redmexican5081

I placed an order to ship to NH, there was no sales tax. My company sells and ships items to states with sales tax and we (pass it on to the customer) have to pay based on where it is being sent. I would have to believe that the new laws regarding internet sales to states that have a sales tax are being put into place. Any item sold/shipped to a state that has a sales tax is going to be taxed accordingly.

I cleaned out an EBay seller of one specific type of topwater that I found in the bargain bin at Walmart. I paid significantly more per each. I was having a great topwater season and lost my one and only to a pickerel and had to fish something else for a bit and wasn't getting the same results. Eventually I found it floating near where I lost it but I won't be caught without one again.

You could look at Garmin. The echomaps come with a transom mount and TM mount in the box.

BPS has a 2 day flash sale going on. Shimano Sedona FI/Cabela's Fish Eagle Spinning Rod and Reel Combo for $40. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/flash-sale#facet:&productBeginIndex:0&facetLimit:&orderBy:&pageView:grid&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:&

The hook pictured is a swimbait hook. An aberdeen hook is typically the J style hook with barbs on the shank used in panfisihing. As to why you hooked but did not catch, there are countless reasons why a fish gets off. The hook might not have penetrated, the bait might have slipped down, the hook could be dull, if you were close to the end of a cast there might have been too much slack when you set the hook, too close to the end of reeling in and you might not have enough give in your rod or line and rip the hook out, etc. etc. etc.

I know this is just a general idea again but the NHFG website has a map showing locations. If you click on the symbols when you are at a place you might want to check out, it gives the type of ramp, restrictions, GPS location, etc. and also gives you a link to the depth map of the lake/pond if one is available on their site. The depth map also lists the fish species you would expect to find in the body of water. https://www.wildlife.state.nh.us/maps/boatfish/index.html

House battery is for my electronics, lights, livewells, radio, etc., I planned on powering everything off of a battery that is not connected to the motor. Currently, everything powered from the dash comes back to the negative bus bar under the dash and then goes on a 6AWG back to the negative post of the house battery. When the switch is in "jump" mode the positive terminals would be wired in parallel and I am assuming the negative terminals would need to be as well. Doing this would give the house battery a connection to the grounding wire that connects to the motor block as well. Yes this cable would be ~24" long. This is what I was thinking as well but I know some starters can pull 100+ amps and didn't want to under size the wire.

I recently decided to rewire my boat. I got a blue sea systems m-series dual circuit plus battery switch so I can switch the house battery and starting battery on with the same switch. This switch also gives me the ability to link both batteries together on the off chance I need to jump the starter off the house. I sized all my wiring for the house side based off the maximum amp draw for my console electronics and came out with a 6AWG cable from the switch to the console. I also planned on making the lead from the house battery to the switch out of the same 6AWG wire but before I cut the wire to length had the realization that on the chance I ever do use the jump feature or the switch, I need to account for the amp draw to the starter as well. I have been all through the service manual that came with the motor, 60 HP 1983 Johnson Seahorse, but nowhere in it can I find the amp draw of the starter or even what size wire is recommended. Does anyone know what this starter draws or what size wire I should be using? Second question, but linked to the first, should both the house and starting battery negative terminals be hooked together and routed to a common ground? The starting battery right now has a grounding lead attached to the motor.

I ended up going with the promariner sport 20plus, 3 bank. It will be my first onboard charger and I got it for just over $100 so if it craps out and only lasts a season I'm ok with that

I doubt you will have any fish spawning yet. They may be staging but the water should still be too cold for them to be on beds. The lake bottom question I can't help with because I've never fished it, but google earth shows a sandy looking bottom by the launch on the south end and lily pads (shallow soft bottom?) on the north end.

Thanks for the heads up, this one worked on a new onboard charger. The 40% didn't

Those are some beauties. Sure is dark in those pictures. Seems like night time is already producing some quality fish.

I'd bet your carbs need to be adjusted. If it they were messed with while on the muffs it will idle good and rev fine in the driveway and when first starting on the water but after a run where the motor heats up to running temps, the air/fuel mix will be too lean and it will bog down, sputter and die. I had this problem on my 83 Johnson. I took my mechanic out on the water with me and showed him what was happening, he fixed it with a screwdriver for a 30 pack and the days fishing trip. It smokes more while on the muffs now but never misses a beat on the water.

Slight fork in the tail and the jaw is only to the eye, I'd guess LLS based on the NHF&G website descriptions. Either way, nice fish

If 2d is working above 10 then I don't think these is any issue, dv is used while going slow

Mr Twister 6" phenom worm in black Berkley Power worm 7" in black

Wind and current in the same direction, fish the upwind side of the points, depth varies depending on bait like WRB says. Wind and current in opposite directions, I pick the sheltered coves and fish the shoreline cover.

Anytime I used bluegill as a kid, before I realized to is not legal in my state, when we set the hook the intent was to rip it out of the gill and get it stuck in the bass

Was it peeing before you shut it down the last time you used it? How long ago was the last time you used it? This could be as simple as the pee hole being plugged or could be something more like your impeller not working.

How long is it from the floor drain to the rear seats? I'd build a box down the center if the length works.

Is that transducer mounted backwards? I believe on a lowrance transducer the wire comes out the front.

I would mount them up the way you like. Worst case is you have to run one on 800kHz and the other on 455kHz to eliminate interference with the side and down views. I'm not familiar with what Lowrance is using for 2d but Garmin uses 200kHz. My personal belief is that the chances that you will get interference between the transducers is very minimal. Think about all the times you have been using them when another boat passes by. Does your display show interference then? Sometimes there may be but I would venture to guess that the majority of the time there is none. The frequency the transducers work at provided by the manufacturer is the middle of the range. 455kHz by Garmin can be anywhere between 425 and 485. The crystals used to generate and receive the sound waves are very specific at the frequency they vibrate at. They won't pick up signals from other transducers that are using a different frequency.

Do you have waypoints turned on for viewing?

Interference is possible if they are using the same frequency or very similar. Do you run the 2 transducers now at the same time? If you do, and you don't get interference, then I would assume you should be OK to run them both after you move them.

Your gut will tell you almost all you need to know in many situations. 2k is a decent price for both you and him. I would definitely ask him about the electrical systems if/when you see him in person like has been suggested so you know how everything works. A test ride would be nice but there isn't much besides a huge hole or massive crack that would turn me away. Rivets can be bucked if needed to stop minor leaks. I had a jon boat at camp that would leak a bit in the summer if we left it upside down for too long in the sun, we always joked that it needed the cool water to help contract the aluminum and tighten things up.