FrnkNsteen

That's how I do it too if the spool has openings. If not, I put a loop in the end of my line and feed it through my line guide, the back feed the line through the loop to create a lasso (for the lack of a better term) that I can insert the spool through and cinch it down. I do this with mono mainline, or backer line for braid, so it cinches down on the spool and doesn't slip. I've never had an instance of line slipping on the spool with this method.

I've got a GLX 783c MBR that I had a Alphas SV on tossing Fat Ikas. I didn't really like the feel of the Alphas on that reel seat for some reason. I currently have a '18 Bantam MGL on there now throwing a Minimax bladed jig and I REALLY like that setup. I currently have the Alphas on a 6'10 Bird Dog rod they recommended for jerkbaits. Bird Dog is a local startup rod company here in southern Indiana. I kind of liked the feel of this rod. The Alphas feels good on there and the rod has a fairly soft tip that transitions pretty quick to a nice back bone. I'll try that from your suggestion. I've heard the Alphas does great for skipping. I had been using Tatula SV's on a Daiwa "Andy Montgomery" skipping rod I bought on here from A-Jay and a Zodias rod I have

This is where I'm at too! 😁 Don't know that I've got it down enough to have a favorite. Currently it is whichever one I happen to get lucky with at the moment. Much better skipping with a spinning rig but working on it!! There was a video Andy Montgomery did for a show where he said if you get a good skip and slip it in under where you want,... it just feels like a win!! That's about where I'm at!! 😁

I've not had the opportunity to pick up a Core reel yet, but I do have a Scorpion Metanium MG7 I picked up used. I believe it is the JDM step-sister to the Core. I have it on a Dobyns Champion XP 734 throwing Buzzbaits and I REALLY like it too. Too hard to narrow down to just one reel!!!

For me,... Right now it would be a tight race between my Bantam MGL and an older TD SV103 I have. Both are comfortable, smooth, and cast great! Hard to choose between those two. Lagging right behind is a Shimano 201E7 I have on a Spinnerbait rig. That thing is smooth as butter and casts great. Currently have it on a Levante Diablo Spec R and looks and performs great.

I haven't done it a lot, but on the few times I did, it really depends on what I am trading in. More popular items get a higher percentage. I've traded in Ducketts and only got about 25-30%, but figured that was better than keeping rods I didn't like sitting in the garage unused. To be honest, I bought those Ducketts for 40-60% off when Gander Mountain was closing down, so I didn't think I did too bad. I traded in a few Dobyns Kaden rods and got about 50-60% of what I paid and felt that was reasonable. Got those rods when ALF had Do yns on sale for 25% off, so again,... Not that bad. I put it towards a Zillion that I WOULD use instead of the rods sitting on my rack gathering dust. The nice part is that I live close enough that I can go there as well instead of having to deal with shipping rods. Bottom line is you have to watch what you paid vs what you get and see if what you get is better than sitting unused. If you use them,... Maybe not, but if you don't,... Maybe it is.

Baits and lures,.... Absolutely!! I've bought lots of different stuff, or tried new companies I hadn't heard of before. I've learned quite a bit from the people on here. As for rods and reels,... I don't know that I'd say anyone "Convinced" me to buy, but definitely got me to check them out after their recommendations. In some cases I liked them and bought them. Other times I just didn't like the feel or something and passed. I trust the judgement of people on here and will definitely take what people say into consideration and go check things out, but then it has to feel right to me though too.

A definite no from me. I have never spent more than $300 for a rod,.... Or reel for that matter, and likely never will. In my opinion, the rule of diminishing return really starts to kick in and I just don't see the bang for the buck above that range. I've got a few rods and reels that run above that price point, but have picked them as good sale prices, seconds, or used in awesome shape. In every instance, my opinion was that I was glad I didn't pay full retail price. Don't get me wrong,... I like my Zillion, my Bantam, St Croix Legend Extreme, Legend Elite IMX Pro, GLX and others, but there just gets to be less of a gain as the price continues to climb. There is a LOT of nice gear in that $200 - $300 range these days

Not much to add here, other than that I have mostly switched to tungsten for many of the same reasons mentioned above. I do still have some brass around too and remember fishing the "Brass n glass" that Tom mentioned. The majority of the tungsten I have came from Sieberts as well

I did too, but the o-rings that came with them don't last long before breaking so I stopped using them. Are you having that issue? I don't have that issue with the Fuji ones shown above. I think the Amazon ones just have cheap crappy o-rings

I look at it this way... How much will it save you towards the replacement?.... Do you like it more than that amount? In other words, is the value of it to you after the repair more than what they will give you towards the replacement? If so, then keep it.

Thanks Tom,... Didn't know that. Kind of explains the comments on the Duckett Rods then too about being "White Carrot Stix". That said... Mine are still working and have been fine. Sounds like they are pretty risky though!

Mine either. My buddy and I each have our old original Carrot Stix from back around that same time period and both are still going fine. Mine is a 6'6" M/MF that I have a Daiwa T3:on throwing Rocket Shads and small cranks. It has been fished hard and is still fine. I also had a 7' MH/F in the later "Wild Stix" that had the black EVA handle. I fished that a ton and have since given it to my grand-daughters boyfriend who is still using it. In my opinion,... In all situations the truth lies somewhere in the middle and your results may vary. Some people break lots of rods and other rarely break any. I understand that there has been a LOT of reported breakage though, so I would be hesitant to spend much on any of them. I can only say that mine have been fine.

Same

I do not have any experience with Majorcraft rods other than hearing people talk about them on here, but I believe the size, power and actions you called out sound reasonable. The only difference that came to mind to me is maybe bumping up from a medium light spinning rod to a medium. Don't get me wrong, I like my ML spinning rods too, and have as many of them as I do M action. My thought is if you only have one, a ML might be a little light for some situations. As for the reels,... It's hard to go wrong with a new Zillion and a Stradic!! Two very strong performers with a lot of good reviews from owners. Myself included! Good luck and have fun!

I have never been bit off by northerns or muskie with any steel leaders. I think the ones I have typically used are the 30lb. That being said, I used some 20lb flouro on a bladed jig recently and it held up pretty good too, but no guarantees. If it catches a tooth right, I assume it could still cut it.

I have started using rod socks more so I don't wrap my rods as often as I used to, but when I did, I would grab the line about midway between the lure on the hook keeper and tip and wrap it until snug then hooking it over the middle line guide. When unwrapping, if I couldn't just unhook the lure and spin it off the rod, I would follow the line up from the lure to the middle eye (following it around the rod) then unhook from the middle line guide and unwrap in a reverse direction from how I wrapped it. It usually wasn't bad and only took a few seconds. I was mainly wrapping them to keep from tangling in the rod locker of the boat.

I've got quite a few more reels than rods. Rods are all full and know I've got around 10-12 up on the hobby bench. Casting reels that is. Don't think I have any extra spinning reels.

My initial thought, since everything mentioned are moving baits, I would want something medium heavy with a slightly slower, more moderate action. At first I was thinking a Dobyns Sierra 734 with a SLX or SLX XT if Shimano, or a Fuego if Daiwa. For a bit more on the Daiwa,... Maybe step up to a new model Tatula 100. Other options at the rod, due to comments being made due to Dobyns being bought out might be maybe a Falcon Lowrider or look for a deal on a Megabass Levante. Any of those options should put you in the ballpark of $300 for the combo, give or take a bit.

That's a good choice. I left a elaztech Ned bait on a jig head over the winter and when I looked at in the spring, it had completely eaten away the hook. It was a Zman Ned jig and Ned bait. The whole bend of the hook to just past where it exited the bait was completely rotted and fell apart in my hand. I learned not to leave them setup for extended times.

^^I'm in this camp with Mike^^ Springtime when the water levels are up and typically dirty, or even summertime after heavy rains and the water is a little dirty, ... large thumping Colorado blades on a slower reel work for me. My two largest bass have both come this way. Clearer water with smaller Willow blades get a faster reel from me. My two main Spinnerbait setups I REALLY like right now are a Daiwa TDZ 100ML "US Trail" on an odd Lews Custom Speed Stick "Spinnerbait" rod with that different Gclutch reel seat. That US Trail just melts away into that reel seat for me and my favorite for casting large Colorado blades spinnerbaits in and around trees and stumps. The other is an old Shimano Curado 201E7 the I put on a Megabass Levante Diablo Spec R. That old metallic green E7 is smooth as butter and looks/feels great on that Levante for running Willow blades spinnerbaits on a little faster retrieve. My advice in newer, still available reels is look for the smoothest reel you can find at the price point you choose. A 6 to 7 speed reel typically works well. It's up to you to decide if you can adjust your default reel speed, or if you need to choose a gear ratio that fits the speed you fish most.

In my opinion, both the 2017 version in the older CT style frame, and the 2020 version in the smaller frame are a little over braked, which tends to reduce casting distance. BUT,.... I don't see that as a negative because I believe THAT is why they have gotten to be SOOO well known for being great skipping and pitching reels. They offer heavy braking and great cast control for times when you are trying to pitch and skip in, around, and under obstructions and cover. That being said.... That's also why I don't reach for them when I am looking for techniques where I want extended distance. At those times, I typically reach for my Shimanos because, in my opinion, that is where they shine! My rule of thumb,.... Techniques where I want good cast control for close combat casting ( i.e. Pitching, Skipping, backhand casting, left and right hand roll casting) .... Daiwa. They are just more forgiving for those things. Techniques where I am casting for distance and reeling or dragging on return (Swim Jigs, Spinnerbaits, Buzzbaits, Ploppers, Football Jigs, Carolina Rigs) .... Shimano. Don't get me wrong... If you are a Daiwa fan, they have options for good casting (Tatula Elite, Zillion with SV Boost, Tatula 100 and 80), but if that is what I am looking for, My first choice of available options just isn't going to be a Tatula SV.

I don't use it for bank fishing, but I bought a couple "Extreme Rod Bag" carriers to use to transport my rods to Canada since we aren't using my boat this year. They hold up to about 5 or 6 rods with reels on them. Rods can be up to 7 foot. It says up to 7.5ft, but I tried a couple 7'3" and they didn't fit. I tried to copy a link to them, but if it doesn't work, search for "Extreme Rod Bag" https://rod-bags.com/products/canvas-series

Personally,.... I would stick with what you have and start setting aside money for a entry level boat or a nice kayak that can get you off the bank and out on the water. You've got a nice group of rods and reels there and bank fishing is great, but with the investment you've made in those setups, you obviously have an interest and I would focus on finding a way to get ON the water instead of if next to it. Then you can continue to expand from there depending on need and the areas you are fishing.

Ok,... So this is a weird question, but I have had it happen to me and it made we worry something was wrong until I realized what it was... You said it only happens when cleaning and you have the line taped down. Is it possible to you have a bit of the tape or the tag end of the line extending out when you spin or reel the spool and it is clicking on the frame??