MN Fisher

Now if we can just convince a certain vid-maker prominent here to wear his PFD all the time...set an example.

Not waste - give it 2-3 seasons depending on how often you fish - then reverse the braid. Whole new end without having to buy more.

I like my reels smaller than most. Finesse fishing - 1000 size (Pflueger 25) - I have 3 in this class General - 2000-2500 size (Pflueger 30) - I have 2 in this class Heavier techniques - 3000 size (Pflueger 35) - 1 of these...my main skipping rig on a MH/F rod

I use it on mono and fluoro - skip it on braid though some do use it there as well. Mainly it's to reduce memory on lines that have it...which braid doesn't. One 'heavy' coating when first spooling up the line - then 2-3 spritzes the night before I'm going out.

I've been working to 'lean up' - down to 195 from my high of 220. Now it's stretching exercises - pilates mainly - but soon as things settle down here it's starting with weights...light to begin. Wife's just a week back from the hospital and there's a lot of daily care needed...which is why the delay. I'm never gonna look like Andy - way too late a start - but if I can loose the mid-section expansion I'll be happy.

I wouldn't limit it to 'small' fish...it'd handle a good size trout or slab crappies...just that the line capacity is so small, you're pretty much limited to 4# or under.

That's why it has 'limited' in it - it's limited to the original purchaser...you buy it used, any repair work is on your dime.

I listen to @A-Jay just as I listened to my grand-uncle about water safety as they both are/were retired USCG. No better experience available than ex-Coasties... Keep em floating, Andy.

Well, I'm not the Nord-one and I don't have Tatsu on my spinners.... BUT 6# and 8# InvizX on my 1000-2000 size spinners hasn't been a problem...course I use KVD L&L which probably helps.

Sufix Elite Hi-Vis yellow - even this 'one-eyed wonder' can see it at a fair distance.

My first guess is dig-in. If the underlying braid isn't tight, as you reel in the new layers can actually 'burrow' under. Then when you cast, they get hung up. I'm running 20# Sufix 832 on my MH/F Spinning rig, and 10# Sufix 832 on my ML/F - every so often, I make a cast, but use my fingers to make sure there's sufficient tension on the line to make it tight on the spool.

That's the Ultra-Light reel - the 20 in Pflueger is about a 500 from others. If you keep the reel - go with a Light power (661SF probably) rod, and use it for ultra-finesse. It's a great trout/panfish reel

Agree with this. I have a single battery in the canoe - it runs my TM, my Striker 7, my camera and my tablet. I've not had an issue with the Striker when the TM is running, even at '5-speed'. A lot has to do with the circuits too - I have my battery in a Minn Kota Power Center box - the TM runs off the main terminals, the Striker off one aux-port, the camera and tablet off the second aux-port - each has it's own circuit breaker...that may be why the TM doesn't interfere.

So you got the Pres-30? (that's closer to a 2500 size) If you want finesse - the 702SF I've got my Pres XT-30 on a 703SF Medium, I've got a Pres-25 (1000 size) on my 702SF.

I've got a West Marine charger - specifically recommended by WM for the WM (East Penn) deep-cycle battery I bought...got them at the same time.

If I could find one - another Patriarch or even the Patriarch XT...love my Pat. Currently available retail? Simple needs but want Dual Braking now after my Patriarch experience... Lews Tournament MP in 6.8:1

It's pretty sad - I went through the 'Prime Deals' list for fishing A few Columbia Shirts Couple difference Kast King Pliers Frabill Conservation Net Rest is what I consider 'junk' brands...even the 6-pack of WP knock-offs isn't worth it.

Agree with everything you said, Hammer. The 23rd will be my wife's and my 31st - and definitely, communication is the key. Also, getting disagreements out of the way and never going to bed angry helps.

Mostly motor, but paddle when I'm cruising through thick slop...mainly lily-pad patches.

I'm still resisting...mainly because my wallet has cobwebs and my card is screaming in agony. Maybe this Yule when I get Gift-Certs and checks from the relatives...

Soft swimbait from Megabass

I use Yo-Zuri Hybrid on my crank-rig. To 'combat' the diameter difference, I step down one pound-test when going with YZH...so instead of the 15# most would use for larger/heavier/deeper cranks, I use 12# YZH.

Ya - one place I worked we used the adhesive lined tube for connectors that were going to be in humid environments...gotta be careful to not overheat those though. Regular shrink-tube can take a wider variation in temp than the adhesive lined ones can...they shrink fine, but the sealing adhesive can get too hot and become brittle...defeating the sealing qualities. Add Jameco to that list - those three are the only ones I get electronic components from.

Backstory: I'd stripped the 8# mono I used for fishing Indian Lake off and was able to 'squeeze' about 50yds of 20#. Realized my rod probably wasn't up to the task of a salt-water fish and found a used Heavy power rod in the bargin bin for like $12 (this was back in the early 70s). Put a 10/0 hook on, a 12" or so dead squid on and kept casting as far as the line would let me. When that fish hit, I just prayed the reel would hold...the 320 back then was like the 308 is now - middle size reel. 20 minutes later I was able to pull it ashore...thing was almost as long as I was...and we didn't have a camera with us (was fishing with my cousin).

20# striper caught in the Cape Cod Canal when I was 11 with a Mitchell 320 (gifted) on a bargin-bin Shakespeare rod? That count?