rippin-lips

Here you go.

Due to a mix up in shipping I didn't get it until today. I'll post a pic when I'm home from the gym with a 6.5oz reel. Should be right on the foregrip.

Correct

Winter buying has already started.

Take a soda cap and fill it with cleaner. Then put the spool up on end so the bearing is submerged.

I'm a big fan of the ECS. and I can't stand the ACS. My Phenix has the SK2 on it. I actually don't mind it at all. I've sold rods because of the reel seat before, but I'm ok with this one. It gets a lot of use too because it's my ml rod.

#12 big game is just a smidge larger in diameter than #16 sniper. #14 is equal to #10 big game. .014 vs .0129 for #12 BG vs #16 sniper Totally agree though. Some #16 fc has a much larger line diameter then you'd need for bass.

Same with jigs up to 3/8. After 3/8 I use a different rod. It has #20 sniper on it actually. I'll be taking it off though here soon.

You worded your post like it's a technique that you've never heard of, or use. You also say that you rarely use a lipless crank. Thus the reason for my question. Then you go on to say in another post that it's a presentation worth using. You also say chatterbait,spinnerbait, and swim jigs are a given. So are lipless cranks and squarebills for ripping out of grass. Sorry, but it makes you sound like you're new to fishing. I didn't say anything about my home lake. I said depending on your location. Obviously if someone is in Florida their waters are different from Pa/Md/Wv. Not all fish transition at the same time either. Just like when they spawn. The jerkbait bite is hot on my lake.

Sorry if this comes off sounding like a jerk. I'm not meaning it to, but are you new to fishing? This time of year depending on your location some fish are into the fall transition already. Lipless cranks can be a good producer. It's a common and productive technique.

I've been using #16 for all my plastics under 3/8oz for a few years. The #20 is a bit much for me.

Most of their cheaper reels seem to have between 5-7 plus your ar bearing. This is the first Daiwa at this price I've seen with 12 bearings. Then you have reels that retailed for $400 like the px68 or og zillion that don't have a worm gear bearing. That part I'll never understand. It's a cheap part that you'd think would come in a reel with that price tag. Though I don't feel it's a major upgrade over the bushing after doing it to over a dozen reels it would still be nice for it to be standard. Keeps me from having to tear all my reels apart and adding the bearing to them. It bothers me knowing it could have one in there just in case there is a small possibility of it improving the reel.

It does have bearings supporting the spool shaft. The reel wouldn't work without them. You can instantly add 2 bearings to any Daiwa reel with removable knobs. Then you can add 1 to the levelwind. The Tatula you can add 2 to the levelwind. It's marketing 101. Make people feel like they're getting more for less.

Well dang I can get bags of gummy worms from the dollar general for $1. That sure beats $7.50 for senkos. Plus I'll have snacks just in case.

Graphite fiber, or carbon graphite is carbon fiber. They're still marketed as graphite rods. That can lead us into the next topic to make this more confusing. One companies IM8 graphite can differ from another companies IM8 graphite. Yes, crazy I know. Example - The older Shimano Crucial was described as being made of IM10 graphite. Luckily I've found a few companies that make rods that do what I want them to despite what it might be made of, or labeled as.

http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html http://www.bassfishingandcatching.com/fishing-rod-action.html Power = heavy - medium heavy - medium - ect Action = extra fast - fast - medium fast - ect Taper = thickness of the rod and thickness of the wall of the blank. Action and taper are usually considered as one in the same.

Yes, it does. My heaviest bait is a 8" hudd which is a tad over 4oz. Everything else hovers around 2.5-3oz and it's perfect for those weights. I don't throw them a bunch so when I do I can feel it.

Daiwa knob bearings are 4x7x2.5 If you have anywhere nearby that sells rc car stuff they should have them in stock.

Sounds like you might of got a reel someone stole the bearings from. Especially if it was used. Mine and Ghoti's both were bought new and had 1 bearing in each knob along with a bushing. The tt review says the same thing too. Trey also just got one and his had 2 bearings. I bought a Steez that arrived that way from Japan. It had 2 plastic bushings in each knob and I know that reel doesn't come with no bearings at all in the knobs. I don't know of any Daiwa that has removable knobs that doesn't have at least 1 bearing per knob. Easy fix though. A lot quicker then doing the levelwind bearing. It was nice of them to include that. A lot of their reels don't have it. Even pricey ones you'd think would come with it stock.

Copoly is just a blend of mono and fluoro lines. It withstands abrasion much better than braid. Toothy fish will slice through braid in a second.

Just something to think about. Megabass rods only carry a warranty to the original buyer. It also has to be purchased from an authorized MB dealer to be covered under warranty.

Choose your rod based on the lure weights you'll be using. A 5" senko and hook weighs 3/8ths oz. A lot more than most even realize. My Alphas SV is on a 6'7 m/f rod and I use it for all the things you mentioned. You'll love the reel.

My DX 704 always has a 3/16 or 1/4 tungsten weight with a rage craw tied on. Dobyns 4 power rods are labeled as a heavy but they're like most other companies medium heavy rods. The 5 power is a better choice. A 1/4 weight plus your soft plastic and hook will weigh 3/8 or even more depending on the bait. Heck a 5" senko and hook weighs 3/8 without a weight. Get the 5 power. It'll work just fine for you.

Remember that a rods lure rating is just a guideline and usually the sweet spot is 1/2 of what it's rated. Give or take a little bit.