BigAngus752

Excellent point

It's not about the cover as much as it's about where the cover is located. The bass will relate to structure under the water by season and weather. Figure out where the fish are likely to be on that particular day (on flats, close to deep water, on their way to shallower water or on the way to deeper water, etc.) and then go look for cover that is in those areas. A stump in a foot of water in the back of a shallow flat that looks identical to a stump in a foot of water that's adjacent to deep water are the equivilent of two different worlds. My step one when I launch is trying to imagine the lake without any visible cover and looking at all the circumstances to figure out what structure/depth the bass should be.

If you find something with 1000+ reviews (legitimate) that doesn't have "a few negatives" please tell me what it is and I will buy it even if I have no use for it. I own an Ultrex. Have you seen all the "problems" posted in forums and on social media with the Ultrex? Nothing is perfect. If you seek complaints...complainers you will find no matter what the subject. I chose an Ultrex because I have a MinnKota service center one hour from me and when I purchased the Ultrex from them they installed it for free. Now if I have a problem I can drive there and say "fix this please". As I understand it, there is no such thing as an authorized Garmin service center. If there had been one within an hour or two of me I would have a Force on my boat to match my Garmin electronics.

Yes. Black/blue jig and trailer combos can work at any time. I've had blk/blue football jigs catch fish after fish in bright sun in late summer on rip rap in the clearest water of the year. Give it a try when you feel like it. If the fish don't bite then switch to a green pumpkin combo.

If that was an intentional Joe Piscopo that was awesome.

Well, you outsmarted me. I've been doing this for years but my bottles wobble because I use a drywall screw or similar through the top. I'm stealing your specialized anti-wobble bolt!

That’s awesome!

I suggest you get back to talking about bass fishing in Illinois which is the subject of this thread.

X2 on this. I have a Merc 115 and I leave my electronics on all day long. I have this for a cranking battery: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/27m-xhd?productLine=marine&subcategoryKey=&ignorecategoryid=true It's only a group 27 and its SIX years old and working perfectly. I keep the proper amount (and type) of water in them and I keep them fully charged (floating) when not using them (year round). Also, why are your batteries leaking? I suggest you figure that out because there's absolutely no reason they should be "leaking".

Your Tatula is plenty strong. That being said, all of my baitcasters are Daiwa except for my frog reel. My frog rod has a Gen4 Revo SX on it. I fish a lake that gets more than a 1/3 of it covered in lily pads. The Revo with 65lb Sufix on a heavy 7'6" Powell gets quite a workout on that lake but never fails. Coincidentally that exact reel is on clearance at Bass Pro right now: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/abu-garcia-revo-sx-baitcast-reel-100026985-1

I bought a Ranger RT188 and lived for exactly one season with a 12V TM. I was so sick of losing the battle against anything but a light breeze that I replaced it with a 24V Maxxum before the second season. Second best improvement I have made to my boat. This winter I scrapped the Maxxum for a 24V Ultrex. That's the best improvement I have made and I've only been out with it three times. Game changer. I can't imagine running a 12V on your boat where I fish, but if that's what you've been using on your lakes and you're happy with it by all means save your money for lures and rods.

This is the stash of "extra" I have in my garage, not including what's on my boat. Highly recommend. T-rig it weightless or with a very small weight on a 2/0 or 3/0 worm hook. Throw it into/under tight spaces and let it sit. It requires very little input from you. It wags by itself and all the ridges put out plenty of feels. I use it the most in the spring but it will work in hot water when other worms won't if you're patient.

Yes it sure does. Thanks much.

Help me identify please. I was catching smallmouth under a bridge in a river about 1/2 a mile from my house after work today and this extremely angry little fellow with huge glowing red eyes choked my Ned rig like he hated it. This is a rock bass?

I'm 51 but my wife says I'm very childish. Does that count?

Here's another helpful start: https://www.bassmaster.com/slideshow/how-id-grass-and-fish-it-effectively#slide1

Don’t pay attention to the air temp the day you are fishing. It doesnt matter. What have the temps been the past few days? Was it a warming trend? Was it a cooling trend? Has it been sunny or cloudy? Warming is good in the spring. Today’s air temp won’t affect the water today. Is the water rising, staying the same, or falling? Cooling trend and falling water in spring can really slow the fishing down. Warm rain can really turn it on.

This is my favorite way to find hotels in safe(r) areas with easy parking lots when I'm towing something: https://www.google.com/earth/versions/ It's also very, very handy for studying new bodies of water.

I'm with @MN Fisher in that it is totally dependent upon all of the circumstances. I could make a safe generalization and say that if the water temp is below 75-80 (I'm in central Illinois) my anti-skunk is half of a ZinkerZ on a Ned head. If the water is above 80 the Ned no longer works and I'm most likely throwing a jig into some grass on a main lake point or football jig into rip rap in the deep water right where the rip rap ends. You really have to figure it out for each individual lake though IMHO.

I have both mine (Moderna) and my son has both of his (Pfizer). We both had fevers about 8-10 hours after the second shot and were back to 100 percent by 24hrs.

Squarebill, lipless crankbait and a football jig (if you catch in an area with a crankbait don't leave it until you've searched it with the jig also) Walk toward your first spot but just get within casting distance. Cast straight ahead and check that first area for fish. After you've hit that spot thoroughly walk the rest of the way up to the water and start casting as parallel to the bank as your can working your way out to deeper water. Then start walking in the direction you are casting and continue working from the bank out to deeper water. Once you get to the other end make sure you turn around and work your way back! I have caught fish on the way BACK that didn't hit it on the way down. I have had great success in the spring on several lakes working rip rap this way from the bank. I do the exact same from my boat but I work my way from deep to shallow. If you aren't getting bit in the shallows a fantastic spot is where the rock ends under the water. Throw the jig out and start slowly dragging it back. When you feel the rock just start casting to it with the jig and try dragging or hopping. If the water is still too cold for them to want to come up to the shallows they will hang out right where the rock starts.

Keep those kids away from it! ?

X2 Also not "brand-loyal". Instead I have brands that have burnt me (repeatedly; I always give them multiple chances) and I will not touch them anymore. Bosch is one of the good ones. Also, if you are looking for a portable saw just for rough-in work don't be afraid to try a Porter Cable. They won't suit you for finish work but my portable Porter Cable has been an absolute work horse for me.

If I can go out and catch a couple fish right away to beat any potential for skunk then I am much more likely to start to experiment with locations and techniques.

You don’t mention it, but If you have bunks and you are coasting on to your trailer then you are too deep. It should take a little shot of throttle to move that last foot or two depending on your boat/trailer. Once you get the hang of it you can also re-center the boat with that last throttle bump if you are crooked.