MN Fisher

I tried pegs...didn't like it. Now I use rubber bobber stops for everything...even my slip-bobber setup.

I'm with A-Jay on this...net, grippers and pliers are on my list of 'necessary' items in the canoe. I include HO, 99% (medical grade) alcohol and Providone in my med-kit in addition to bandages and steri-strips.

The pull thing works on both - BUT - as PapaJoe said, FC will remain 'pulled'...which thins and weakens the line. I personally use the KVD and put up with the remaining memory of FC lines - doesn't affect performance that much and I haven't weakened the line by stretching it.

I have the Berkley clip-on - worked fine with 10# braid. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/berkley-line-counter

Mix up some Simple Green All-Purpose at 20:1 - S.G. is what I use for all my cleaning. Rods: Damp rag, wipe them down with the S.G. and let them dry. Reels: Standard maintenance for bearings and gears. Outsides - same as with the rods.

My budget doesn't allow me to get tri-focal sunglasses in addition to my clear set - so I use polarized clip-ons.

That'd be funny if it wasn't so horribly true...

Winter is down time here so that's when I do maintenance. Baitcasters: I strip the reels down, clean gears and bearings - flushing out everything including 'last year's' grease and oil, inspect to make sure there isn't any damage to the gears and bearings, then reassemble with grease on gears (except the worm-gear as Tom says) and oil the bearings and worm-gear. Spinners: Again, strip them down, clean everything, check the parts and reassemble. With spinners, the part that's different that I also clean, inspect and re-oil is the line roller.

Should come with instructions, but if what I'm seeing in the pic is right....take off the plastic cover on the end and thread it over the wire, loosen the set-screw that you can see under the plastic, insert the bare wire, tighten the set screw, put the plastic cap back on.

Except if you wire to the terminals on the box, you still have the 50amp breaker in the line. Have to put in a 60amp and bypass the box-breaker...wire directly to the battery by running the wires under the lid.

If you've got the Minnkota Power Center - just ignore the separate circuit breaker and use the one on the box - so direct connect both positive and negative from the box to the TM. Note however - the Power Center is a 50amp breaker and Minnkota recommends a 60amp for the Max-55...so at full thrust, you might trip the breaker on the Power Center as the TM draws right at that 50amp limit.

Sounds like my dad - and I was building computers way before online services like Compuserve, Source, Genie, or Quantum Link ever got started. Long as you're careful and pay attention to details, disassembling/reassembling a reel isn't nuclear physics. I've been maintaining my own reels for 50 years now.

Local shops should have a repair/maintenance area - they can do the cleaning/relubing. Also, one of the site sponsors has a very good reputation among members - DVT (right sidebar at the bottom) does reel repair/maintenance.

That dirt and vegetation can get into the bearings and gears. Cleaning the old oil/grease out completely before putting new oil/grease on will not only keep the reel smooth but extend the time needed before replacing parts. Just adding oil/grease leaves all that debris behind.

Here's how I'd do it. Black 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery end, butt connector to TM negative wire Red 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery, 4"-5" length to circuit breaker, butt connector to TM positive wire. Circuit breaker goes on the positive line, as close to either the power source or the item being powered as possible...in this case, right by the battery. The switch acts like a disconnect - manually operating it cuts power to what ever is connected. If the circuit breaker trips for what ever reason, you can reset it after finding out what the issue is.

Final Jeopardy - "What does John do on his skateboard?"

Here's a decent in-line circuit breaker. https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077D1C7L3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=60+amp+inline+fuse&qid=1623695426&sr=8-5

Wire gauges work in reverse - the smaller the number, the thicker the wire. 1 gauge is about the diameter of your pinky finger 32 gauge is hair-thin So the 8 gauge is thicker than the 10 gauge of the TM - less resistance, less prone to heating, better carrier of current. I would put at least a fuse in line - 60 amp - if not a circuit breaker.

Extending it that far I'd go with 8 gauge for the run to the battery. Connect with a couple crimp butt connectors. https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-BCV8-25-Vinyl-Connector/dp/B01F6SCUVM/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1PAEKARRJBGP4&dchild=1&keywords=8+gauge+butt+connector&qid=1623694397&s=industrial&sprefix=8+guage+butt%2Cindustrial%2C185&sr=1-26

Or the Comet...

You can import GPX data to a Striker using the Active Captain app on your phone or tablet...see the Garmin FAQs on using Active Captain with your Striker. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=hfoJ0E0Exk6w02QCMGhun7 General Active Captain help https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?productID=573254&tab=topics

I think we need @FryDog62's opinion on this as he river fishes smallies both in MN and ND...Chris, want to chime in?

I like a lighter rig for Neds. 7' Diawa Procyon Light/Fast. Avocet RZT-1000 with 6# InvizX.

Didn't do as bad as I thought I would - especially when the Llama came in last for today. Though he's still got a commanding lead in AOY points

I don't remember when I ordered my Master Catalogue - but I've had it for at least a couple months now.