Quarry Man

I agree. The only reason i think this is a good idea is because my friend did something similar to a smaller hull and it handles waves ok, so a bigger boat would do even better. It would be a shame to have that happen though!

This question(s) is very controversial and I expect many different answers with no correct one. I am 16. My parents have 2 houses, one on a small (66 acre) lake, and one not on the water. The lake house is in NE PA. My primary residence is in SE PA. Both are within driving distance to launch able lakes, however most are electric only, with several limited hp lakes. I have a bunch of yaks and cones and stuff at the lake house. not really meant for fishing. I also have a 10' jon that i have yet to register. Will do that soon and add a small casting deck. I only use it there and water is never really rough. I also have a 14' vhull with 2 55 lb thrust motors. I am adding a casting deck to it. I will bring this boat up there and to other places. In the future, id like to live somewhere in NY or the North, where i can get out on the water. Id like to own a real fiberglass bass bot, an in between boat, and also have my 14' boat. I am splitting the costs of the 14' boat with my grandfather (lives in NJ). I am also trying to get my dad into fishing more. I may end up leaving the 14' with my dad or grandfather when i go to college. My car will be able to tow a smaller boat like the one i have. What i am asking is, how long should i wait to get that in between boat? I am think a 16-18' aluminum boat with a 50ish hp motor. This boat can handle bigger water and smaller water. I am in no financial position to buy a fiberglass bass boat right now. 100% out of the question (unless free). I plan on bringing the between boat to college with me. When should I buy that boat, and what kind of boat would fit my needs best. I am on a budget, but not in the market right now, just planning ahead. Thanks

I am in the process of adding a casting deck to my 14' boat (1968 Sea King). I want a deck that is 3" below the top of the boat. I am thinking of using an aluminum angle of some kind every two feet, starting at th transom, and every 2' until i near the bow, have another one. then, i will run a 2x4 accross the width parallel to the transom. A total of 7 beams and 17 angles. The horizontal beams will be supported by vertical 2x4s notched out to the boats ribs. Will the aluminum on the sides of the hull be too thin for the Screws to support the angles and casting deck? Think of a piece of paper, stabbed by a pencil and ripping the pencil through the paper. That is what i want to avoid. Ripping the boat hull with rivets and screws because the aluminum is too thin.

I recently bought my first bow mount trolling motor. It is a Minn Kota Powerdrive V2. I find the foot pedal annoying. does anyone else? is there a way to get the normal front back ones?

What about major craft or Daiwa Tatula ml rods?

Probably going to be my next reel purchase. will work great on a 6'7" M F Omni Black. Will spool with 15lb braid or 12 lb floro for jerk baits and senkos near docks.

is this the st croix avid casting 6'6" Medium fast? for 200?

I was wondering if you guys like to stick with the same rods and reels, either brand or specific line of rods or reels by a particular company. I use mostly Daiwa reels, with the exception of a Shimano spinning (Ci4+) an Quantum casting (plan to sell). I really like the stradic. May end up buying more in the far future. As far as rods go, I have used mostly cabbalas tournament zx rods and *** NV and OMNs. I also have a carrot stix. For line i use power pro and suffix 832 for braid, bps mono, and seaguar floro. Will stick to those line choices. Also, i will likely stay with the aiwa reels for casting. I like a lot of rods, particularly ones with cork. I began with 100$ rods and 175ish $ casting reels. Now I have begun to buy more expensive gear. I notice a difference and plan on getting fewer but nicer setups, that i know ill use. I have: 7'1" ML Spinning (drop Shot) 7' M Spinning (Swimbaits) 7'1" M MOD Casting (Trebles) 2x 7'3" MH (Texas and all-around) 7' xh casting (jigs) looking to add a bfs setup, 6'6" rod for jerks and docks 7' mh for spinnerbaits and swim jigs 7'6" (m)h for flipping what rods should i add next? what am i missing? how do you like to buy rods and reels? Is it ok to stick to daiwa casting? And can i use various rods? should i stick to the 100 $ rod and 200 $ reel casting and 200 $ rod 100 $ reel spinning rule? or should i get more expensive stuff thats good quality? What else?

What brand

looking at these to reels for future purchases. What is the difference, which techniques work better with the different reels, is one better? What is the difference between the type r and regular tattle. I have a zillion tws, arachnid, and tattle ct, a a reference.

what line should i put on my 3000 stradic with a ml rod? and what about my 1500 size tournament zx with a m rod? looking at 10 15 20 lbs

Maybe i should put that on my stradic with a 7'1"ml and then get a yellow braid for my other reel where i watch the line?

Is that true?

Just removed my old casting deck. it was in ok shape, but starting to rot and not enough storage. Looking for simple ways to make my casting deck. All advice wanted. no matter how dumb it may sound, please share. I want something that i can build myself, using wood if possible, and at a limited budget of around 400. thanks it is 14' long. i can give other specs if needed. v benches have been removed, but i can't upload a picture for some reason. i will pm if you want more details.

I have had great success with both power pro and 832. looking to add red pp and ghost 832 on two spinning setups.

Looking at white braid vs red braid what do you think is best for watching my line?

I always use a leader. currently use a 6 lb invisx leader, 8 lb invisx leader, or 10 lb cxx leader. will likely try tatsu in 8 and 10 lbs around christmas time next season.

Yeah, i just forgot to ask the question. I would like for my stuff to match, but it is not the biggest factor. Ive "red" that red braid disappears earlier in the water column, but i would expect it to have good visibility in situations that I watch the line for strikes. This is half of my fishing, when i skip docks or fish quarries. the other 1/4 i sight fish and with the bass eat the bait. that doesn't matter with line color obviously. the other remaining 1.4 is feeling the bite in deeper water, where color is not important. I need new line, so why not make it look good too?

I am currently getting ready for a tournament on June 18th. I am looking to spool good braid on my 3 spinning reels. I like PowerPro, which I can get at Dick's Sporting Goods. I currently have a 1500 size reel with 75-100 yards of 20 lb braid. It is rated for 100/6 (mono). It is a white reel. I have a Stradic ci4+ that is a 3000 size rated for 8/150 (mono). I use the 1500 on a 7' M with single hooks. That is why I want 15-20 lb white Powerpro. I want to put half a 300 yd spoil of 10 lb red braid on the Stradic. Will be used with a ml. My third reel will get extra or leftover line.

This is very helpful! i like the OMN and a nasty, looks solid for 225$ rod reel line

where are you located? I suggest looking in store.

Put carp in there!

there goes my money for a new boat!

rubber bands from braces work too and are free

reaction strike chunky shad strike king rage tail swimmer keitech swing impact fat