my custom Jig rod. I pitch and flip 3/8-1/2oz and sometimes 3/4 on 20# shooter into laydowns, trees, brush, etc a lot..almost too much.. and it's my favorite thing to do. I went /w a Phenix K2 736 blank, torzite guides, and cork full grip and couldn't be happier. It's hard to put down. Torzite guide train and the blank is ridiculously light. Whole set up feels weightless and it has a hair more power if not right on par /w the NRX894.

Why do you want to....? Unless you're experienced in polishing the internals of a reel, don't touch the main gear or pinion. If it's smooth, leave it. You aren't going to improve the retrieve by doing anything to the main gear. You can make it look like a mirror but it isn't going to improve performance. You can also polish the inside of the pinion but it's hit or miss. There's other points of friction that will improve the reels performance. Spool shaft tips, spacers, clutch cam..leave the gears alone.

You don’t need to create the extra force to charge DC reel. Asking the OP to go try casting to charge the reel is redundant. He’s clearly been casting the reel over and over with the same results. 5 more times or 500 times isnt going to make a diference. You don’t need to huck a large bait every so often to charge the board. All things equal, including distance to target, the spool travels the same distance regardless if its a 1/16 oz bait or a 4oz bait. Working correctly, 1 short cast is enough. Saying it doesn’t is like saying adding a longer handle increases a reel’s IPT (which it doesn’t). OP, you can try sending your reel to reelX. He might have a quicker turn around and knows shimanos really well. Otherwise Ian could look at it from TT but he’s a bit behind right now I think.

Ive got a 45in on my 188 and its plenty long. You could trim the 52 up but the head unit is going to be in the way a lot. I generally have mine up a little higher in shallow backwaters. The 52 would, for me, be annoying. Its fine offshore as the motor will be down further. try email troy@boemarine or google BBG marine. I think they have some 80/45 non links

Orochi XX Diablo Spec-R /w Steez SV TW A.

If you don't hear anything for 10 days, give them a call. Turnaround time depends on how much backlog they have. Could be 1 week could be 4 weeks.

I still like and use it a lot. Abrasion resistance is better than I anticipated. Pros: It's great for pretty much any moving bait. Cons: It's discontinued

Maico1 has a larger collection and experience /w the flagship DC reels and high end Shimanos in general than almost everybody....Gut feeling....he understands these reels better than most....

Understandable. It does happen though. Japan Tackle is a good retailer. Same goes for Digitaka and JPangler. Shipping sucks (time wise)from anywhere in Japan though unless you do express EMS which is usually +/- 20$.

Steez SV TW A on an Diablo Spec R

Send it on back. You could e-mail JapanTackle and ask for a prepaid shipping label being yours is defective. I don't know their return policy though.

Diagnosing sounds and brakes is pretty much impossible via the forums. Could be a bunch of different things. You seem like you've done your research on the reel and have at least a basic understanding on how to set up a reel on a beginner level. You've tried countless settings and still get the same result....brakes aren't engaging. Unless you know somebody locally that can look at it for you, you have 2 options being its new. Send it back for a return or send it to a reel repair shop to look at it.

The don't expect that. 50# just had a larger diameter and is "easier" to throw and doesn't dig in as much. Don't think line is your issue. Just send the reel back for an exchange.

20# braid is fine. 30# is a little easier to use but 20 isn't terrible on a 101. If you got the reel new and you're confident it isn't user error just swap it out for a new one. It's that or send it away to make sure it's working correctly.

Get a transducer mounting block and put that on the back so you can move the transducer around and not drilling a ton of holes in your boat in the process. SI transducers are trial and error. General rule of thumb is 13 in off center of the prop shaft and at the lowest point of the hull. I can't tell from the pic(I think that round piece is the drain) but I think that would put you to the right of the that. I have seen boats /w the humminbird SI transducer where you have it working just fine though.

Pats 27-10 Vikes 17-13

Run them through the PS in the ultrasonic cleaner. Then put them in a final bath of acetone in a baby food jar in the ultrasonic cleaner to clean anything left over. Blow them dry /w compressed air , hit them /w a hair dryer or let them sit. You'll be surprised how long it actually takes for them to completely dry.

I travel past 6 Lowe's stores on a weekly basis. One of them still carries it and the others haven't had any for quite some time. No idea why. I got turned onto this stuff a couple years ago. It's good stuff.

Agree /w the above. Just order it from Daiwa. Part should be right around 20$. You'll have to swap the brake dial and the mag brake over but that's pretty simple to do.

You're better than these topics. You're getting soft in your old age.

Zillion SV TW is the same frame as the CT, CT Type R, and Tatula CT SV TW. The SV103 is one heck of a smooth reel but the Steez sV TW is the best/smoothest I've used. It's a very small , light weight reel with a lot of power. I've used mine on my jig rod for the past year and it stays there.

I think you mean Boca. Prefer Hedgehog and ZPi bearings now that I've tried them. Cleaning your bearings first before swapping them out will tell you if you will benefit from new bearings.