MN Fisher

I'd go with the 20 if it's between those two - I'm using a Pflueger 25 for my dropshot/general finesse work...which is a little smaller than an Abu 10. For Neds, I usually use my Pflueger 20...which yes, is smaller still. For finesse - I'm running a 7' ML/F rod, 6# Sufix Elite Mono. Neds are on a 6'6" UL/F rod, 4# Yo-Zuri Hybrid.

Welcome to the forum - far as the price...GLX 642C MBR new runs $470. Get the parts, fix it up...it's a great rod.

Are you using this? I use it on all my non-braid line and it really helps the curl-factor.

If you want it to drop straight down...leave the bail open for a bit. Closing the bail too early will create a pendulum effect...it'll swing towards you as it drops.

If you really need to replace the hooks - some heavy-duty cutters to cut the top loop of the hook, then some small split-rings...4mm maybe...to put the replacements on with.

There's also the KD610-4CB which is a medium/mod that Gary rates for cranks and jerks.

Actually - the new Kaden series has a couple crankbait models...between the Sierra and Champion in price.

Ya, $15-$20 (minimum) shipping each way...replacement tip less than $5 for a Fuji Alconite, $5-$10 for the rest of the materials if you don't have it. Tip replacements are super-simple...I remember doing my first one when I was 15 way back. This is what I love about Mike - willing to help the DIY guys.

Replacing inserts is not the way to go - I know that DVT can replace the entire tip-top, but it's actually fairly easy to do yourself.

Others from nature White Willow bark tree was noticed to reduce pain and inflamation - active ingredient now synthesized and sold as Aspirin Valarian root tea was known for it's calming effects - active ingredient now synthesized and sold as Valium And the list goes on and on BTW: Best bug repellent I've found is Calendula Essential Oil - just a drop at pulse-points every couple hours keeps away even horse-flies...and it's non-toxic unlike DEET.

Something that small, narrow and shallow...it'll help you find the holes, but that's about it. The cone that the transducer sends out isn't going to show you a whole lot...you'd pretty much have to be on top of structure to see it...or on top of the fish to see them. For the numbers - a 20o cone (which is standard for most Chirp units) will only show you a 1.75' circle of the bottom at 5' depth, a 1.05' circle at 3' depth. Formula is (depth x cone angle x .0175 = diameter of 'shown' area) - https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=206449.0

That'll work - that's 6AH - so at least most of the day. That battery you linked would need to be protected somehow. The one I linked is like most outdoor-rated batteries and is pretty water-resistant...long as you don't dunk it, it'd be fine. The finder itself...I don't worry about splashes or drips on my Lowrance Hook2 - that Garmin would also be pretty resistant to splashes...long as you don't dump buckets on it. Fish finders are designed for being on the water - even light rain isn't going to hurt them.

Best you're going to find is an 'ice fishing kit'...but that includes a portable battery. I don't know of any sonar unit that's 'self powered', most AA, C, D batteries don't have the reserve to run a unit like this more than an hour...maybe. Best bet is to get a light, rechargeable battery -this one is a 10AH, will run that Garmin all day long, and only weighs 7 pounds. https://www.amazon.com/SLA1097-Power-Patrol-Rechargable-Battery/dp/B004J2TEKW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=12v+10ah+battery&qid=1599959799&sr=8-4

I'm frogging/pitching on a Heavy rod with 50# Power Pro - drag is tight, but not cinched all the way down...a good size fish will pull line, but as @Cattsays, it's only a few turns of the spool at max.

Several of the lines have good crankbait rods. All depends on how much you want to spend. I'm running a Fury 705CB personally.

I tried several different FC lines and wasn't happy. I'm a Yo-Zuri Hybrid fan-boy. Strength-to-diameter ratio is great, seems to have good abrasion resistance and as long as you use KVD, it's very manageable.

Ya - my wife's idea of 'roughing it' is a hotel that doesn't have room service. Meanwhile - I could happily spend a week (or more) out in the wild with nothing more than what I can carry in my backpack.

(raises his hand) Sold my old powerboat (a runabout) years ago. My fishing vehicle is a self-modified canoe.

Pflueger 640 on a Diawa 1312 (6'6" ML/F) - my backup panfish rig...both bought in the 70s.

I have a Fuego CT on a H/F rod which I use for flip/pitch and frogs. Good distance, great breaking. Really the only difference between this and a Tatula CT is the T-Wing - otherwise they're identical.

I wish...

He pretends to be an elk herder, but really he's a misplaced Yooper.

Personally - I have no issues using a Medium-Light/Fast rod with my Mepps Aglias, Black Furys or Comets.

Too bad - I had it bookmarked and used it for reference often. Whelp - I'm not on FB...so no help with that from here.

Well, I'm in a canoe which I store in my garage. Between trips, the rods go in a rack that hangs above the canoe. Once I've rigged them up with my starting lures for a trip, they get secured between the rear and mid seats. At the launch, they get moved to the racks I built behind the rear seat.