Wayne P.

If I was going to make that choice, I would wait until the accessory side scan units for the Lowrance HDS are for sale after this summer to see if they are equal to or better than the Humminbird SI technology.

I cannot find any reference in recent years where a oar/paddle is required to be on a power boat especially on a bass boat with a gas motor and an electric motor. Can any of you find where that requirement is stated as a law or even a Coast Guard recommendation? Many years ago there was requrement for a "secondary means of propulsion", which usually ment a paddle, for a mechanically driven boat.

Add wacky rigging to the list of presentations for the Zoom finesse worm. I use up hundreds of them each year that way.

While the side imaging is working at 455 kHz, the vertical 83 kHz and 200 kHz are also being transmitted. I haven't seen any instructions on how to turn off those two frequencies and only have the 455 kHz operating. You can choose to view each of those frequencies separately or on a split screen, but that is all.

BriBass, yep I do wait for it to slowly sink. That is why it works so well. Is there a reason you think that it needs to get to the bottom in a hurry?

BriBass, I was using a Zoom Finesse worm. I usually use a 2/0 Octopus hook with them but used the Weedless Finesse Wide Gap hook just to check the hook performance. A wacky rigged finesse worm will out produce the fat worms (Senkos and their knock-offs) by a wide margin. My intent was to catch fish and hook test at the same time. My only reservation with the Weedless Finesse Wide Gap hook is getting the worm back on the hook after it slides up the line when fighting the fish-that procedure does a lot of damage to the small diameter worm. I caught several bass with the Octopus hook rigged weedless wacky also plus a few more with a Chatterbait.

Two transducers operating at the same frequency will cross-talk no matter what brand they are and they don't have to be close together.

It's pretty simple and there are two ways of using the tubing. First, cut a piece of tubing about 1/4" in length and slip it only on the eye of the trailer hook. Then impale the trailer hook on the spinnerbait hook thru the tubing and trailer hook eye. That method will hold the trailer hook in a somewhat rigid position. Second, cut a 1/4" piece of the tubing and put the trailer hook on the spinnerbait, then impale the tubing on the spinnerbait hook buy sticking the spinnerbait hook thru the side if the tubing instead of thru the tubing hole. That will allow the trailer hook to swing freely. Some may use the tubing slipped over the spinnerbait hook thru the hole in a shorter version like an O ring, but it may come off. Some even make a trailer hook keeper out of punched out plastic bottle parts with a paper hole punch that looks like small discs.

Jeff H, I used the 4/0 Gammy Weedless Finesse Wide Gap yesterday with wacky finesse worms to check out their hooking ability. They did very well (a lot better than the 2/0), but the weedguard broke after about 30 bass were caught.

Jeff, Gander Mt. was where I got mine.

Jeff, I noticed recently that the Gammy Weedless Finesse Wide Gap hook is now available in 3/0 and 4/0. I got some 4/0 to try with Senkos. The space between the hook point and hook eye is large enough to maybe get better hookups than the previous max size of 2/0. The HP hooks will work better if you open the bend a little so the hook point is not pointed at the hook eye and the same for any other hook models using the Kahle design.

Yesterday and today I caught them with a Senko, spinnerbait, Chatterbait, Trap, King Shad, finesse worm, and a Trick worm.

5/0 Gammy Skip Gap hook for Tx rigging 3/0 Gammy Octopus hook for wacky rigging

A trailer hook is to catch bass that won't commit to taking the spinnerbait near the blade. Putting the grub on the trailer hook is just an addtional attractor to try to make them commit to eating it. It also gives it more bulk so it can be worked slower.

I frequently put a curlytail grub on a trailer hook and add it to a spinnerbait.

The simplest and easiest to install is this: http://www.fishing-catalog.com/jack_plates/pt-130.htm

I've used the clips with cranks, twisted wire spinnerbaits, and lipless cranks with line up to 50# test catching bass up to 8# with no problems with performace. They are somewhat difficult to use with cold fingers though.

To the split ring. It wouldn't make any sense to use the clip on the body eye with the split ring in place and it wouldn't fit if you wanted to.

Yes, it is electrical heat shrink tubing in the 3/8" size. I don't heat it to make it smaller, some may want a tighter fit and may do so. The small piece can be reused numerous times.

I occasionally use speed clips with Traps and do not remove the split ring. I can't tell any difference in performance with the clip or tying to the split ring. I only use the clip if I carry a limited amount of rods and will not have several rods rigged with different weight Traps.

I've never had one "cling" to any of mine. I add a mono one in some cases on hooks for Tx rigs with braid to keep the braid from slipping thru the eye gap.

Waste of time and money-----do it this way: The bottom rig gets better hookups

Yes, it will affect topwater lures. It will make them more responsive, won't drag the front under due to sinking, and make hooksets more secure, plus will improve the odds of getting the fish in the boat. Do I use braid for topwaters- YES

Several of my most successful days bass fishing was due to hearing the splash of baitfish being chased on the surface more than 50 yards away. Not only do I not have music on my boat, I don't even like having a person with me that talks a lot.

I wouldn't have an electric steer. I've used them on other person's boats and they are too slow in changing direction and use up too much battery power doing so.