fishballer06

Unfortunately, crankbaits don't build themselves. Think about how many hands that lure has to go through before you purchase it and tie it onto your line. Someone has to put the bait into the mold machine Someone has to put the weights/rattles in the lure Someone has to paint and clear coat the lure Someone has to put the split rings and hooks on the bait Someone has to test each bait to make sure to swims properly and passes QC Someone has to place each bait into the packaging and seal the sticker seal Someone has to place all the baits into a box for shipping Someone has to be the carrier (USPS, UPS, FedEx) Someone has to unpack those lures for storage Someone has to either hang those lures on a shelf or package them up to ship to you (and repeat earlier carrier step) Keep in mind, none of the above takes in account for R&D, damaged baits in the manufacturing process, lures that fail QC, promotion and advertisements, attending trade shows and events, sponsorship of tournaments and professional anglers, warehouse costs, insurance, etc... And at the end of all of that, you end up with a $4.39 cent wiggle wart from websites like TW.

I haven't seen pictures yet, but it would be nice to have a round bodied John.

+1 for the Eco Pro ThunderSpin. Easily the highest quality under spin jig I have ever came across.

I always closely inspect the entire blank, reel seat, and guides if I end up buying a rod in store where the public can handle the rods. Just recently, a local Gander Mountain is going out of business and my tournament partner found two Abu Veracity's on a great deal and he called me asking if I wanted them. I told him to inspect them and if they looked good to get them for me. He called me back minutes later and said that the one had a cracked blank and they other had two missing inserts in the guides. So let that be a lesson. Inspect your rods thoroughly before buying them from a store.

I've been testing them and I'm working on a write up for Fish Hound (so stay tuned there).

I've tried them all. Sniper is the best bang for your buck out there.

I fish as a co-angler in buddy tournaments. My partners have never complained whenever I throw a buzzbait at first light and put a quick 2-3 fish in the box.

If you see small baitfish at the surface, along the shore, or beside a dock, you can try matching their profile. If the bait fish is 3" long and silverish in color, then anything white/silver at around 3" long is going to be your match. But like others have said, bass will eat anything that looks like food, so don't over complicate things.

The different colors designate the weight of the brake itself. I believe the clear one's are the lightest one's. I have never got into swapping them around, as I have never found a reason to do so (as I mentioned before). I'm not at home to actually compare my two reels for you, but I'm 80% sure the brakes are completely different between the 200 and 70. 70 spool and brakes: 200 spool and brakes:

Call Shimano directly. I'm curious why you think you need extra. I've ran almost all Shimano reels for 20 years and I've never had to replace a brake tab.

Is this the bluegill flash color? I've been debating getting that one, but the website photo isn't the clearest so I've held off.

3 of my guys are outside of the bubble with today's unofficial weights.

They were just talking about how a few of the top guys from yesterday can't even manage to get a limit today, including Ehrler.

Do you have any carbide and a glass jar with a sealable lid?

Can you send me your GPS spots on the Sus?

HA!! I'm referring to those are are counting on guys current weight and standings before the day is even half over.

Weigh in isn't until 3 boys. Still a long day of fishing to go.

I pay more attention to what the pro's are throwing that they AREN'T sponsored by... There are pro's out there who don't have reel sponsors. Take a look at what they're using. There are pro's that are sponsored by crankbait company "X", and yet you see them reel a fish in and you notice brand "Y" in the fishes mouth. A minute later the pro is telling you how great brand "X" crankbaits are and how they helped him catch that last fish. Happens all the time...

Still 2 and a half hours until weigh in's start. Lots can happen in that time boys.

That moderate action will not be ideal for plastics, but it should work well for cranks, spinner/chatter baits, topwaters, etc.

Knowing your budget would greatly help us steer you in the right direction. Without knowing your price range, here's a few of my setups for cranking 10'+ cranks. Rods: Dobyns Champion 705CB and 765CB Dobyns Champion 806CB for the really big stuff St. Croix Avid 7' MH-Mod and H-Mod Reels: Shimano Chronarch 201E5 Shimano Stile 101PG Daiwa Zillion CC 4.9:1

Nope

Japan Tackle has them. http://japantackle.com/casting-reels/shimano/low-profile-casting-reels/reg0000216.html

If it's broken, then sure. Take the $14 credit and get a new 2.0. However, if it's still in working condition, I'd rather spend the extra $14 and have a backup rod.

You can get a brand new Veritas for $79 at any Dick's, Field & Stream, and most online stores like TW. You're a fool to trade in a rod and pay $65 for a Veritas 2.0.