Gorris317

I started using Tackle Direct instead of TW. They are closer to me and have a pretty good selection.

I have never had luck using anything from BioSpawn. People rave about them but I yet to catch a fish or get a bite using one of their lures.

I just picked up the Tatula and its an amazing rod. Got it to replace my e6x that I was using for bottom contact baits. Never fished the Shimano but have heard good things about it.

I feel comfortable with it. Was just upgrading and the lure wt ratings were a little confusing. To me 3/4 oz doesn't seem like I should be throwing a heavy power rod. Might just be over thinking it. I might end up going that route. Now whats the difference between and MBR and JWR? Is one more sensitive than the other?

As the title states I'm a little confused on rod and lure weight. I might be over thinking it but not sure. So I currently have an E6X 843 MBR that I use as a bottom contact rod. I was looking to upgrade it, but most the JWR rods I have seen don't go past 3/4 ounce. I weighted the 1/4 ounce tungsten weight, hook, and lure I normally throw for t-rigs and its right at 3/4 ounce. Am I throwing too heavy of a t-rig? Or am I looking at the wrong type of rod for this application?

I love my Zoom baits. I haven't used Yum since they quit making the 7" Salamander. Might have to pick up some of their lizards and the Wooly Bug, looks like it could give the Z craw a run for its money.

I understand. I will probably go with the MH/F as my E6X is the same and I don't have any issues.

No one has them in stock locally. Might have to drive an hour to handle them. The names throw me off especially when you look at the ratings for each rod.

Would the H/F still work good for sparse cover? Some parts of the lake have some vegetation but others are rather bare. Nothing I would call think that I would use something like a frog rod in.

I'm trying to figure out which SC Victory to purchase. I'm looking for a bottom contact rod that I can throw 1/2 to 3/4 oz baits on. Not sure whether to get the 7'3" Med Hvy/Fast or the 7'3" Hvy/X-Fast Action. Which one would you recommend?

I picked up a tat 100 two years ago. This year it has given me nothing but issues that I took it off my rod and put it back in the box. Cleaned and lubed it during the winter like I do all my other reels. Its now super loud and has a lot more play in the handle than it did when I first got it.

I'm looking to upgrade my t-rig/ jig rod. Currently using a e6x and I feel I could get a better rod in the same price range. Sensitivity isn't there. I used other rods that I feel are more sensitive and cost less $$$. I jumped at the loomis name when picking it up last year and didn't really do my research. Looking for: 7' to 7'3" 3/8 to 1oz. Lighter on the low end if possible. Good sensitivity $250 budget Pairing it with a Curado 200k Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tight Lines.

Thanks for the feedback. I currently carry a bag with 3700 boxes (4) and its a pain for plastics since I keep them in their original packaging. I feel the backpack would be easier to carry even though its bigger.

Does anyone own one of these? How are they? And negatives? Looking at picking one up but I'm not sure which version to get. They have a top loader and a front loader version. I primarily bank fish so this would help out a lot. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Shimano_Blackmoon_Backpack_Front_Load/descpage-SBMBPFL.html?from=basres https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Shimano_Blackmoon_Backpack_Top_Load/descpage-SBMBPTL.html?from=basres

My first baitcaster was a Pro Max combo. 7 speed reel with a MH/F rod. Used that for a season just to make sure that this type of setup was something I was going to use. The next year I invested in a more expensive rod and reel. I now own a couple setups because one just won't do everything. Fluro is not ideal for topwater frogs and faster reels take more work for deep diving cranks. So I built setups for techniques that I fish. You don't need 12 combos or more like some people have. Get one setup for now for your "workhorse" combo then add more combos when things go on sale.

Like everyone else has said a couple sprays the night before.

2016 IIRC.

When I first started with a spinning reel I used the handle. I had a habit of fishing really fast and didn't let baits sink. So to combat that, I started using my hand to slow myself down. Been doing that for the last 15 years. Only time I use the handle now is if I make a bad cast and want to stop it from getting into trouble.

Thanks for all the replies. Think I'm going to pick up a Bantam. Little more than the DC reel but all the reviews I have seen say its an amazing reel.

I'm looking to pick up my first Shimano baitcaster, been a Daiwa guy for as long as I can remember. This is going to be a workhorse reel that I throw a lot of different baits at different weights on. Mainly will be throwing jigs, T-rigs and some topwater frogs. Currently leaning towards one of the DC reels, either the SLX or Curado and I'm not sure on the choice. Is the Curado worth the extra $$$ of the SLX?

Good to know. I will probably just pick up another 100 then.

I have the 100 what makes the elite better? Not worried about casting distance as my 100 casts far enough.

Same here. Actually had a nasty backlash earlier this year on braid and lost a whopper plopper. Backlashed so hard the knot broke and lure went flying.

I agree with above statement. I would turn on another brake and back of the spool tension knob a tad bit.

I use Owner All Purpose Softbait Hook. Its EWG hook and those work great for t-rigs. The straight part of the hook will lay flat on the bottom and it helps leave the bait up in the air a bit.