RandySBreth

Carolina rigging- do you worry about all the knots? I was thinking about this the other day when writing back and forth to someone who was interested in using a leader with superlines, and that was their main concern- the knot tying the two dissimilar lines together. I remembered they love to use a Carolina rig, and asked them if they worried about the knots then. The answer was no, because the had used it long enough to have confidence in it. So now I'm wondering - does anyone NOT use the Carolina rig just because of the "weak spots" (knots) required to use it?

Any good weedless hook works for me. I had a problem finding exactly what I wanted a couple of years ago (I hate paying shipping) and made some from a Gammy Bass Bug Stinger hook, the B10S. Since I tie flies I already hard a 100-pack of them. That works, too. ;D

Like most folks chimed in - white. Get one. I like all kinds of "realistic" colors for my spinnerbaits, but if push came to shove and I had to only choose one color, it would be white. White with combo Colorado/Willow blades, to be precise. I've used colored blades for Smallies and Spots, but never really did well with Largemouth's using them.

The swimbaits wouldn't be a bad idea. We don't want you to shy away from learning something new, but I think the Carolina rig is kind of out of place for most of the type of Smallmouth fishing you're talking about. Not that it couldn't work, it's just that other things are probably more efficient.

I'd suggest since you have confidence in spinners like Mepps maybe try spinnerbaits on your new casting rig in the same spots you'd normally use those Mepps on your spinning rig.

Yep. I have found that the "old and slow" IM6 rods are actually pretty much perfect for braid and "cranking lures"- spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, and cranks. They're also pretty great at some types of flyfishing where other guys are using 700$ rods (and not liking them) compared to an old IM6 rod. But that's a different topic.

Something to remember about rigging different plastics on the shaky head - plastics with an action tail will make the rig fall more or less straight, where straight tail worms or whatever give the rig a spiraling fall. So remember that when rigging up. If fish are tight to cover and closer to the bottom I'll rig an action tail worm and cast just past the cover. If I'm just prospecting and poking around I'll use a straight tail worm most of the time.

I've had some of these spinning reels and liked them, especially for teaching newer folks - it is an easier reel for them to learn to use. I find it ironic that many of the same guys who tell you to never use your drag on spinning reels (Backreel only!!!) also hate these types of reels because of the lack of instant anti-reverse. :

If anything, I'd skimp on the rod budget to upgrade on the reel. Spinnerbait fishing is tons of cranking, very, very hard on reels.

I feel your pain, been there and done that with the glass rods. While I don't agree with the theory that you can "pull the lure away" from a Bass that really want's to hit it, I do agree that a softer action is needed when using Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits with superlines. I've used the older style of Bass Pro's "Cranking Stick" and liked them, it would depend on whether or not you like the grip on them. I also have an older Fenwick 6'6" Medium action rod made from 1st generation IM6 graphite, and it's good for smaller lures, so maybe a lower priced standard (not so stiff) graphite stick would be your answer. For example - my river Smallie Spinnerbait rod is a cheap Bass Pro Graphite Series 7' Medium rod for the all those reasons, and also if I break it I'm only out a couple of bucks.

I like to use a 5" Kalin grub for drop shot in the river, but no matter what plastic you go with make sure it's nose hooked, and straight, or you'll get it twisted by the current.

That's pretty much how I do it, to. A little dab of superglue on your knot and it'll hold up to all kinds of abuse. I think it's funny how some folks wouldn't ever think about using a leader on superlines until "The Pro's" finally caught on to it. Late.

I'd go with the FS12 instead of the 10' model. All else being equal, the longer 'Yak will track better. I've fished out of a couple of Sit-in and SOT kayaks, but wound up with a solo canoe, as I float Ozark streams where I portage a lot. I haven't seen a SOT that can carry everything I use and still only weigh 33 lbs. like my Pack. It's not the best in high winds on a lake, but otherwise you might think of solo canoes, too. One of the most popular is the Old Town Guide 119. http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4184250

It depends on where they are at, what kind of fishing you're doing. The White River chain (Beaver, Table Rock, Bull Shoals) has Largemouths, Smallmouths and Spots, and all three kind of have their own niche in each lake, and all do really well. In some of our Smallmouth streams here in the Ozarks they have been displacing Smallmouths, and kind of a problem there. My biggest (certified) Spot came from Table Rock in a tournament, 4-10. Not huge, but did fight like a mother. I've caught hundreds of them in the 2- to 3-pound range, and while they are fun to catch, it seems when it's tourney time you catch the same 14" Spot over and over, when the length limit is 15" Do that ten times in a row during a tournament and you'll cuss them, too! > They are great for fishing with folks new to Bass fishing or kids - you can almost always catch a few spots on a slowly swam grub, or a Powerbait minnow or leech under a float.

You should look at the 7'6" Bass Pro Cranking Stick rods that are telescoping like flippin' sticks like Primus said. I haven't used those particular models, but the ones I have used are great crank rods. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10204844____SearchResults

That's the reason I asked, I thought it was the Do-It bullet, but wasn't sure. I'm thinking about buying the # 412152 mold that throws the same jig but in 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 for finesse stuff. I like what I see!

What mold and hook, if you don't mind saying?

I'd much rather use a Husky Jerk or Rogue than the Thunderstick, if price is the issue. Here on the White River chain (Beaver, Table Rock, Bull Shoals) the water is super-clear, but lots of guys still swear by the Rogue which doesn't really have a high quality paint job, but can be tweaked to suspend perfectly. Another thing- even Pointers don't ALWAYS suspend perfectly as water density changes with water temperature. You'd have to have a lure that was self-regulating with some ballast system like a submarine. I'm sure that's coming next. : In the meantime, take along some stick on weights or lead wire.

I have spinning rigs with everything from 3/8 Fireline (long casts with grubs in open water) to 8/30 Suffix. I use leaders most of the time. I haven't found one braid (or fused, like Fireline) I hate, but sometimes one will work better on a particular reel than another. I will say that one superline most folks can get to work for them on spinning gear is PowerPro, although it it's not really my favorite. Both it and Fireline work better after you've used them a trip or two, so if you spool up up with either of them remember that. Also, Fireline and PowerPro are good one to use a blood knot to tie your leader on with, but the other are better with an Alberto or back-to-back Uni. Andre Moore (think Smallie Beaver) ties fluoro leaders on to his 2/10 Spiderwire with a blood knot, and I don't know how he does it, because I can't get it to work. I told him I think he has three thumbs.

It's designed to suspend in cooler water, so it might sink slowly in warmer water. The only way to know is to cast it out there and see. Oh, and it's never the wrong time of year for jerkbaits. In warm water you jest use floating model or work them faster, and in the cold of Winter you slow down. The Husky Jerk is still a favorite bait of mine, especially the #10 size.

If you found the one you really like, that's really all that matters. Just don't give up too soon if you're on a quest for something specific.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_98153_100002002_100000000_100002000_100-2-2 I read it, I know you were looking for Xtra Fast... TW isn't the only place on Earth to buy stuff...

You aren't looking hard enough if you can't find a 7-foot+ MH Spinning rod. Bass pro has 3 in their higher end rods, St. Croix has several, etc., but you already have that new rod so I guess it's moot point. With superline/leader or straight superline on a medium power/fast action rod you can get awesome hooksets, even at a distance. But you know that!

I think you'll find "medium" divers are the most used by most "crankers" - those lures that run say 4- to 8-feet deep. In my deep clear lakes (Table Rock, Beaver Lake) that is a shallow crank. I still use things like a DT4 on those lakes though, especially in Spring.

I think you could do two things: First, like most have said, a casting rig should be in your arsenal. There are certain lures that just work more efficiently with casting tackle, like spinnerbaits. Don't get me wrong, I like spinning tackle (more on that in a second) but for "cast and crank" lures I like the ease of casting gear. As for getting fish out of cover using spinning gear, you just need a little stouter line, at least to start with. I use a couple of different spinning rigs for skipping docks or fishing around heavier cover, and believe me, a MH spinning rig spooled with 6/20 braid and a 15- to 20-pound test fluoro leader can winch fish out of some wicked cover.