MN Fisher

Spinning reel - take it off then put it back on making sure there's good tension when spooling it up. Baitcaster - I won't go below 20# braid on a BC, most will say no less than 30#. Light braid on a BC is just asking for trouble.

If so, use craws a variety of ways. T-Rig, Carolina or even Bubba-Shot with an EWG, Jig-n-Craw as @Catt suggested, you could even use smaller craws like the Z-Man Crawz on a drop-shot or Ned. So many ways of rigging a craw...

Given the 'hype' that's been going on without any type of results...I'm no longer interested.

I think about 10$ of my gear/lures were purchased in store...the rest was online. Of course I got 99% of this years shopping done during Black Friday through early February, just a few things since then including replacing one crankbait a Northern stole from me early in the season. The online market has hit the brick & mortar stores hard, but I've been a 'computer geek' for decades, so it really doesn't bother me too much.

Ya...they'd be great to have...if they were affordable to those of us on limited budgets. For now - ProLatch 3700 and 3750 with one compartment in each box dedicated to Silica Gel Packs...that's my system.

I never have coins on me except when I'm at the laundromat. Besides, having worked in electronics with #2 and #4 screws on circuit boards...I know what the limits are. Never had an issue - but the warning is good for others.

I've yet to need to remove the side-plate on the water - but if I do, I have a Leatherman...

Ya, Seton is always good for a no-skunk day. Just wish I had the time and the canoe the 'range' to get in during my usual 4-hour outing. Nice fish. Course right now, I'm landlocked - wife's respite worker quit so until we find a new one, I can't get the time to go out.

I've got the Fuego CT (Tatula CT without the T-Wing) and the only thing I use the screw for is to remove the side plate. Never had to loosen/tighten it to adjust the brakes. Rod around that price...go up a bit and get a Dobyns Fury - in whatever power you're looking to use.

Rubber core sinkers - lay the line in the groove, twist the ends, holds the weight in place. Otherwise do what I've done for over 50 years - use regular split shot and deal with it. https://www.scheels.com/p/water-gremlin-rubbercor-sinker/03877501012.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=unpaidlistings?src=google_shipping_50

Depending on the weight of the lure, it'll either rise or at least stay at one depth...has to do with the resistance of the tail in the water. Tail down makes it tend to sink.

1/4oz Spinnerbait with a small trailer - maybe an RI Little Dipper with the tail up so it rises in the water column Donkey Rig Beetle Spin with a curly tail Grub That's just off the top of my head.

I'm a Jeff fan too - so is the wife. ("I KEEL YOU!") Bill Engvall is another favorite of ours.

4/0 or 5/0 - even a 2#-4# bass can swallow a 3/0 if they take it right. If we're talking 6#+ bass - go to a 7/0...I'm not joking, they have BIG mouths (maybe cause of the name) #6 to 1/0 depending entirely on the size of the perch in your waters. Ya - can't do both with the same hook size...sorry.

Ya - trebles I do a sweep. Jigs - even bladed jigs - I do a 'heave'.

Ya, I'd go Medium if you want new gear - or haul out the old ML. I don't go MH until the total weight reaches 1/2.

I'm just lucky the guy across the street is a mechanic. His day job is jet-engine mechanic for Sun Country, his 'part-time home' job is general mechanic for all vehicles - cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, boats. He does work on my truck for parts-cost and a case of beer - part of the payback for letting him park his 23' Jet boat in my backyard as he doesn't have a spot to park it in his yard.

Tossing into that slop with a UL rig? Are you wanting to lose lures or even break your rod? If you plan on frogging, and want to stick with spinning gear - 3000 size reel with 20# braid (minimum) on a heavy rod. Keeping to a budget - the Penn Prevail 2 Inshore rod would fit the bill fitted with whatever reel you want.

It's like asking for a universal rod that can toss 1/16oz Mepps spinners as well as 5oz swimbaits...doesn't exist. My current selection of hooks is around 16 different ones, from #6 baitholders to 5/0 flipping hooks...and I know quite a few people here would probably think my selection to be 'barely adequate'.

Depends on how many hours you plan on running the TM between charges. Example is a MinnKota Endura 40# - will draw 42 amps at max thrust, 8 amps at min thrust, speeds 2-4 take 12, 15, and 21 amps respectively. So to run it at speed 3 for an hour takes 15Amp-Hours (AH). So figure how many hours at what speed, add it all up, multiply by 1.5...and that's the minimum AH rating you should get for the deep-cycle battery. Hooking batteries in parallel add the AH rating together - so two 75AH batteries hooked negative-negative/positive-positive will give you 150AH. I'd also suggest a Group 29 or Group 31...that's the physical size of the battery irrespective of the AH rating.

I toss chatterbaits on the same rigs I toss spinners and jigs. 7' MH/F Aird-X and 7' MH/F Laguna

If it is the the PWM - putting a rectifier circuit before the fish finder may clear it up.

The line 'specified' is just for capacity comparison. You can put 25# Mono/FC or even 65# braid on that reel - or any other BC other than a small-spool BFS for that matter.

I'll split the difference - co-polymer, specifically YZH.

I checked there first - they're out of stock...waiting on Pflueger/Pure Fishing to make more. I think right now, E-Bay is your best bet for getting one fairly soon.