MN Fisher

If you give me the co-ordinates, I'll look in my G-Earth Pro - the pic you supplied is too small to be of much use to these old eyes.

Not totally - you can use it with restrictions. 1 - No more than one arm can have a hook or lure (inline spinner for example) - the others have to be hookless, but you can put baits/lures on them "However, a Alabama (Umbrella/Yumbrella) would be legal if not more than one hook or artificial lure/bait is attached. An angler could place a single bait/lure with a hook on one of the wires and attach hookless spinners or plastic baits to the other wires." https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/regulations/fishing/alabamarig.html

Different plastics have different formulations that can react with each other. It's best to keep them in bags - either the original they came in or a 'heavy duty' bag. If I re-bag plastics, I use Plymor 4mil - usually the 6" wide x 4" high as they fit neatly in my 3607 open compartment boxes and store most of my plastics straight. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZZY972/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Longer worms can go into larger bags - they have up to 24"x24"... I've tried other brands - always come back to Plymor...they're just better.

This is the one I use with my SLA battery - does a great job and is on sale right now. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--automatic-2a-battery-charger--14982037?recordNum=6

No - that reel looks well filled...I still think 20# braid is a bit much on a spinner and if it is a light lure (got a weight on that?) then it very well could be the issue. For spinning rigs, I cast light lures (1/4oz and under) on 8# or less mono or copoly (YZH) on ML or UL rods...rarely my Medium.

Last trip out, caught a couple on a Pit Boss that I swapped during the day between a swim-jig, spinner and chatter. End of the day - even after the catches and swapping - it was still in good enough shape to go back in the bag after removal. I'm thrifty too - but that doesn't mean I leave plastics on hooks...good way to rust them as the scent/oils in the plastic attack the hooks long term.

^ This. Terminal tackle on the rigs before I go out, plastics put on when on the water just before I'm going to cast.

Mary Ann...it's always the quiet ones.

Starter jobs for being a guide? Not really. Learning things to become a guide: Take college level biology, limnology and ecology classes. Learn a lake - study contour maps, read DNR/F&W reports on the lake, be on the water as much as possible in all weather conditions without fishing...just wander around studying shoreline cover, weed types, etc - you're going to spend several hundred hours doing this. Fish the lake - pick a part and fish it under all weather conditions. use every rod/reel and lure in your arsenal, learn what the fish want and when. When you've got that part of the lake 'dialed in', pick another part and repeat - again, several hundred hours at this. Once you can consistently catch fish no matter the weather or time of year...then take out friends/family and practice being a guide for them. When you can consistently 'guide' them to the fish - then put your sign out...

I haven't found an issue with my Trion-30 which also has 10# drag max. Unless you're hauling in DD bass, should be more than enough. Realize that the 30 size for Pflueger is close to 2500 size for everyone else. Compare to the Shimano Sedona 2500 which has 9# max drag.

It's actually .009 according to Yo-Zuri's site ( http://yo-zuri.com/products/hybrid-275yd-clear/ ) - but what's 1/1000th of an inch. Here's the full chart.

Well, independent testing shows that YZH breaks at a higher weight than the stated pound-test - so I can easily see a near 8# bass being caught on 4# YZH.

Your high tomorrow is going to be our low tonight. Tomorrow for us - 93 (that's 34 for you Canucks.)

Actually - get a MinnKota Power Center box for the battery, Hook the positive from both the Yak System and the TM to the positive on the box, same with the negative. The box includes a 50amp breaker connected to the outer terminals. That way the TM is not trying to run through the 15amp breaker of the Yak System. Keeping the positive of the TM connected to the Yak System will probably trip the breaker every time you go higher than speed 2 on the TM, shutting down power to everything on the Yak.

Ya - looking over the info on the Ascend Yak Power System - they specifically state to NOT run your TM through it, it's only designed for 15amp max, and even my 30# Endura can pull twice that.

Ya, I got a couple Booyah Pad Crasher Jrs that are 1/4 oz, forget what my pair of 3/8oz frogs are.

J-Braid is supposedly good - I've used down to 20# Power Pro on a BC without issue. Ditto - I tried Spiderwire years ago and even if it's improved 200% by now...I still wouldn't use it. I always 'repack' my braid - sometimes after every trip. Over the course of time it's gonna get loose on the spool, and that's when dig-in starts to happen.

I've passed it on to a few on-line friends - wish I could help, but the dust-bunnies in my wallet are breeding.

I get so little time to fish as it is, I'm going to make the most of it. If I'm on the water, I'm fishing - whether that's casting half-a-dozen different lures (I have 8 rigs with me) at a spot, moving to an apparently likelier spot, or changing the lures on a rig to try something else...I'm working as much as I can to catch fish. Sips of coffee or what ever are between casts and if I need a cig, I'm puffing on it while casting/retrieving. As said, my time on the water is precious, so I make the most of it.

I'm still living paycheck-to-paycheck...Social Security for both of us. Money we had set aside in retirement plans had to be used for some medical emergencies some years back (ya, penalty paid), so we don't have a cushion. Some money in savings, but that's for any other emergencies that creep up. My truck is a 2001 that I baby as much as possible as replacing it is virtually impossible right now. This is why I use 'budget' gear and my 'boat' is a $500 canoe...there's really not even half-decent shore fishing near me...I get a yearly gift of a check from the parents, and the memo on it is 'For fun use only' - that's where I get my fishing money and when it's gone, that's it for the year. So, I get what I can afford and use what I have...fully.

I cast even 1/4oz frogs on a Heavy - some reels make it easier than others to toss lures at the bottom of the rod's range. If you have other reels, maybe swap around to find the best combo?

My prime reel for this is a Pflueger Supreme in 7.1:1 (29IPT), my secondary is a Pflueger President XT in 7.3:1 (31IPT)...I like around 30IPT for moving baits for when I want to burn them...I can always slow my cranking down for slow-rolls, harder for me to speed up my reeling.

Ya - want the speed to haul them out of the slop. I've got another Fuego in 6.3 on a Fury 705CB as my main crankbait rig...only 'dedicated' rig I have. I'm considering getting the 7.3 to put on the MH/F Aird, moving the Supreme to my M/F Aird which has a President currently.

I have two reels in that price-range that I'm using on Aird-X rods Pflueger Supreme - MH/F - spinner/chatter/buzzbaits, jigs, T-Rigs Diawa Fuego CT-XS - H/F - flip/pitch/punch, frogs, topwaters, Bubba-shot. The best reel of the pair - MagForce-Z beats standard magnetic brakes.

Thank you for that, Roger. Personally, I tried several different FC lines and decided to stick with nylon or copolymer - specifically YZH. Truthfully - I'm tempted to go with all YZH on all my non-braid reels, which is 8 of my 10 rigs...currently 4 have YZH as mainline. There any comparisons of copolymers vs monofilaments?