Puggz

Something a quick test drive would answer. Not all boats are created equal and you won't really know until you get it on the water.

Check out springfield marine and check out the Power-Rise Air Ride Pedestals. I have the 22" version and yes it comes with a clamp to help it resist turning.

Hi everyone! Hope you've all had some great successes this bass season I have a Chronarch 200e7 that I need some help with. I have it mounted on a St Croix Rage (6'8" MH/Fast) which I believe would fall into the Jig/Worm category. I'm struggling with casting/pitching lighter baits such as senkos, ned rigs, and T rigs with either no wieghts or 1/4 or less. If I set the spool tension to the appropriate setting, where would you set the VBS? Right now I have the VBS set to 2 on/4 off and it casts spinnerbaits and heavier jigs really well but I end up with a mess with the lighter baits. When I crank down the spool tension to prevent this then it really reduces my distance. What's the rule of thumb here? More brakes on with light baits or into the wind?? TIA!

Check out the Larson FX series. A F&S but a bit more biased to the F. I've had mine for a few years and so far I like it and the price is right.

We all invest good money on our batteries and lets face it, better electronics will equal a better charge and your batteries will benefit from the advanced charging profiles you get. With that being said, Dual Pro Professional and Minn Kota Precision are the only 2 I'd recommend.

Wet sanding is the last thing you need to do (apologies to the post above) . Wet sanding is what you'd do to smooth out a repair or damage. Its way to aggressive for oxidation and light scratches. All you need is a good cutting polish to remove the oxidation. This process will also remove light scratches and swirl marks. This can be performed by hand but a DA (Dual Action ) polisher will do a better job. Porter Cable make the best one for the $. I use Chemical guys "Boat" products and they are inexpensive and work exceptionally well. This would be my recommendation Give it a good wash, use an aggressive detergent like dawn liquid soap (it will remove old wax buildup) Polish the bad areas with Chemical Guys Marine and Boat heavy compound using a yellow cutting pad Re-polish the bad areas and the remainder of the gel coat with Chemical Guys Marine and Boat Revive polish with an orange polishing pad. Do not polish the underside of the hull. Top and sides only. Protect the polished areas with Chemical Guys Marine and Boat Wet Wax (by hand). Go fishing! Perform steps 1 -3 -4 at the beginning of each season You can use a product like Chemical Guys Marine and Boat quick detail spray during the season to keep it looking good. PM me if you need any specifics. I've been detailing cars, boats, and planes for 35 years There are other great product out there but CG is a one stop solution as they make it all. And made in the USA..

Does any1 have this rod and if you do, what do you use it for?? Just purchased a ST Croix Avid AVC710HMF - 7' 10" Heavy Mod. Fast Telescopic 14 - 30lb 1/2 - 2 oz at a swap meet for 100 bucks. I currently have it paired with a Calcutta 200D spooled with 50lb PP. I already have a dedicated flipping/Punching rod (IMX 954C FPR) and a dedicated Pitching rod (Champion 734C). Thinking that I could use this for frogs, big cranks, big spinnerbaits, and even Pike/Musky applications. Thoughts?

Sigh.. Hmmm, finally an intelligent answer.. Unfortunately I've already purchased and spooled the 65# Just for clarity, for Muskie I tie on a dedicated Leader, usually 100# with hardware using a Polamer. For bass, "eyes and steelhead, I'll be tying on the Floro. Right now I'm using 15#, if I went down to 12, would that help?

65lb Spiderwire Stealth to 15lb Invizx for a leader. The line is spooled on a pair of Tekota 500lcs that I use for trolling (Smallies, Walleye, Steelhead, Pike, Muskie) - I keep the reel spooled with braid, just change the rod and leader as I move from one species to another. Trolling style will include long-lining, in-line planer boards, and downriggers. As the 65# braid is 0.015in / 0.38mm diameter and the Floro is 0.013in / 0.33mm diameter what knot do you recommend?? This will be used on a TDR trolling rod so a small profile know it not necessary as the guides are quite large in diameter. Preference is: Strenght Ease of tying Profile. TIA!

Daiwa Tatula 100 is better All kidding aside, this is what I started with and now I have 10 baitcasters in my inventory. Great price, Great Castability, Easy Castability, Decent quality, and one of the big 3 brand names.

Yes, its amazing what time will do...

All you need is a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol. If you don't believe it, test it on your buddy's rod...... :0

Thanks to all the enablers on this thread!!! I'm now the proud owner of a 7'1", Medium/Moderate Fast made by a company you can't name here. Also grabbed a Ci4 6.2:1 to go with it. Wanted an Alde 6.5:1 but the ridiculousness has to stop sometime!! As bass season in Ontario doesn't start until the 4th saturday in June, I have this and 2 other new combo's to look at... It may be a long spring..

Interesting, I hate PP Slick unless its on a spinning reel... PP all the way tho..lol

I have the same rod. any of the applications you mention work fine. Also large spinnerbaits for Pike do well with it.

I have a spool of 10# tatsu that I won at a seminar. I figured this would be a good place for it..lol

Thanks every1, sounds like just the ticket! I have a lot of success with scatter raps and smaller squarebills (for smallies) in the summer. 10lb Tatsu?

I'm currently deciding on whether to get a Medium Power, Moderate action casting rod or another MH, Moderate. I already have a Gen 1 Mojo bass crankbait rod (MH/Moderate) with at Tatula 100 so I'm thinking something for smaller cranks, spinnerbaits, etc.

You are right, Not all AGMs are created equal... The best ones are "pure lead" AGMs and usually around $300 each.

For a 24 volt system, both your batteries should be identical,. Same model, same age..etc. You'll need at least a pair of group 27s. group 29s or 31s are better. I put a pair of Everstart Maxx grp 29s in my boat last year and I've been unable to kill them in 1 days use with a Terrova 80 iPilot. You get them at walmart but they are mfg by Interstate. Actually, there are only 3 or 4 battery manufactures. These are flooded cell batteries which require a bit of maintenance. If you fish rough water, make sure you have them secured with a top quality battery tray. Nothing destroys a battery more than it's 70 lbs bouncing around in your boat. Also, invest in a good quality on-board charger. They charge faster and treat your batteries better because of the advanced circuitry they use. One last thing, is be diligent about checking electrolyte levels and use only distilled water to top off. If you can afford it, go for AGM's. they are maintenance free but about 3x the price.

Humminbird has a thing called Auto Chart Live on their Helix and Onix units. It will record up to 8 hours on an SD card. They also sell packages called Lakemaster which include charts for most lakes. You can even overlay your Autochart Data onto the Lakemaster charts. I'm no expert on this, and features vary from model to model but may be worth you having a look.

Very true, my PB Pike came on a drop shot rig.. ML w/8lb mono. Took a long time to land the fish and I'm not sure if it survived. To take a point from the muskie guys, they all use HD gear, not because the fish are so ferocious, but more so because they don't want to exhaust the fish which leads to a higher mortality rate. Sure its fun to play with a 5lb smallie on light gear, its just not fun (or safe) for the fish.

Abu Garcia rods are usually rated low. A Med will def. be more MH. Also, St Croix are typically a bit heavier than others, but a more expensive product.

10lb Tatsu or 10lb Big Game if you're on a budget.