bassboy1

If he has power tilt on a motor that is on a 1436, he is my hero......... ;D ;D ;D ;D

Are you sure Great Stuff is an open cell foam? Well maybe the original stuff is, but there is another model that is closed cell. I remember doing a boat project a few years back where we came a tad short on the 2 part expanding foam we were using, and then use Great Stuff. I remember making sure at the time that it was the right stuff first.

Didn't say I can afford to fish. At this age, I really need to choose one hobby or the other (boats, or fishing - not both). I have just one bass rod because I go broke buying boat stuff. Don't even have the cash for a few bags of soft plastics in a color that I actually use (got plenty in colors I don't - I "collect" fishing tackle - that is the only way I can convince myself that I haven't wasted so much money on stuff I use) Been doing a lot of elec. only fishing, as I can't afford to put 6 gallons of gas in the boat. Of course, I found a heck of a deal on the outboard that I would really like on my main boat, and this weekend I may end up trying to sell off my other one, and use up every bit of cash that I had saved towards a tackle order to get that, although there isn't anything wrong with the motor on there now (except for the fact that it runs on liquid gold - and isn't the "ideal" motor for that boat)

I am 15, and have two. And share two with my dad. I have 6 outboards, and dad has one complete one, and 2 parts motors.

Heres mine. http://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4077 15 foot 7 inch long, 42 inch bottom. 40 horse Evinrude 1975 model tiller, 40 pound thrust MK All Terrain, Bow and "console" Eagle fishmark sonars, All aluminum deck and structure. 8 foot rod locker. etc. Runs close to 30 mph with that outboard. Might be able to breach 30 with a different prop, or 35 with a newer 40 horse. Fishes great. Very stable, plenty of storage, fairly good layout etc. 2 guys can stand on the bow deck without it acting real squirrely.

Oh boy. I bought the boat back in February, and spent many hours just planning, and pondering, and planning, and pondering etc. Except for putting coats of paint on the trailer, I didn't really do much until spring break in April. I am estimating 400+ hours for all (except planning) - trailer, structure, carpet, electrical, and engine work. But, I wasn't necessarily using the time as well as I could have now. When I first started the project, I lacked a vertical metal cutting bandsaw. Most of my sheet cuts were done with a saber saw, which is a total pain in the neck, and incredibly slow. Also, I was teaching myself as I went, so now I know where it is better to punch, or drill, and what pieces need to be made and installed first, where they don't interfere with the installation of other pieces. I actually had every piece to the stern deck cut and jigged in place, before I drilled and riveted anything. Now that I have experience, and better tools, can do things a lot quicker. If I was starting over, with the exact same plan, but with the experience/equipment I have now, I could probably cut it down to 250 or less hours. My ballpark estimate for pricing this is 3700 - 4000. Here is a rough breakdown. boat/trailer - 600 motor - 325 plus about 175 in parts (ran when I got it, so the parts are just tune up parts and LU rebuild parts) trolling motor - 150 shipped. Bought from swap and sell. bow sonar - 90 shipped. Bought from bassresource swap and sell console sonar and RAM - 125 shipped. Bought from ***. Aluminum - estimate 585 - 600 at surplus price from local scrapyard. (Some is new that has been scrapped) Trailer parts and paint - estimate 200. Previous owner replaced wheels, tires, jack and coupler before I bought it. I just had to paint, replace leaf springs, replace lights with LEDs, replace bunks, lengthen tongue and make winch post. Carpet and glue - I think about 125. Bought 20 linear feet, and when I finish, I should have some left. Used 2 gallons of glue, and I may need another to get the last little bit finished. Seats, pedestals, bases, and such from Cabelas - 240. Rivets - I estimate that I used around 25 boxes. They were varying sizes, and came from Home Depot, or Northern tool. I think they averaged 4 bucks a box from the two places, so call it 100 bucks. Definitely could have saved a bit there if I had bought in bulk, or bought all from Northern (significantly cheaper than HD for future reference). Wiring. Came to about 230 from Genuinedealz down in Brunswick Ga. It is all top of the line tinned marine grade, and I used large sizes (probably larger than needed) because I had long runs. All the connectors have heat shrink built in. My trolling battery is an Interstate group 27 that dad got me through his work for 70. Not sure if he gets a discounted rate or not, but I am satisfied with this brand. Used it for a year on my Grumman. The starting battery is an old AAA that came out of a car we inherited and parted out. Will probably have to replace it soon, so there is another 60 for an Interstate. The hinges and rivnuts came from Aircraft Spruce and set me back about 50 or so bucks. I am estimating that I spent probably 100 bucks on stainless hardware to replace non stainless stuff in the boat, and to mount my stuff. The kicker, my Evinrude 4 horse Deluxe (deluxe model has shifter, twist tiller, and other stuff found on a 9.9) actually has about -225 in it (I had 600 in my Grumman, trailer, and this motor then sold the Grumman and trailer for 825) but I am not taking that off the project cost, just going to call it free. I am going to say another 225 or so in hardware that I have added, or will add - cleats, hatch pulls, nav light bases, other mounting hardware etc etc.

I'll be sure to PM it to ya...... ;D

Looks good. That steering wheel should clean up nicely with a wire brush, and can of rustoleum.

I wanted to make something that was small enough to be used on elec. only impoundments, yet big enough to be used on large reservoirs, and in the ocean. I also wanted it to be able to practically fish for bass, troll for stripers, run for reds and trout in the flats, and hold 20 or so crappie rods under a bridge late at night. I settled on a Yazoo 1542 mod vee. I ended up with a 1975 Evinrude 40 as the main powerplant, and a MK 40 pound All Terrain as the bass fishing trolling motor. I will also mount my '88 Evinrude 4 deluxe on it as a kicker for striper fishing (assuming it will push it to just over 3 mph - not sure of that right now - if it doesn't it is just an excuse to increase my collection of outboards that currently consists of just 10 ) Also, I will at some point get 2 70 pound MK transom mounts for electric only. I sized the fuel hatch to hold 4 group 27 batteries, when I have the 40 horse off. Read all about it, and view the pictures here. Keep in mind, I am 15. Also, check back every few months. This thing will never be finished as long as I own it, as I cannot leave good enough alone. It will constantly evolve.

I could try to explain it, but my explanations are great in my head, and horrible on paper. So, here is someone elses explanation for you. http://www.maxrules.com/fixtheory2.html

We have a 1989 Chevy Silverado 2500 that has just under 400,000 on its 350. It got a new clutch at 100,000 and will get a new one next weekend, as it started slipping real bad coming up the steep driveway last weekend. It also leaks oil quite a bit, and while we are changing the clutch, we will assess the rear main seal, and see if we can squeeze some more life out of it. The truck has been used for well more than it was designed for. It's bumper was ripped off with an 11,000 pound flatbed full of green timber, it has been used to pull stumps and do lots of dragging. I believe it was run without oil once. It sees 4000 in the bed quite often.

General rule of thumb is 75 to 100 percent. More if you are feeling lucky. ;D

Vees don't usually have a good bottom width, as they are soft chine, and not hard. That being said, I just sold a 12 footer with a 56 inch beam, and it wasn't all that stable. You could stand up, but you had to have a knee against the bench seat to stay stable in the bow, and in the stern you could stand alright. But, it was no candidate for a deck. Hope you can get a bit of a reference from that.

If you are talking a motor under about 75 or so pounds, a granny stand works wonders. Here is my 50 pound Evinrude 4 deluxe. Now, if you are talking 315 pounds, I would just get a hand truck, and mount a "transom" on it.

DITTO THAT!!! Trust me, if you don't, a future owner in 20 years or so will hate you with a passion. Trust me. (I am a future owner of many homebrew modifications in boats - kinda scary what some people do)

Well, as i said, i don't have one, but people are constantly posting pictures on a local board I am on. Lotsa people on my local lake have them. They are posting pictures of bridge pilings, and brushpiles that many if us never knew existed, because it may have been a couple feet off of the normal sonar beam. All the structure in a creek channel can be found in one pass.

I don't have one, but have a lot of friends that do. Some have them on the console, but have their bow sonar connected to it, so they can still mark GPS points with the bow one, but save them in the 997 (or 1197 as the case may be). One guy though, mounted his 797 on the bow of his fish n ski, so that he can see it from the bow, and the console. Now, his fish and ski has a shorter bow deck than most bass boats, so he can still see it well. BTW, they are downright awesome!

I don't care what kind of fasteners you use, but make them stainless. The previous owners of some of my boats need to be shot, for the trouble it causes me to dismantle something.

Another vote for Gluvit. Good stuff.

I would fish a bit with it before buying a second tank. You may fish all day, but the motor may not run more than 45 minutes.

No, you don't want stainless. Too heavy, hard to work with (isn't very forgiving) and all. Stick with the .125 aluminum like Catt mentioned. .125 (1/8 inch) thickness, 1 1/2 inch angle should be okay for your structure. Find used aluminum. Head to your local scrapyard, and see what they will sell ya. I get cutoffs from large factorys, sometimes a full 10 feet long, and 3 feet wide even, in all shapes and sizes, and thickness etc, for 2 bucks a pound. The honeycomb is real nice, as it is light, but incredibly strong, so it is dirt cheap, due to weight. Got a load of some 1/16 honeycomb last Saturday.

6' 3". Guess that makes me 6' 5" with my boots on, whatever that means. I wear a 13 boot size, and I am hoping that stops, as specialty boots are expensive, and 14s aren't common right off the shelf. Doctors say I should be 6' 5" when I stop growing (14 right now - turn 15 in March)

I like a lot of the older country (70s and such) Some new stuff as well, with a bit of the in between stuff too. My playlist right now consists of: Alabama C. W. McCall Jerry Reed Montgomery Gentry Charlie Daniels Lynyrd Skynyrd Often though, you can find Alan Jackson, Johnny Cash, etc. mixed in, among others.

Generally speaking, NADA tends to be a little low on boats older than 2 or 3 years. They seem to go on a slide rule, and not by actual sales, so they are way off.

Absolutely awesome. If I had the money for one, I would have one - or two. But, for now, I only get to see them when on friends boats, or, more often, when they post pictures on a local lake message board. Lotsa people on Lake Allatoona here in GA have one.