trouttracker

Are you referring to Michigan's Huron river?

Thanks for all the replies. Going to get a spare aluminum prop.

Since I've got a trolling motor with a spare prop should I also have a main outboard spare prop. Expense and storage concerns drive question.

I guess the only thing to do is just wait. I'm considering increasing item quantities to insure I will have enough thru end of season.

I've been waiting for months (~6 mo.) for back-ordered Huddleston Grass Minnows. Recently noticed that lots of other Hud baits are not available either. Anyone know what is going on at Huddleston?

I just bought a Dobyns Extreme DX795C. I haven't used this rod yet so can't provide personal feedback - based my buy decision on Utube, Dobyns, WiredToFish, etc web-site reviews. Has a full grip cork handle, is very light, sensitive and can easily handle 0.5 to 1.75 oz rigs (rated from 0.25 to 2.0 oz). Is known for providing one of the best single flipping/pitching rod choices for handling both light/medium and heavy cover scenarios. Retails for $359 but can be found "used" in very good condition for much less.

Don't want to steal the subject but I have a question about punch skirts. Is it possible to hand make a punch skirt or is the collar and skirt fused?

I have no experience with the Elite 9 Ti but do have with the HDS9 Gen2 and Gen3. If you haven't already done this, begin by installing the latest operating system SW for your HDS7 Gen2. Although I have no experience with the Elite Ti, I do think Lowrance introduced this unit after the HDS Gen2 and this could explain why they are not properly communicating over the NMEA 2000 network.

Although both the 705CB and the 705CBMF Glass rods are constructed with graphite in the lower section and fiberglass in the upper section, the 705CB Glass rod has a much faster tip action extending further toward the middle of the rod. Unless I'm mistaken, Dobyns does not offer a glass spinning rod.

If I'm planning on fishing in both directions before getting out, I will usually opt to wade upstream on the way out since it will be much easier (energy-wise) to wade back downstream.

And yet another vote for AmericanLegacyFishing. Just purchased a couple of Lews BB1 Pros for $140.

I just recently replaced stock bearings and bushings in a new Calcutta CT300D, 4 handle bushings with 4 bearings, 5 internal bearings (spool bearing replaced stock bushing). Unfortunately, I can't tell you if it was better because, after I reassembled the reel, the spool clutch no longer was functional and the spool/gearing was noisy. After many attempts taking apart and reassembling with no change in performance, I went ahead and sent the reel off to a reel repair shop in Interlochen, MI. I asked them to detail what I did wrong so that I would not repeat error on the next maintenance cycle. I guess the moral to this story is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

I think it would be fair to say that it might be possible to locate the thermocline using a fish finder (if there is one - not likely in a shallow pond). Note that the fish finder can only sense surface temperature. Therefore, you might find the thermocline by noting the depth of suspended fish; however, although fish are unlikely to be suspended below the thermocline, they could also be suspended well above it. The only way to judge thermocline depth accurately is to sense water temperature between the surface and the bottom of the water impoundment.

Thanks for the welcome anderb54. I’ve been reviewing the Tranx, Ryobi, Cardiff reels and am leaning toward the Tranx 300.

I’m using 19lb Sunline Defier Amorilo (sp?) and expect to use rod rated swimbait weights (1oz to 5oz). I’m relatively new to swimbait fishing and have not gained much experience with it. I’m aware of the argument that you can just reel slower; however, I also know that it could take many hours to get a big enough fish to show interest in a 1oz to 5oz swimbait. Thus, I’m thinking I may need a reel with <6.4.1 gear ratio.