haggard

What could possibly go wrong?

If you want to get fancy, it's a string trimmer, but no need to get too fancy. That's a weed whacker. Whacker with an "h" Wacker = wacky = wacko = crazy

I never carried an extra prop for my motors with stainless or aluminum props, but my new 3.5 hp Merc has a plastic one, so I'll be carrying an extra.

Dremel tool with an engraver bit.

Craigslist can be great but if someone offers to pay you with check (often for more than you're asking), and offers to let check clear before taking delivery, don't fall for it, don't even answer the email.

The thing is... is that range unloaded, or when towing 10,000? Electric as an unloaded commuter vehicle is one thing but towing 10,000 lbs your range will decrease. On top of that, if these specs are from the marketing department, they're stated for ideal conditions. We learned this in the 90s with laptop battery specs. A laptop sitting idle will run 10 hours but how long will the battery last when you're actually using it? That is usually unstated. For certain applications, electric makes sense. For others, it doesn't yet. It also appears to be "game over" for manual transmissions, because for an average driver, an auto transmission might be able to eek out slightly better fuel economy. But is that the only criteria? Auto transmission is much more complex in terms of parts, service, maintenance, compared to a manual. You may save in one place, but often give it up in another.

Brook trout. When I finally catch one, I'm hoping it will be on a fly rod, because it will also be the first fish I ever caught on a fly rod.

I had the exact same setup! But when I found the Bantam MGL, I sold the 200K and 70 (actually I had 201K and 71). Now it's all Bantams for the baitcasters, and Stradic CI4+ for the spinners (2500 and 1000).

I use a M/F as a more of a general purpose rod, usually with 1/4 oz bullets plus a soft plastic. MH/F for slightly more targeted applications, which usually amounts to deep or heavy. Such as - fishing deep (to 40 ft) using 3/8 oz bullets plus soft plastic - fishing deep (to 40 ft) using bottom contact jig - fishing in slop or cover, such as pads with frogs, where you might need the extra power of MH

I didn't realize the CI4+ 2500 was discontinued. I love mine so much I was thinking of getting another but apparently not so much anymore! It's my go-to for light bass techniques on a 6'6 ML/XF rod. Highly recommended, if you can find one.

I got the Ryobi 1,600 PSI 1.2 GPM Electric Pressure Washer for $100 - does the fence, siding, boat, truck, decks... it's relatively cheap, small, light weight and does well.

With your MH/F and M/F, I'd go with a ML/F 6'6 to 7' spinning setup paired with your CI4+ (is that a 2500?) As @MN Fisher said it's very versatile. I prefer M/F and MH/F baitcasters but for the past 2 seasons since I got my ML, I use it more often than the others (it's actually a ML/XF because that's what was available, but /F should do fine) It does very well with a 3 inch paddle tail worm on a 1/8 oz jig head, or a Bitsy Bug light jig with a small paddle tail trailer.

It should be fine. I use 6 lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid on a CI4+ as my go-to panfish setup on a L/F rod. It works so well I've never found a reason to change it or question it. Even if you're using it on a higher power rod for bass, if you're comfortable with the 1000 size, 6 lb should be good. 4 lb will probably cast better. I settled on 6 lb because at 4 the line is getting too thin for me to tie knots easily, and because it's the same line I use for a ML/F bass setup (2500 reel).

Everything in life is a tradeoff. Owning a boat can be very rewarding. Owning a boat can take time, money and effort. Find what works for you based on your abilities, philosophies and resources. Coincidentally, or maybe ironically, my course took a turn yesterday, and I'll be selling mine but still have a yak and a jon.

Sounds like a great choice for panfish. For trout, might consider an UL/F, but this could probably get the job done. My go-to panfish combo is a StC L/F with a 1000 size reel and 6 lb line and it seems just right. Only reason I use 6 lb line is because I have a harder time tying knots with the thinner 4 lb.

My 93sv came with a choke that you could coil the wires through (not sure if that's the power wires or the transducer wires) to reduce interference caused by the motor(s). I didn't install mine and have no issues, but you might try that. You can buy chokes separately if needed, and just do a little research on how and where to install them.

Congrats, great looking boat! But I think that roll of paper towels at the bow will get wet when you're underway.

In no way do I intend this to be a personal dig: Please cite your sources.

If St.C is where you have experience and if you're comfortable with the brand, I'd use your existing experience as a reference point and go from there, within the same brand. From there, I'd consider what "general" means in a "general purpose baitcaster." Does it mean a rod that will handle most any species in any region using any technique, or is it bounded by the species, conditions and presentations you're most likely to try in the areas you're most likely to fish. Within the St.C lineup I'd say a Premiere or Avid series 6'6 to 7'0 in M/F is a great general purpose baitcaster for smallmouth and largemouth when fishing open water without lots of structure and cover with a variety of lures, and the same in MH/F if your typical waters find you fishing more weeds, pads or slop, of if you're targeting hogs. Just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions

Likes.

Not sure if this is unique to St. C but pretty much every other category on their site shows the same.

Something to consider if you're looking at pedal drives is body position when your feet are on the pedals. With a propeller drive, you'll probably be sitting with legs elevated higher than they would be in a Hobie style drive, especially when your feet are at the top of the rotation cycle. With the Hobie style drive (non propeller) your legs and feet are lower and making a simple forward-backward motion, and your sitting more on your butt than on your tail bone. I've tried both and find the Hobie more comfortable. Propeller drive is good for instant switch between forward/reverse.

Hobie Pro Angler 12. It's heavy but I doubt you'll find a yak that's better quality, more stable and comes standard with a lot of features you'd pay extra for as options on other boats. I'm not sold on the 360 drive is worth the extra $ as I found the 180 did just fine. The PA doesn't paddle too well given its mass, but it's meant to be pedal driven and in that regard it's great.

No. When it comes to fish catching stats I prefer to base them in logic and science - for example when you drive past a field and all the cows are standing up, it will be a good fishing day.

I'm not getting any younger and I just sold my Pro Angler 12 for a Passport 10.5, primarily due to the weight of the PA and looking ahead to what I can manage as I get older. The PA is incredibly stable! But it's a heavyweight beast. I'm not saying the Passport 10.5 would be a good fit for someone 270 lb, but just unless you have a way to easily launch and load the PA, you might consider other options. I had Boonedox wheels on the PA and can't imagine lugging the PA around without them. Even then, it was a lot of boat to lug. In my opinion keeping the boat weight down is key. A lighter boat with some stability, maybe a 12 footer at 34 inches wide, plus some sort of wheels/cart, might work well for you.