iabass8

You're not messing around for your first set up. Hats off to you. I have the Xtreme 69mlxf and 68Mxf which both complement each other. The 7' MF would be a good compromise between the two if I had to have just one. The 7' MF will be a bit more versatile for you as well. If I were you, I would opt for the 7' MF. Either rod will handle stripers. I've caught 25# cats on the 69mlxf on 6# braid. Just play the fish out and you'll be fine.

There isn't a single poster in this thread stating the old is better than the new one. Just you for some reason. As pretty much everybody else has posted, there is no performance difference. The only "advantage" of the original Tatula is if you're okay /w the wider frame, they have been 100$ for the past couple years from various vendors. I'm sure you can find the CT just as cheap or close to it if you wanted to. Wrong. The CT / and Original Tatula use a composite side plate(spool bearing side). Both handle sides are aluminium. Regardless of you "thinking the CT looks like plastic", It's the exact same as the original Tatula. Both the original tatula and new CT use the same frame. Lots of reels use a composite side plate to reduce weight. A composite side plate has almost no bearing on a reels longevity or performance. Making that a deciding factor is asinine. No, they aren't. No, they are not "custom". They are the exact same paddle knobs that appear on alot of daiwa reels now....including the CT The smaller TWS was used on the older TWS zillion.

http://www.jodywhitefishing.com/2011/03/trolling-motor-cable-replacement.html

Hull looks great. I would pass. 90hp Motor on an 18 ft glass boat is ridiculously under powered. I would regret not going larger every second despite how well the hull shape is. Your friend is wrong. Triton's are great boats.

Your brother is more than welcome to join. He would make 6 and we only need 2 more. I know it's only July but preseason will sneak up quick. Im sure I can get my wife to join too but she's just a flat out relentless savage and talks sooo much smack. She will be a last resort. She's already in another league of ours. I changed my email that is being used /w paypal so if he would like to join and needs to send me the money shoot me a PM and i'll give you the new address.

You and me both. I've always been tempted to run a separate battery just for pumps and electronics as I have room for more batteries. Peace of mind kind of thing but I haven't had to...yet

I noticed you said you have a dedicated cranking battery and everything else is run off another battery. You aren't running your electronics/pumps/aerators/ etc off one of your TM batteries are you? You shouldn't have anything connected to your TM series except your TM itself. That's asking for battery failure. I bought the biggest, baddest AGM cranking battery /w the most reserve I could find and have never had a cranking battery issue since and everything except my TM is run off that one battery. You should be set up the same.

You need to use backing on that spool when using braid mainline. It isn't your drag that is slipping. The line is slipping around the spool. Un spool the line back onto a spool, another reel, or something else that you can wind it back on later. Get some cheap 10-12# mono and put just enough on to cover the spool. Tie the mono to the brand and spool the line back on. Your drag issue should be solved.

I have 1. Zero performance increase between the previous tatula and new ct. Just fits a little better in hand.

I don't believe testing a battery when it's fresh off the charger will give you an accurate reading of the batteries health(as Way2Slow said). Charging them up and letting them sit off the charger without anything connected for a day or so before testing will give you a better idea of their status. As I'm sure you know, your batteries will only run as well as it's weakest one in the series. It sounds like you have one that is depleting quickly /w a bad cell/leak. Personally, I would replace all three batteries at once regardless /w ones that have the same stamp date even if just 1 was bad. What Way2Slow is asking you to do doesn't need to be done on the water. You can do that at your house. You could also take your fully charged batteries and attach the trolling motor individually to each battery one at a time and run it on max for 5-10 minutes. Disconnect the 36v series at the batteries and hook the positive/negative up to a single battery. Run it for 5-10 minutes on high and then take the a voltage reading. Do this to each battery. I would think they should all have the same voltage after being run. If one is lower, you found the problem child. I think that would work at least...just make sure you run each battery individually on the TM for the same amount of time. Also make sure your connections are clean and free of any corrosion. Clean them. I'm not a fan of wingnuts either but make sure everything is tight. Loose, dirty connections can make you loser power.

I don't know if the hub will work on that prop. Make sure you are using the correct washer and components though. If you're worried about the damaging the lower unit when hitting something /w the prop you may want to run an aluminium prop so there's more "give" on impact. If you hit something on the water with such force that the prop slips off the hub /w a stainless, you more than likely did quite a bit of damage to both the prop and the LU/drive and prop shaft. It should take a ridiculous amount of force on impact to rip a prop off the hub. All props are easy to get nicks and small gouges in but if you hit something hard enough /w a stalness steel prop to mangle it, the prop is the last thing I'm worried about at that point. I'm not an expert on props but the ones I've used have a gasket in between the hub and the prop. When I get my prop balanced, I always inquire about the hub and am always told it takes so much force to pop them out that I should only worry about it if it starts slipping. I have 2 marks tapped on mine to show any slippage. Again, I would have your prop balanced and then drive it. It most likely will show any signs of slippage on the water and then you get have them replace it. I wouldn't worry about the hub unless it is indeed slipping. It's pretty inexpensive to repair.

Get it balanced first and foremost. Wont br expensive. You can tap a mark on the housing of the hub and then on the hub itself to check for prop slip after usage. The lines will move a little but not too far.

Sniper handles better. I use(d) KVD on both and sniper still handles better. Assassin wasnt bad but wasnt great either. I use red label on my spinnerbait/chatterbait rod due to how much i change baits and retie and dont have any issues with memory or stretch. In 12-15#. To me, there wasnt a 10$ difference between assassin and red label so i didnt see a need to purchase it again. Stretch wise its a toss up in the mid# tests in my experience. it's just your average fluoro. Nothing impressive that sticks out that would make me choose it again vs others in its price. It was't bad but for theres zero reason to not choose sniper for 3$ more vs 25 more yards.

Jig custom skirt

I actually prefer sunline reaction for moving baits with terble hooks. I havent found anything wrong with it. Plus...its blue. I only use sniper in 10-14# test for senkos/light tube texas rigged/light worms. No issues. Theres a hair more stretch than shooter but its not going to ruin your day. Anything 16-20# for flipping and pitching jigs i use shooter or tatsu. Tried assassin. Wasnt impressed enough not to spend the extra few dollars on sniper. It was okay. Reminded me of a better red label .Sniper just works. Its proven and never faults. No reason to stray.

Flush the spool bearings - should be the first thing you do if you hear screeching during the cast on any reel aside from the Curado I which needs light oil applied every so often. Add a tiny, tiny, tiny drop of oil to each bearing. Clean ALL the oil off you put on all these extra contact spots. You do more harm than good doing that. A "light layer" is likely too much, even on the contact points. You can drastically slow down the spool by adding too much oil. Try that and see if the problem persists.

94% chance these are gross relative to their "upgraded blank" expectation if people are thinking of buying these for a feel presentation. Wish they offered full grips in this line for rods 7'+. Savvy's are/were fantastic moving bait rods. The champion isn't a great blank as a standalone rod. More of a nice utility rod than anything. Doubt the new sierra exceeds the Champ blank which will again be an underwhelming "feel" blank. They do make some awesome chatterbait/spinnerbait/swim jig rods (Savvy). Hope they don't change the tapers.

Weightless plastics and those lightwire finesse jigs, I would grab the 852 .

If you are unable to lock the side plate by turning the pop up tab in the locking direction, I'm going to assume the inner locking mechanism on the side plate is broke. If you take the side plate off, you can see the part of the lock that is either missing or broke. Find it on your schematic and order the part. It's a pretty simple disassembly and install if you take your time. I've taken a couple off to clean sand out of them. You'll be fine. Just go slow.

yes

TW 15% off just started TheHookupTackle is 20% off BTD is finally back up and running with an inventory again after selling off almost everything for their move. 20% off everything. Hoping Monster has a sale so I can use the 25$ off. DX743c HP is getting ordered from the lowest bidder.

Dobyns 765

If i werent a glass guy i would own the ranger 188. I like that tin a lot.

A score of 6.18 is generous.

I buy most from alley's tungsten. Big box wise ill take eco pro. Not crazy about SK weights.