ChrisD46

*The WP 75 has the same size prop as the WP 110 ... While you can make a WP 90 run decently using a higher rod angle , use a tiny #10 or #8 Spro Power Swivel and don't reel overly fast - I would either use the WP 75 or use a Berkley Choppo 90 (bigger / louder prop than the WP 90) .

I have not utilized the Neko Rig much except for using with some Z-Man Finesse straight tail worms . While I see a few specialized straight tail worms employed for the Neko Rig , I have enough Zoom Trick worms in every color imaginable which I would like to employ with the Neko Rig - anybody use or tried Zoom Trick worms with the Neko Rig and had success ?

I read somewhere from Gary himself stated how useful a 733c. was for throwing a variety of techniques - weightless Senkos and Flukes being two of his favorites along with 3/16th oz - 1/4 oz. jigs , along with shaky heads in the same weight range when you want to step up from a M/F spinning rod .

*I found some #24 gauge copper hobby wire from Michaels I will try first as it's easy to work with for two wraps . I just watched a smalljay67 video where he snugs 26 gauge wire down after two wraps just to the point where a good tug of the skirt strands does not move sideways or length wise with a moderate tug in either direction ... I figure smalljaw67 has forgotten more than I will ever know about tying jigs , so hopefully I'll be safe with #24 gauge wire . If not I'll drop down to #22 gauge and try again not to be a gorilla when cinching down jig skirts to jig heads .

For tying skirts to jig heads - what is your favorite craft wire gauge size to use that won't cut into the rubber / silicon skirt material ? Most use between #20 gauge - #24 gauge coper craft wire , I have read where some jig skirt tiers warn against #24 gauge (and smaller) wire sizes saying it cuts into the rubber / silicon skirt material too easily and to use #20 gauge - #22 gauge instead . Of course the issue with the larger wire sizes is they probably are a little more challenging to mold to a jig head due to increased diameter / wire stiffness ... Your thoughts and experiences on best wire gauge size that won't cut into skirt material too easily ?

*Good to know - then the KVD should work on P-Line CXX as well .

For solid soft plastic paddle tail swim baits in the 3.3" to 4.75" (i.e. Keitech FAT Swing Impact , SK Rage Swimmer, etc.) what jig head weights do you like best for "bottom - hopping" these paddle tail swim baits in 12' of water or less (i.e. relatively shallow - not deep ledges) ? ... For straight retrieves I use 1/8th oz. mostly but for a reaction bite , bottom - hopping a small paddle tail swim bait I'm thinking a heavier 3/16th oz. or 1/4 oz. would be better and provide a bit better tail action on the fall ... Your thoughts and experiences with above ? Thanks in advance !

Yesterday I was in Academy and spotted new H2O brand vibrating jigs in 1/2 oz. . Good color selection , decent skirts and seems to be built well using Gamakatsu 4/0 round bend hooks and powder coated heads . Price was $6.99 so I bought a green shad color in 1/2 oz. to try (most of my chatterbaits are 3/8th oz. so doesn't hurt to addd a 1/2 oz. weight to the collection) . Outside of Z-man chatterbaits (non - jackhammer) , I am a fan of S.O.'s Foggy series vibrating jigs ... Once I try the new H2O vibrating jig I'll give a report .

+1 ... Great option !

Good observations on fly rod fishing for bass ... Yes , a #7 or #8 weight fly rod with weight forward floating #7 or #8 line would be ideal for bass poppers .

Swimming Senko is now $7.49 per bag (TW) while Yum Swimming Dinger is $2.99 per bag ... The Swimming Senko must be that good then .

Yamamoto has the Swimming Senko (4") and Yum has the Swimming Dinger (4") and both look like the would be great swim jig (chatterbait as well) trailers . The big difference is price as the Swimming Senko is $4.50 more per package than the Yum Swimming Dinger ... *Has anyone compared the two used as swim jig trailers ? Is the Swimming Senko worth $4.50 more per bag than the Yum Swimming Dinger used as a swim jig trailer ? ...Thanks for replies for those who tried !

+1 ... I use Power Pro 3 lb. , 5 lb. & 8 lb. braid on UL , L and ML spinning rods for panfish and bass . The ML with 8 lb. Power Pro + leader is my Ned Rig set up .

A Sierra 734C. for 3/8th and 1/2 oz. football jigs works well as they have lighter hooks ... Standard flipping jigs with heavier hooks go with a 735c. of your choice . *Wild card is using a Sierra 734c. with braid main line .

I used to use a fly rod for bass in Florida ... I used a 8' MH rod suitable for a weight forward #7 fly line and only used deer hair poppers with a #8 lb. tippet for bass . I believe something in that range would work for you in a kayak (maybe even a shorter 7'6" MH fly rod since you are in a kayak) .

+1 ... The only super glue worth using (in my opinion) .

*What are you using for the larger Strike King Bull Worms / Zoom Magnum Trick Worms ? ... I can't decide between a 4/0 or even going up to a 5/0 EWG or 5/0 offset round bend for the big straight tails ?

+1 ... I use a Fuego 8:1 for frogging & flipping with #50 lb. braid and believe it is great !

*A favorite of the C-Rig was and still is a French Fry soft plastic (I use Zoom) .

WM Red : Best for clear water , sunshine and around grass as the red flake provides a little contrast to the grass. If no vegetation present I tend to use Green Pumpkin more in those situations .

*Sleeper EWG hook !

Catch every snake head you can and have a fish fry - I hate those things !

For T-Rigging straight tail worms and larger ribbon tails - what is your preferred worm hook you are using with #12 lb. to #15 lb. FC or Co-Poly line ?

*The "gold" standard I see is : 120 yards of #12 lb. Mono line capacity on a bass bait cast reel . I assume that is the typical 100 size reel ?