iabass8

Never had a problem with 7# on 1000 size reels. Be odd if 8# was difficult on a 2500.

You aren't going to notice too much of a noticeable difference between the Fury and Savvy line. Calling one "better" than the other is pretty much splitting hairs at color schemes. The Savvy's by all accounts should be priced much lower than their MSRP but they make fantastic chatterbait/swimjig/spinnerbait/frog rods. The champ series is kind of a "bleh" series of rods. They do a lot of things well but don't necessarily excel at any one thing in particular. The exception is the cranking series and the 73X rods which make great frog/jig rods. The only reason to really own a champ over a savvy for moving baits is if you want a hair faster action and the option of a full grip. The Extreme HP's are great for anything sensitivity is needed and wouldn't consider going less. The 795 is also my favorite punch rod. The 745 is a really nice 3/8-3/4oz jig rod. If you're going to be throwing just squarebills, a 3 power Savvy/Fury will fish similar to the Dobyns 705CB graphite. The 3 powers in the Savvy/Fury line fish in between a mod fast/Fast and are by all means a "medium" action. I prefer the 705CB glass for treble hook baits so I use the champ for squarebills/lipless baits. I've been fishing Dobyns for years and don't like any rod they offer for jerk baits but some like the 68X Cb series. I've used the majority of the rods in the line ups to get what I like so let me know if you have any specific model questions.

I use the ltb 68mxf for jerkbaits. Awesome stick. I throw pointer 78s and 100s with the 100 more times than not. Perfect pointer 100 rod . I don't throw vision 110 but I'm pretty sure the 100 is pretty close in size and weight. Should be perfect for it. I have a Curado 51 on mine. Ridiculously lightweight and would have no issues throwing it for an entire day

Depends on gauge of the hook...there's light wire, medium wire, flipping, superline, etc. All come in 5/0. Heavier gauge the hook, heavier power the rod..heavier the line.

Adding chartreuse tips, tails, dots w/e to any bait is 2 fold. For dirty water it just adds a bright contrast. In clear water, it adds a common color that lots of species of baitfish have on their scales or tails. Bluegill have chartreuse on their tails, some species of shad have it on the sides, perch have it on their body, and the list goes on. Sometimes it helps to add it to the bait, some timest it doesn't, and sometimes it doesn't make any difference. In my stretch of the Mississippi and pools north, smallmouth love baits /w tips died chartreuse.

You can try and exchange it at Gander or K&K locally if you got it there by chance.. Otherwise just call the company. According to a lot of people on here, they are very easy and good to deal with.

Epic doesn't even begin to describe how nuts that was. I wonder how many games Odor gets. Bautista will get nothing..except an overdue black eye/jaw ache

KVD- 285 total Elite Series tournaments. 103 top 10 finishes....wow.

3 posts above your post.

Again....I already said that in most instances you won't notice a drastic, if any, difference in using most lower end/economy/some mid fluorocarbons and a quality mono/copoly. It's when you get into the higher end Dragoncall, tatsu and Shooter that the differences become very noticeable but you have to "pay to play" for those lines. .

This ^^ You can fish either braid or mono just as effective as the other. Braid just fouls on the trebles more for me so I stick /w 12# senshi.

The "problem" ( i say problem because you did do quite a bit of good work and I'm not trying to take away from that) with your test is you did it /w 8# line. Lower # test lines have more stretch than their counterparts in higher #. If somebody were looking for a fluorocarbon line to use in heavy cover and were to be directed to your data, they would be mislead in thinking that a certain line stretches more or less than another when different lines stretch differently at different #. An example I made eariler was 7-8# sniper has quite a bit of stretch acts a lot like a mono but 20# sniper doesn't have half as much as the 7/8#.

I think the rattling version is BPS exclusive. Most places sell silent

His test, while extensive and thourough, isn't a good indication of how certain lines stretch. His test only utilizes 8# lines from various manufacturers. Smaller diameter lines stretch more than a larger diameter line. For example, making the statement "according to this test, sniper stretches as much as invisiz" is an incorrect blanket statement. 20# sniper stretches quite a but less than 7#. Same idea for invisx but 20# sniper has less stretch than 20# invisx. See how confusing this gets? Simply looking at his "data" and trying to make an apples to apples comparison or referring people to it when they have a question about x vs x line would be misleading and uninformative. Most people dont use 8# line on a casting reel in the first place. Long story short, people used to punch with mono and 1.5 oz of lead. Dont overthink it. Unless you're going to pay for tatsu, shooter, dragoncall, (sniper to an extent) etc, you arent going to see a huge difference.

Lc 1.5 /2.0

Kinami (yamamoto) Psycho Dad. Just started using these and they are dynamite. PTL Craw D-ouerve and Rage Craw are a close 2/3.

7:1 ratio 28 IPT (pretty sure that's the IPT on the MG7 gears)

Unscrew the line guide cap and pull the pawl out. Rotate the levelwind gear and look for any debris stuck in the grooves. Take the levelwind gear out and clean it with a toothbrush/hot soapy water and dry it. reapply whatever lube you use. Put the pawl back in corrctly and tighten cap. Or.. take it back.

That will work fine.

702

A 3 power Savvy will handle most treble hook baits just fine. The Savvy, while listed as fast, fishes more like a traditional mod-fast action but just a hair faster if that makes sense. The exception being the 735 and 766 which fish as listed. The Savvy line make really good moving bait rods. Not my first choice for bottom contact baits but they will get the job done just fine if wanting one rod to do everything.

Just watch the line guide when reeling in. It will stay on one side and not move causing line to build up. It wont necessarily happen each time but if it only happens 2-4 times its enough to cause a build up. If it does happen, the levelind may have junk in it or the pawl itself isnt seated all the way/dirty.

Your line guide could be sticking. If there is no backing and the knot is in the center of the spool a sticking line guide would be my next check. Reel it in slow and watch it. This happens even on new reels. You should have felt the kink but you may not have. Stuff happens.

I use shooter on a few non twing reels and hook the lures on the reel and/or keeper and make long casts with heavy biffle head. Never had a kinking issue. Its not your line guide or a result of not using TWS. Odds are you had a loop/fluff and didnt notice it when thumbing or casting and it kinked. If it wasnt there while spooling, it happened casting/reeling. As for the spooling on one side more than the other, your knot could be causing this from backing. Cast it out from th boat and move the knot to the center.

You can use a buzzbait /w line attached to a stick. You can use any reel for buzzbaits. Just depends on the gear ratio pertaining to how fast you need to reel. Slower the gear ratio, the faster you will have to reel to keep the bait up.