F14A-B
Super User
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Everything posted by F14A-B
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Yup, ^^ more than likely, but do you fish in the very cold?
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That's about the last thing in the world (freespool) to judge a reel by, the spool still has to be controlled. I wouldn't let that be a decision factor moving fwd on a new purchase, at all..
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And.. I also Strongly agree, lol
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Hmm, lets see what the good book says, nope, no mention of frozen lakes...
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I never use a line conditioner, ever.. I also don't backlash often either.. Once you have become tuned with your rod, reel, line & bait, backlashes don't occur very often. Lets put it this way, backlash is not a issue for me.. I predominatly use Yozuri and CXX , CX... With one setup rigged with carbon..
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I don't think so, I would opt out on braid and stick with a better grade carbon.. In open water, and in most every other case, I choose a nylon or carbon line myself. The only way for you to be sure is to give it a try, I did & don't care about braid much...
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On low pro or round I defiantly want aluminum frame work, the exception is the Ci4+ reels.. Side plates with standard graphite compounds are plenty rigid, I believe Daiwa has a blend that's similar to ci4+.
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Yo for cranking, it's tough line. Tatsu would be great for bottom contact work, but I see no advantage at all for a defense against the chompers of pike, etc. steel leaders is about the only thing that would give you a chance at preventing cut offs. Even then they get kinked pretty easily, I know steel wasn't the question. Hope you don't loose your Jdm baits! Lol..
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You might be doing your self a disservice by not giving the industry leaders ( Shimano/ Daiwa ) a shot, seems you are already searching for a better tool. The graphite side plates, on low profiles or most reels , are not a disadvantage, plenty strong& rigid, maybe a trifle bit heavier. If you don't step out & try other company's product, you most certainly will never know.
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I don't use them in winter here in Indiana, but the rest of the year I will... Jig trailers , and weightless t-rigged.. Swam on a 1/4 0z ball head jig.. Those are the ways I use them. I also use a 3" a lot in the rivers for Sauger,etc..
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Assuming you have a boat, I would pitch/ flip those pads rather than frog it.. Doesn't take much weight to break thru those, That is the way I would fish it. Flip it and keep flipping it.. You will get bit.
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Geez, Missouri looks incompetent.
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I've had this very issue myself, while I still have both types, I only buy insert free now.
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If you can afford hooks, you can afford split ring pliers, your young.. They will last a lifetime and make hook change outs easy.
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Hold on fellas, I'm waitin on the popcorn to get done!! Ok... Next..
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#1 is senko # 2 is trig worm 7" straight or ribbon
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That guide foot looks crooked on the blank to me, it's poor quality work... That's been the case with the Mojo & Rage coming from Mexico , it's well know.. Similar build problems with ***, veritas and other rod lines as well... It will work fine like has been stated.
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It's awesome line! It won't work on a Lews reel, just Shimano! Lol... ( I kid you ) I read your other post,
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While its pathetic to have a new rod delivered like that, it happens a good bit.. I have a falcon with a stripper guide that is offline. Still, sucks to pay your money and it not be near perfect..thing is, if you send it back, will the replacement be any better?
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I got a good chuckle outta that!
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Seems to be a lot of info online as to what color, blade styles, etc..to use in these conditions, But not much definitive info. on what constitutes exactly, murky from stained or even what constitutes clear. Some suggest anything over 30" is clear, I've seen 30' of clear water.. Maybe we should hire a fishing lawyer to write a law on this, lol ..
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Isn't this the truth? I change out line a lot too, a poster a couple months ago claimed I had line OCD, lol... Been a great formula for me since 85!
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It's having a manic episode...
