Dave A

Sticking depends on the mold material . The artificial stone molds stick and you will need to lube the prior to injection. Aluminum generally do not stick. Hope this helps

Munkin is correct- you cannot wait tool long between pours or else you will get delams.

I have had good luck with Predator Bass Baits for blank lure bodies .

Check out the flat eye piggyback jigheads on the Stankx site.

Cadman is correct- these should solve your incomplete pour issue. The only thing I would add is to use soft lead.

Love fishing them- at this time of year, they work best for me fished like a blade bait off the bottom. In the summer I like to jump them around by twitching the rod tip during a straight retrieve.

If all you are going to do is add SS wire and bend into a keeper, you might try laying the wire into the same channel as the hook and pour a few. If you get excessive flashing, you can place the mold with hook and wire set up in the mold, into a vise and clamp it closed. the pressure from the vise will form the indentation in the channel that will allow the sides of the mold to fit better. Hope this helps.

Here is a poison tail mold modified for flat eye hooks and a shaft to make spinnerbaits/chatterbaits/etc. Don't be afraid to mod the mold- you can correct it if needed as dsqui has indicated.

I use 10 lb or higher Nanofil with a 12 lb Invix leader, tied with an Alberto knot on spinning setups. I don't go lighter than 10 lb Nanofil because the smaller diameter ones cuts through the leader. I don't fish everyday, and not for more than a couple hours at a time. No issues with wear, but I do reverse the spool at the start of the next season. I did have a problem with direct tie to lures, so started using the fluoro leader.

With a little hardware and a wooden dowel, you can make torpedo like baits or poppers if you like to carve.

I bend mine in a bench vice by clamping it at the spot where I want the bend, then I lean a lever on top of the blade and press it forward and down just enough to get a small bend. I like to place the bend low, right between the holes for the snap. It provides the lateral pop that I like when I snap the rod tip.

Nice! What heads are those?

I've also fished it off the bottom like a blade bait -pull it up for a few vibes, then let it fall back down. I have used 3.5 inch swim baits or curl tail worms as trailers. You won't save any money by making you own, but you will be able to choose you components, colors, etc. check out the major parts suppliers. Good luck!

Try bending off the sprue while the jig head is still in the mold with a diagoal cutter.

Try bending the blade right between the two holes where the snap is attached. I bend mine (the ones from LPO) in a bench vise. The bend is only 5 degrees or so.

Your gift may make all the difference in the world to him. Very thoughtful of you!

I just bought a couple shimano sienna FEs. they retail for 29 and felt smooth, so I gotem. My older Sienna's will go to the grandkids. not sure why you aren't considering shimano, but thought I would mention this reel.

Try using masking tape to create a vent between the sides of the mold. This will help if you are having a venting issue.

Try Lurecraft. Kim advertised some on the Facebook soft plastic baitmakers page.

Check out Richard Praeger or Travis Crosman on FB

You need to decide where to draw the line. If one of the local guys asks for something, it is because he is catching fish on it. I might invest in the mold. Otherwise, no dice.

It is a pretty simple modification. Figure out the layout, drill slowly and check the position often. I like to start with a larger diameter bit and when I am close, use the bit with Diameter that I plan to work with. THe cavity for the 90 degree hook eye will fill with lead, but you can remove that. Hope this helps.

Lifefly-outdoor on ebay if you need quantity

me too- 1/8 oz jighead

I tried them today and here is my feedback: Neat concept, good looking designs. Here are the watchouts: There is a minimum shrink to the material as expected. What was not expected is the rough ends that result at the cutlines. Seems like it will be fairly durable, but only time will tell. THe water must be boiling or the shrink will not occur or be partial.. Partial shrunk skin will fully shrink once subjected to boiling water. It will only partially shrink around lips, so if you bait has a lip you need to stay behind it.