jimmyjoe

When you broke those rods, it caused you so much trauma that your mental polarity reversed without your realizing it. Those people were all actually right-handed. You have to walk around backwards from now on, holding a mirror up and looking into it. Then everything will be OK. The only way to re-calibrate your mental state is to buy two new rods. Although cheap rods might do the trick, buying two expensive rods is much more likely to cure you. You believe me, don't you? ??? ??? jj

I believe that every different reel and design has a predilection for a certain line diameter and line flex. That particular line will work best on that reel. And of the lines that I have used, 12 lb. InvizX works best on my Curado 70. I'm not saying it's magic, or the best line, but of the lines that are consistent and easily controlled, InvizX casts the furthest while retaining accuracy. None of my other reels like FC line at all. Go figure. jj

I have a 70xg. I throw 1/8 true weight lures. I will not use line smaller than 11 mil (.011") diameter. Low diameter line might be your problem. Try larger diameter line. jj

What line are you using? jj

I don't maximize the fight, but I have my priorities. I hate to hook a fish and have it escape on the way back in. I'm a shorecaster, so my casts are long. Many times I hook a fish quite a ways out there, and lose it in less than 10 seconds. Infuriating, to say the least. I've gone to longer and softer rods to cut down on that. Longer and softer rods maximize the feel of the fight, but I don't use them for that reason. If I read you correctly, you don't either. I think you are referring to the fact that a softer, slower action is much better at actually acquiring the fish rather than having it spit the hook. It's never fun to lose a fish. What others have said here is correct: don't exhaust the fish. Even when I used ultralights, I didn't prolong the fight. (Good 4 lb. test line has more power over a fish than most people believe.) Good luck! jj

? I wish you two would quit this. You're torturing me! I've sworn off the soft plastic (at least for this upcoming year) and stuff like this gets to me in a weak moment. ? Seriously .... I like buzzbaits. When I was restricted to lighter lines, it was the Strike King Mini Pro Buzz, always black. Now, it's just the Pro Buzz. I never used a trailer body, but I'd use a trailer hook when they showed a tendency to short strike. That, or speed up the retrieve. jj

Lew's has a few reels that are light, although not extremely light. The Hyper Mag (magnesium), the Custom Pro SLP and Team Lite (aluminum) and the Custom Lite SLP (graphite) are fairly light. What I like about Lew's reels is the ergonomics. Admittedly, that isn't important to some people. OTOH, if you're talking about ultralight powers, as in BFS, then that's a whole 'nother ballgame. jj

Congratulations! Nice bass! We hope this is the start of a life-long addiction! jj

A friend used it for slip bobber fishing. Bass (occasionally) were no problem, although he never had to lift them. Pike would just cut the line instantly. I have landed pike with Presso UL rods, where I used leaders, and I see nothing less capable about the Sam Heaton rod. jj

You're correct @WRB ... again. Back then it was just "trilene", not Trilene XL". And the name Royal Bonnyl sure brings back memories! I think we're lucky nowadays to have such a wide range of lines from so many manufacturers, and to have a product that has much better consistency than 60 years ago. jj

The 9 footer will for sure. Good rod. jj

If you're talking spinning gear, it might be the same line I used on my Mitchell 300 in 1963, Trilene XL. Don't remember the test. I remember I bought an auxiliary spool for small-diameter line, and used 4 lb. test for bobber fishing for panfish. If I had to, I could use the same type of setup now as I had then. Naturally, the rod and the reel would both be lighter than the equipment then. Not necessarily better, just lighter. ? jj

I think @Dens228 is right; the majority are less than ten bucks. Cruise thru the TW spinnerbait pages. I like to buy inexpensive spinnerbaits, and have had good luck with J-Mac and Northland. Hoppy's are also good, and they have a few heavier models. War Eagle, already mentioned, is very good, and Terminator used to be, but Rapala recently bought them. I have no idea whether the quality is still high or not. Stanley is good if you want willow-leaf blades in muddy water; they seem to have a little bit more vibration to them than other willow-leaf blades. jj

Yes, I would warrant that all nylon lines for fishing are co- or multipolymers. But they are still all nylons. My uncle worked at duPont, and from what he told me, this entry seems accurate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon jj

If I may inquire, which size Stradic? jj

I don't understand. A line is either nylon monofilament, fluorocarbon monofilament, hybrid monofilament, or not monofilament. Please explain. jj

I'd be very interested to see how resistant it is to twist and wind knots. It might renew my faith in braid .... or it might not. jj

I have a 70HG with either 8 lb Trilene XL or (now) 8 lb. YZH. I can cast Mini Fat Raps and Rebel Super Teeny Wee-r lures OK, but I never measured the distance. As lures in general get lighter and lighter, I worry more and more about accuracy and consistency rather than distance. Small profile forage, like the small profile lures, are found in the margins. So I get the distance I need. I need to add, however, that I use a Daiwa Spinmatic-D casting rod for fishing that light. Model is SMD 702ULFB. jj

I don't guess there's any better reference than that! jj

@riverbasser is right. Do as you please. But consider this: Why would you have 3 DIFFERENT rods? Let's say you want 3 different spinnerbaits on deck, a light, a dark(er) and a shortarm. 3 different rods are going to give you 3 different reactions at a time when you want the greatest accuracy and control that you can get. You need to thumb those 'baits in the water perfectly, and your aim needs to be right on. If you want 3 spinnerbait setups on deck, use the same rod, the same reel and the same line for each. If I remember correctly, there's even a pro that uses the same outlook, but I can't remember who. But the idea is that the consistency will be a LOT better .... especially when you're in a hurry. Just my 2 cents. jj

I never wanted to believe that my Dad was stealing from his job as a road worker. But when I got home, all the signs were there. jj

True. The line-eater is the continual re-tying on lures or end cut-offs due to abrasion, as well as a BIG loss on FC line when you have a bad kink inside a backlash. Misery is miserly without an "l". jj

Man, you're a better driver than I am, that's for sure! ? jj

Do you want to give an old-fart English teacher a heart attack? Please .... use PUNCTUATION! Thank you. Thank you. Thank you very much. jj

I use squarebills around riprap a lot, and I find a faster, stiffer tip helps them clear the rocks. A "dead" or "soft" rod, like a glass one, is not good for snapping the body sideways when the edge of the bill makes hard contact. However, a glass or soft-tip graphite rod is perfect around standing timber, because the softer "shove" of a glass rod brings squarebills around slower, in a more controlled deflection. Slow tips are also better when you use a squarebill like a shallow diver, not contacting anything at all. So it all boils down to whether you're going to fish rocks, timber or unobstructed water. Take your pick. jj