Wayne P.

The Palomar is OK for fluorocarbon IF it is tied correctly. I use the uni-uni knot connection for the leader and the uni-knot for the hook.

Copy/Paste the picture/s from your USB drive to your desktop and then try to attach them to a post.

I fish wacky rigs a lot. I have two medium heavy action 6'6" spinning rods with size 2500 reels for Trick worms with 30# braid and 20# fluorocarbon leader. Four medium action 6' spinning rods with size 2000 reels for finesse worms-two have 30# braid with 20# fluorocarbon leader and two have 20# braid with a 20# fluorocarbon leader. One 6'6"medium heavy action baitcaster for Trick worms with 30# braid and 20# fluorocarbon leader. I also have 3 spincast outfits with 5'6"' medium action rods, 20# braid and 20# fluorocarbon leader for novice anglers that may fish with me. I have several brands. Some are less than that price range, some are in that range and some are over that range. For other weighless plastics like Flukes and Senkos, I use several baitcasting rigs with 14#, 17# and 20# fluorocarbon or 30# braid depending on the cover.

The red lable 3X baits are great for Carolina rigging.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

I prefer the XPS that I have, but on another website, someone mentioned it's recent failures and another replied that the recent batch is a different formula and not as good. I don't have any of this year's issue to compare. Maybe Johnny Morris got Berkley to repackage the Vanish for his brand label.

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/wiring/

Lew's Speed Stick with #2 action and 5'6"

Any superline is "affordable" since it lasts for years.

I still use them for spinnerbaits/buzzbaits/Chatterbaits mostly and have 5 spares. I'm over 65 years old and they still work for me. I prefer the ones with the old Lew's handles before the blank thru mfg process took over, they have more of a offset and are more confortable for all day use.

I was considering the G3 line of aluminum boats until I found out about the wood decks-no thanks.

The best performing chatterbait is the Chatterbait. Use it with braid to get the most vibration. Some recent issues had less than quality components but for short term use, they are still the best. Most knock-offs with the blade attached directly to the jig head hook eye also have good vibration. The Pure Poison is a next best choice since the split ring is somewhat enclosed so the blade can strike the jig head. The knock-offs assembled wth the split ring connection are not as good in performance as the extra flex in the joint kills the vibration some. The model with the clip-on blade (don't remember the brand) can't be trusted in case a large bass takes it.

I have some Spiderwire Ultracast Invisi-Braid and invisi it isn't. It is not as dramiaic a white as the Fireline Crystal and is not as stiff.

For the swimming frogs, use the Gammy G-Mag Oversize hook. No extra weight is needed with that hook to keep the frog up-right. Its the top frog and hook in the picture. Don't put the hook bend inside the frog, just put the bend between the legs and skin hook the point in the back.

For the shallowest draft, get the widest, non-deep v-hull aluminum.

I have the clip-on of that brand. I did not find the fit-over model that would work with my frame so I got the Fit-Over brand in the amber and gray lenses. The clip-on works OK but not well for sight fishing. For serious site fishing, I use Rx polarized sunglasses with side shields. I can't use the wrap around type frames due to my degree of correction.

PM sent

For both the Senko and Swim Senko, the Skip Gap hook is the best performing hook I have used for Tx rigging. Add the Yamamoto Grub Guard and both will come thru vegetation a lot better.

Thanks for the link BigBassGuy. I hadn't checked the Merc site recently since I was told that the sale of those was "delayed" with no impending release date.

I didn't notice it, but I replayed the show to check the prop. By its shape, it looks like the prop used on the HO model of the old OMC motors. That may be the mystery Safari prop that was supposed to be marketed earlier this year.

I prefer to do the fishing and catching and don't feel the need to have some creature do the fishing for me. Artificial is my choice.

I use them and the fish seem to like them. That is good enough for me.

Just another friendly reminder, DO NOT discard line anywhere, recycle it.

I only retie when it gets too short from hook retying or if it gets roughed up. I start at about 4'-5' and replace at about 2 1/2'. I use the uni-uni knot connection.

When I need a wide gap hook for thick baits, I open the bend a little to expose the point more for surer hooksets. I also use the superline model because the wire is heavier and has less give which may be a cause for lost fish due to flex. The longer the total length of the hook wire, the more flex it will have.