iabass8

Your description is too vague. Why did you send it in exactly? Did they replace the drive gear and pinon gear or did they replace the bearings that support the drive shaft shaft, pinion gear? "And ball bearing" doesn't make sense.

https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/page/24 Tatula 3x10x4 and 3x8x4 tdx 5x11x4 and 3x8x4 advantage 5x11x4 and 3x10x4 You're also going to need a spool bearing removal tool for the TDX. Hedgehog and Boca both sell one.

Hard to argue with facts

If you're ripping grass, get the graphite. I use the 705cb glass for squarebills and fish a lot of wood and rock. It doesn't have any issues pulling fish away from cover. It's just the slower action when it loads up makes it more of a chore ripping grass. Hard to explain unless you use it. I use a 733 savvy for ripping traps in grass.

743

You can get bulk 25 packs of size 36 from autoparts stores for cheaper.

Guess I've got some ZPI's to order.

Ordered an SLP RCS 1016SV G1 spool last week. Does anybody know what, if any, bearing comes on this spool? Does it come with a side plate bearing like some ZPI? I'd like to at the least order a matching side plate or spool/sideplate bearing.

Not really, no. I'm pretty OCD about cleaning and keeping my boats looking new. Tin is so easier to clean. Not to mention I don't have to worry about fiberglass dings when I bump into stumps. I don't ever need to make 50+ mile runs and race to spots. I'm fine doing 50mph /w a 115 and my 188. Longest run I usually make is 40 miles round trip. Usually 10-15. The rig barely uses gas and oil too, which is great. I was pretty used to gassing up every trip or every other trip and oil was something I put in each trip. The only drawback is those heavy 15-20 winds in open water. Glass boats are generally heavier and don't get pushed around as easy but the 188 isn't a very light boat to begin with so it isn't that noticeable. Having an Ultrex helps ten fold. I can sit in 25mph winds in the main channel and fish a wingdam and my boat won't move. A simple fiberglass dent can cost 1500 to repair. I fish around a lot of shallow stumps, rocks, trees, etc. No brainer for me to switch to the 188. It would be hard for me to justify making the switch back to glass.

Well since you're back to looking... I don't have the 198 but I did get a new 188 last year /w the 115 ETEC and an Ultrex. I've used glass boats forever and wanted to give tin a shot. Glad I did. Love the 188. Super stable fishing platform, massive front deck and more than enough storage. Handles rough water fine. I don't fish KY lake rollers but I do fish the Mississippi and deal with barge traffic. I don't have any problems. Unless you find a deal like the one we posted, you probably won't find a 198 for 30k after you add on electronics, TM, prep, taxes etc. This is boat show/expo season, too. Go travel to some expos and jump in all the boats you can to get a feel for them. There's sometimes show deals to be had.

I would be looking hard at the boat @slonezp is talking about. It's one heck of a deal and an awesome boat.

I really like them for terminal tackle and crankbaits.

The action is slower. Savvy's are not rod's I'd be using where sensitivity is something I want.

http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/ Best in the business

I'm a big dobyns fan but would definitely be looking at the Tatula Elite spinning rods. The non AGS model is 179. I'd be looking at that 7'3 MXF for general tube fishing. If you're fishing the 3/8+ a lot then the 7'1 MH would be ideal. I'd buy that rod over any Sierra, Fury, E6X, or Champ spinning rod.

Buy the rod power based on the weight and hook size you are primarily going to use. I use a lot of stupid tube jig heads from ACT lures in the 1/8 and 3/16 light/med wire hook and use a DX742CHP. Spinning rod powers in Dobyns rods are hard to nail down. They are pretty model specific when it comes to knowing exactly how it will work. Any 3 power dobyns spinning rod will be more than adequate for almost all tube fishing unless you're primarily throwing 1/2oz tube heads in grass. Then I could see a 4 power.

Not all DSG have sales at the same time unfortunately. No idea why. Our local DSG had the 5 for 5 a week before everybody on here was reporting it a few weeks ago.

4 power dobyns spinning rods are pretty stout. Especially if you're wanting a tube rod. I'd be looking at the 702/703

All my vibrashocks that I've used have marks from the blade hitting its head. It's supposed to. My most used ones have almost no paint left on the sides.

Dicks sports Not sure if Canada has DicksSports...

Most units today will work just fine with default settings. You can adjust your sensitivity if you are getting a lot of debris in the water. This guy gives a great in depth "how-to" of the helix 10

Fish ID is a learning tool. There's nothing wrong with keeping it on for the time being but you will most likely turn it off at some point. It does show fish archs but it can and will show false returns like floating logs, debris, clumps of grass, balls of bait, etc. Learning to just read the sonar is far more beneficial. You have a 10in screen. Use a split between 2d/downscan or have side/2d/down up on the screen at once. Being able to look at 2d and then downscan at the same time you'll know what you're looking at. No, the helix 10 wasn't one of the first SI units. There were others before Helix was even a thing. It's a good unit though. Before moving to Lowrance I had Helix units on my boat and I really liked their down imaging. If you aren't getting depth readings in shallow water you will need to do some settings adjustments of adjust your transducer for any obstructions. My electronics work down to around 6in of water and I'm frequently in 3ft or less.

Turn your fish alarm off. It's not always fish that the sonar is picking up.

705 is pushing it /w the 110 and not even close to being enough for the 130 764 would work great for both the 110 and 130. Not a stiff rod and not a super fast rod either. 734 isn't enough rod. 736 glass would probably work but I haven't used it to say much about it.