Tmmytomato

In addition to the excellent suggestions from other posters, DO NOT try to over cast the lure. Trying to get too much distance can easily result in more birds nests. The better quality the reel, the less likely to have as many backlash issues. Shimano Caenan is a much upgraded version than their previous model of the same name and won't break the bank. There are a few good baitcasters available that are very affordable. Get the best you can afford and you'll soon forget the few extra bucks you spent.

You won't always feel a bump or a tick but sometimes just s different pressure, and it's really tough when you feel nothing because maybe the bass picked it up and moved toward you. That's the most difficult bite to detect in my opinion. I have a friend who is extremely good at slowly dragging his bait or dead sticking it and suddenly there is no feeling whatsoever - he sets on it and catches a good number of fish with that negative feeling as if somoeone just cut your line without you knowing it and there is no sensation of anything. I have caught my fair share doing that as well over my 70 years. No matter how much time you spend on the water you'll never be perfect but it's a little more fun when you have more positives than negatives.

Yes, that has happened but usually not that blatant. Partner and I were fishing a tournament a few years back working down a bank as you mentioned and had a boat jump in front of us by about 25 yards, knowing we were heading that way. I had a good bite in a bush in prefish that I did not set on - sure enough they tossed into the bush I was working towards and pulled out a five# which I just know was the same fish. Words would not have mattered - but they were guys I knew well.

I had many Arbogast Mud Bugs and relied on them a lot. But I used the bomber much more than the Mud Bug. Problem with a lot of those baits back then was they would roll up if you added too much speed. I still have a couple Scorpion spinner baits - short arm and really good for barely s-l-o-w rolling. Ward used to trail an Uncle Josh split tail eel on the back. We also threw a lot of 6" Jelly Worms and 7 1/4" FlipTail worms. Oh, and Little George tail spinners.

Is it a trick? Haa - that's a hoot. Follow up ready with (as previously stated) a fluke, a single tail grub, lipless crankbait, flutter spoon, Senko.

I have about maybe ten Jitterbugs, some old wooden and some newer plastic in a couple sizes. I have put a feathered treble on the rear of a couple of them and it seems to help the catch rate. I have also added a split ring between the hook hanger and the hook to give the fish less leverage to toss the bait once hooked - seems to help in keeping them pinned. I love the big black Jitterbug but throw four different colors.The Jitterbug is a classic.

When do I fish a tube? Always and forever.

I would SERIOUSLY doubt a Super Line hook was straightened by a seven pound bass - or any bass much larger than that. I have straightened a Trokar on 20@# braid when hung up. Tokars ore sharp but not the strongest. I have no issues with VMC, Owner, Gammy and Mustad especially in the Flippin' models or lines designed for heavy cover/Carolina Riggin.

Owner Hyper splits rings are excellent.

I have not had a problem with straight shank VMC Flippin' Hooks. The Owner Riggin' Hook is a heavier wire wide gap hook also. Both are available in 2/0 and 3/0 on up in size. You might get better success with a straight shank flippin' style hook.

I have over four dozen various Shimano reels so you can see where my allegiance lies. Anything from a Curado up through the Core (discontinued), Chronarch series, Metanium, Aldebaron and Calais - changing out bearings is a waste of money and time. Shimano is known for their bearings which really are second to none. If you have a slightly lower grade reel in their line you might notice a difference. The spinning reels I have are the Soros, Stradic, and Sustain, all of which I'm happy with. As far as the Poison Adrena - I do not have one but do have some Exprides I have been very pleased with - extremely light and sensitive and many actions to choose from. I also have the GLoomis NRX rods, the IMX and the EX6 series, the Shimano Cumara and Crucial rods. They each have a place for a technique. And I certainly won't spend $500 on an NRX rod fro crankbaiting. Had I not had super pricing on a few of those I wouldn't have spent the money but they are a dream to fish with. I am very impressed with both the Shimano Exprides and the GLoomis E6X rods.

Sounds like durability should be secondary if you are catching that many bass on whatever brand you are using. I would stick with what works and what you have confidence in considering most frogs are below $10 per. If you use a $5 frog and get little or no action, how good of a deal is that? You don't have a "problem" at all but you might have if you change frogs. Who knows?

Owner Riggin' Hook is definitely the ticket. I use it on a couple of craw-type baits and tubes that are very short but thick and need the wide gap with a short shank. Excellent suggestion from Tom.

Thanks to those who have posted about this day to remember our brothers and sisters in arms who have indeed given the ultimate sacrifice. Many of us will bar-b-que and drink beer and celebrate a long weekend but were it not for those who gave all we would not have this day of remembrance. Semper Fi 1967-1973

You seem to have done everything everyone else has suggested. I have to wonder if changing to a strait tail fluke or a single tail grub might have helped. It sounds though as if it was just one of those days.

Performance braid has been around a lot longer than "832". Performance braid, like most braids, floats and is usually a better braid for dead sticking top waters or fishing them very slowly. "832" will eventually sink making it not the best frogging line if you are dead sticking the frog because as it slowly sinks it will pull your topwater bait towards you and possibly out of the area/zone you want to fish. "832" is one of the very few sinking braids. I have fished "832" when Carolina rigging, jigging and very deep cranks. It's also a good line for a fast moving topwater like a buzzbait where it doesn't really have time to sink. "832" is definitely a superior braid. Power Pro is a good line as well but I like the "Slick 8" version of it better and have recently been using the MaxCuatro Power Pro which has an even smaller diameter than either regular PPro or "Slick 8". So far, so good. I have no use for Spiderwire.

According to the Golden Rule measuring board which is always very close to exact weights, a 19" bass is right at about 4#. Cool beans!

I am a huge Shimano/GLoomis guy but have owned and been very satisfied with the St. Croix Avid. I recently have added the Loomis E6X and been very happy with the three I have used so far. I have used the Zodius and had no problems with it as far as feel and sensitivity (6'10" MH) throwing 1/2 oz jigs. The Avid is an historically solid rod so you won't go wrong with it. I would find the rod that feels good to you, put a reel and line on it and make a number of practice tosses with it and if it feels right, buy it and don't second guess yourself.

Nitrofreak has given you some good starting suggestions. My very first thought was your weight is too heavy. Have you thrown many weightless stick baits (Senko types) and weightless flukes?

For lipless I'd use a rod with more backbone and faster tip and preferably 7' in length. For 1.5 cranks I really prefer a MM in either 6'6" or 7'. Luckily I have enough rods to cover either situation. If I was limited to a single rod it would probably be a 7' Medium Extra fast.

I have used the Hank Parker Classic (Mann's) for many years and still have maybe eight still in the package. I will not pay $10 for a spinnerbait - paid I think around $5 or maybe even $6 when I got the last bunch a few years ago when I found them at a reduced price. Good spinnerbait for sure but $10 is too steep, regardless of whose name is on it.

Have always called a jig head with a longer/larger worm either a jig worm or shaky head. As far as the Ned rig, we were doing that 30 years ago but never had an official name for it other than a cut down jig worm. I definitely prefer a floating worm for that application so the tail will stand up.

I bought a couple Metaniums from Japan (7:1) many years ago before they were available in the States - loved them! Last year I picked up three more (8.5:1) and this year another two. They are the bomb! If you want to effortlessly throw a buzzbait, this is the ticket. Years ago we had 4.7:1 Ambassadeurs and would hold our 5 1/2' rods over our heads and reel buzzbaits like a banshee. How times have changed. And for quick line recovery after an errant cast or while pitching - woohoo. Anyway, this reel is pricey but smoooooth. Fishing them with Shimano Cumara and Expride rods - light as a pic pen.

Being more dense, the fluoro leader will tend to sink in the water column keeping your baits down. Most braids float but there are a few that sink (Sufix 832) but generally braid is thin enough that there's minimal resistance anyway. The fluoro leader will keep your baits down.

For squarebills I prefer something between 5.7:1 and 6.4:1. As baits get bigger and bulkier I go to a 5.1:1 to 5.7:1. If you never throw super deep oversized cranks you can speed up but the lower ratio means hours and hours of presenting a bait versus short spurts that put a lot of torque and resistance in your reeling. I have 8.5:1 reels too but save those primarily for jigging, flipping and effortless buzzbaits.