MN Fisher

I'll double-down on the Aird-X. I have 1 spinning and 3 baitcasting and I'm very happy with them. Far as the reel - I'm a Pflueger fan from way back (40+ years) and in your price range there's the Trion (I have 2 and like them), President (two of those also, good reels), President-XT and Supreme.

That's what I'm saying - you don't connect negative and positive to just the positive. Move the negative of the TM to the negative of the battery. Otherwise at the very least, you're going to blow fuse(s)/circuit breaker(s).

From what I'm seeing, you've got both the negative and positive from the TM connected to the positive on the battery - that's going to create a short that can damage anything connected to the power. Negative (black) from the TM should connect to the negative terminal on the battery - where the negative for the Yak power system is connected.

This...definitely. Make as small a splash as possible.

I don't have enough spare cash to have two sets of everything. I have one set, some of it mid-range, some of it cheap - my spinnerbaits F.E. are Jawbone and SK Banshee...both DSG exclusives for like $3 each. I've lost one lure this year, a Rapala Rattlin' Rap to a Pike - and replacing it took a little finagling...ya, our household budget is that tight.

I'm one of those who think - 'You jump out of perfectly good airplanes on purpose? What hospital did you escape from?' Thing is, I said that to my sister who skydives...she laughed and said, "They just haven't caught me yet!"

If I had the patience to deal with the Y-bones, I'd probably eat some of the ones I've caught...but they all get tossed back. Far as the trailers - northern, muskie, walleye, sauger - all those VERY toothy species are going to rip them up.

I use a Ranger Trout and Bass net - landed bass and pike with it. Not a top-end net by any stretch, but it does the job for me. https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/ranger-nets-trout-and-bass-2200-series-landing-net-16rneuprmtrtntxxxfac/16rneuprmtrtntxxxfac

I doubt that'll happen. Glenn has enough sponsors, who probably pay for the advertising space and his willingness to hawk their goods now and then, that he doesn't need the 'rank and file' to give him money to pay for the server and site maintenance.

Na - Eelpout Resource.

@Delaware Valley Tackle- Mike, can you help this guy out?

To be honest, I only do weightless/wacky with the BC if it's heavier plastics - Senkos, Pit Boss, Missile D'Stroyers, etc. If I'm using lighter plastics, it's on the spinning rig. Or if I'm skipping any - still trying to learn how to skip with a BC. ?

For reference, my other two Aird-X rigs are: Pflueger Supreme on a Aird-X MH/F - Spinners/chatters/buzzbaits, jigs, heavier T-Rigs (3/8oz to 3/4oz) Diawa Fuego CT-XS on a Aird-X H/F - Flip/pitch/punch, Bubba-shot, frogs, heavier topwaters (Super Spooks, WP-90 & 110)

Well, he did ask for a BC rig. I have an M/F Spinning rig I use for the same techniques Pflueger Trion-30 (2500 size) Diawa Aird-X M/F (ya, my spinning Aird-X)

I haven't had any issues tossing a weightless T-Rig or even a Wacky rigged Senko decent distances with that rig. I've also been impressed with the sensitivity of the Aird-X rods (I have 3 BC and 1 Spinning)...great rod for the price-point.

Low end of the scale is what I use for weightless/light T-Rigs (1/8oz and under) Pflueger President Diawa Aird-X M/F Nearing the end of my 3rd season with that setup, and it's been good to me.

A 40# thrust TM will take about 40amps of power to run at full speed - that's 40AH for an hour of travel time. Running at minimum speed it still takes about 5amps - so 5AH for an hour. A Sealed Lead-acid battery of 100AH will run under $200 and weigh about 60lbs A Lithium battery of 100AH will weigh under 30lbs - but they start at around $800 So, affordable or lightweight - can't have both.

Any line running over that spool lip is going to get abraded. Ya, you might be able to pull a fish out now and then, but I wouldn't use that reel at all unless you replace the spool. The bail is also dinged up, but if the roller - which I can't see from that pic - is is good shape, it's not as big an issue. I'd hit the hobby shop for 2000 grit polishing paper myself if you go that route.

Actually, what you do is tie the line to the spool, then a piece of tape over the Arbor Knot to hold it in place...then spool up the line. Braid on a bare spool without a way to secure it can slip. I just put backing on the spool - enough nylon-mono so that 60 yds or so of braid fills to the top. The mono prevents the slippage and since I rarely cast a braid-equipped reel more than about 50yds, there's plenty of line. Also cheaper when you do need to replace the braid - a 300yd source-spool gives me 5 full loads.

Rapala does NOT own Bagley Baits "Jermo Rapala and Bill Cullerton now own and run the Bagley Bait Company." "The corporate name of the company is “First Cast”" "Jermo Rapala, a celebrated lure designer and the grandson of Rapala founder Lauri Rapala, but is no longer associated with Rapala lures." https://www.theledger.com/news/20110714/remembering-bagley-baits-ownership-changes/1

I run 10# Stren Original on my President BC - not an issue so far.

Some crossover - but it looks like it'll work better...does seem low though...with spinners you want the top of the line about 1/8" below the rim of the spool no matter what line type you're using. What I'd do is after every trip out, pull off about 1/2 the line and reel it back in under good tension...running it through the back pages of a thick book sitting on the floor works.

Heck - I'd be ecstatic with a used Lund Angler II DLX in good condition.

Mine gets washed irregularly - every time it rains...

Okay - I hope you're doing C&R because even though I do eat bass, I wouldn't eat anything caught in that pond given what you've said about it.