MN Fisher

Right now it's just a basic Lowrance Hook2-4...I am looking to upgrade to a Reveal - either 5 or 7. Not much room in the canoe for a large unit.

I got mine off Amazon.

My frogging reel is a... wait for it... Fuego CT-XS.

Ya - just enough to coat the gear-teeth. More than that actually slows things down.

Grease on gears - oil on bearings, bushings and level-wind - that's my maintenance routine anyway.

I just always use 'B' - since my drag is set for 1/3 to 1/2 the pound-test of the line, it's not really an issue and it's quick.

Who knows, Tom. They might be measuring the IPT using 2# Trilene, which a 50 yd cast won't affect it as much as a 50yd cast using 15# Big Game - spool won't have 'emptied' near as much.

Personal decision - I'd just let it slide and keep it if everything else is functioning properly...only you can decide if not having the switch is an issue.

Long as the reel is properly maintained - your drag should never fail. I've got a 40+ year old Pflueger 640 and a 40+ year old Garcia Cardinal 562 that the drag still works almost like new. Referring to earlier - only time I ever switch off the anti-reverse is to let out line when I'm tying on lures...never when fighting a fish.

If you're determined to have back-reeling capability - then yes. I almost never switch off the anti-reverse on any of my spinners. I use the drag instead of back-reeling - it's more controllable.

If you're using a spinning reel - light enough line and a light-power rod will be able to cast that with little problems. A Medium-Light, Light or Ultra-Light rod with a 1000 or even 500 size reel loaded with 4# or 6# test is what I'd use for that

Well I'll be - they removed the switch on the new versions. More and more spinning reels are getting rid of the anti-reverse switch - which is a shame in my opinion.

I've put U-40 on both my Furys and my old Diawa 1312 - it made the cork a little firmer, but there's still some 'give' when I grip it. One or two THIN coats - people may have drenched it and that's why it's so hard for them.

Line or no line - doesn't matter If the handle screwed in smoothly, then it should be good...make sure it's tight but not too tight.

The switch might move - but it's not disengaging the anti-reverse as it should - so it's a bad reel...happens occasionally even with the top-end reels that cost hundreds.

Okay - it's a bad reel and needs to be exchanged as the anti-reverse switch isn't working.

On the underside there is a flip switch - barely visible in this pic. Flipped one way, the anti-reverse is on, flipped the other way it's off...should be marked.

You'd basically have to create a new master for the mold. I use to make copies of parts for plastic scale models using molds and casting plastic - to create something identical in looks but smaller, I'd have to hand-carve a new master. Mold making materials aren't designed to shrink to a smaller size.

Totally agree and I'm in the same boat - fixed income and little to no spare for equipment. Get what you can afford, don't push yourself for equipment that's out of your reasonable budget. Pflueger President on an Aird-X caught this.

Though the retrieve rate is a little fast for my liking - jigs, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, T-Rigs are all doable with that combo. Treble lures (crank/jerk) are also doable...but a Fast Action isn't ideal for those.

Reel size? Length? Power? I see a number of options with that combo that determine which technique(s) I'd use it for.

Only if I can find a time machine.

I'd say more like a mushroom - kept in the dark and fed...ummm...ya.

There's lots of bass fishermen out there using nothing but spinners. In my arsenal, the only techniques I couldn't use with my current spinners is heavy cabbage fishing - flip/pitch/punch/etc. But I could get a Heavy power spinning rod and a 3000-4000 size reel and that would take care of that spot. Finesse for me is spinning only, but T-Rigs, swim jigs, crankbaits, jerkbaits and others I can do either spinning or casting.