Russ E

The 705cb is too heavy for light crankbaits. It works ok for 3/8oz and up. But the rod will not load on anything lighter. I use it for kvd 1.5 and heavier. If I am fishing anything lighter, a different rod is used. This is an old thread. If you look at my previous post, I was also using the kast king speed demon pro. After a year, it snapped on a hookset. It is the third kast king rod that failed on me. I no longer use that brand.

Aside from the different answers and juvenile sarcasm in this thread, @Team9nine said it best. Don't worry about water temp. Throw it out and adjust accordingly to get the results you want.

This is backwards. Cold water can make a suspending jerkbait float. Warmer water will make it sink.

a 2 to 3 pound bass can be caught with nearly any knot on 10 pound line. start catching fish two or three times that size and you will be searching for better knots

@ajay and @Team9nine, more or less summed it up. I use suspend strips on a lot of my baits. One thing I would add is husky jerks don't suspend well. they seem to be very finicky as water temps change. if you want an all around suspending bait the megabass vision series are hard to beat. Nont sure what they do different than everyone else, but their baits will suspend across a wider range of water temps. They also cost twice as much as most other jerkbaits.

Sorry @jbsoonerfan. I was not copying you. You must have replied the same time as me.

Clinch knot is not a good knot for braid. Actually it is not a great knot for any line. It probably is not breaking, but slipping and coming untied. I only use braid about 10 percent of the time. When I do the only knot I use is the Palomar. Funny thing is , I do not use the Palomar for any other line

I started out with my mh/fast spinnerbait rod. To me it did not have enough flex in the tip for a chatterbait. I ended up using my Dobyns fury 705cb. I originally bought it for crankbaits, but thought is was a little to heavy for the baits I was using. It works great for chatterbaits. Enough backbone to set the big hooks, but enough flex to keep a fish pinned

I use the 100 for crankbaits. It is super smooth and will cast a mile.

I have a couple. They are decent. For lighter baits I usually turn on 1/2 of the centrifugal brakes and leave the cast control fairly loose. When casting light baits they take a lot more thumb control than my diawas.

sand and 4 wheel drive is all I have ever used. never felt the need to buy chains.

The pigtail was rated for your trolling motor. Shortening the pig tail will not make much difference. The reason to run heavier wire to the batteries is to prevent voltage drop across the longer distance .

The motor has its own GPS. Spotlock accuracy has nothing to do with a fish finder. The purpose of linking a fish finder and a trolling motor is the ability to follow a pre recorded path or go to a specific coordinate saved on the fish finder.

As a lefty who has always used right handed baitcasting and spinning reels, this makes no sense to me. My wrist and and elbows are roughly in the same position for both types of rod. The only real differences are the reels are 180 degrees different and my grip is a little different. As @PhishLI mentioned, this may pertain more to you than the rest of us.

I am not exactly sure how It works, but the sv spool is shallower and lighter. It slows down a lot faster than a standard spool. It also holds less line than a non sv spool

One thing I have noticed on a couple of the latest Diawa's I have purchased, was an excess of lube on the spool bearings. This hindered the performance quite a bit. I flushed the bearings and gave them a drop of reel oil and they improved dramatically

It sounds to me like your brake is not working properly on the ct. The ct and sv have different spools. The sv spool was designed to limit backlashes, when casting light lures, pitching etc. The other models take a little more thumb control, but can potentially cast farther. I have 3 tatula sv, 3 tatula ct, 4 tatula 100, and 2 fuego's. Some have the zero adjust knob and some do not. They all work the same. The magforce brake is designed to be the primary cast control. The zero adjust knob is just a marketing device. The only difference is it is harder to adjust. I adjust the spools all the same. With a small amount of side to side play and use the magnet for cast control. I have heard people talk about having to relearn casting when using a Diawa. To me that is completely false. I can power cast all of my diawa reels just as well or better than all of my other reels. Backlashes are extremely rare.

To me the Ned is just a tool like any other bait. While it can catch big fish, Most times there are better baits for larger fish. Catching 50 to 100 dinks a day does not do much for me. I may fish it around 5% of the time. Usually when the bite is extremely slow. Living in the birthplace of the Ned rig, it seems that is the bait everyone uses.

There are several opinions on electronics. Here is mine for bass fishing. If I pursued other species maybe it would be different. Trolling motor : Minn Kota ultrex. No matter what everyone else says, it is in my opinion the easiest and most reliable to operate. I have tried them all. Graphs: hummingbirds get the nod. Mainly for the 360. Being able to see cover and structure around the boat is a game changer. Livescope is cool, but for average bass fishing it is more work than it is worth. Constantly watching the screen and always trying to point the trolling motor where you intend to cast is not much fun, in my opinion.

Just your average bluegill

It is about what one would expect from a $100.00 combo. In over 45 years of fishing I have never seen a quality baitcasting "combo". I was at Cabelas today. there were rows of baitcasting combos. Including the MLF combos. I did not see one I would even consider purchasing. If a rod and reel are only sold as combos, my advice is walk away. Nearly all companies take a low quality reel put it on a cheap rod and give it a flashy name. You are better off buying a decent rod and reel separately. Bass Pro and Cabelas should have their spring fishing sale within the next few weeks.

I had a similar boat with a 50hp. It would safely run around 32 mph. They are not built for speed. I personally would not want to go much faster in that style boat. They get pretty loose at higher speeds. The tail liked to wander. Not near as stable as my current fiberglass boat.

I have driven a stick steer tracker. It is a bit tricky. I would not call it a safe setup. Personally if I were trying to convert a tiller motor, it would be to a console with a steering wheel. If not a steering wheel, I would stick to tiller.

I let he fish dictate the speed. As others have said, you first have to find fish. Often times that is with search baits like crankbaits or spinnerbaits. If I catch a few smaller fish in an area, I will often slow down and probe the area with a jig or worm. Most of my bigger fish have come from a slower presentation, after I have located them.

A lot of variables. Is the fridge full size. Is it a space heater or whole house heat. 120 or 240 volt. Is it a compact tv or big screen. Most boat chargers do not draw much power. For reference.: A full size fridge draws around 10 amps when the compressor is running. A 120 volt space heater draws around 10 amps. A big screen tv draws around 10 amps. 3X10 =30 amps 30 amps X 120 volts = 3600 watts. If you intend on running everything at once, I would get a 5500 watt generator. That is constant watts. Not peak. You may get by with the smaller generator, but it will have to work hard. Plus you may occasionally trip the breaker, if everything turns on at the same time.