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MN Fisher

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Everything posted by MN Fisher

  1. Okay - so Cooks Bay. From what I've heard on the grapevine around here - Seton Lake has had some good luck...and it's just a hop-skip-jump from that launch. Friday I didn't get out in the canoe - issues - but was tossing Power Worms on a Gammy 3/32 finesse jig and a 3.5" Paddle-tail...caught nothing from shore. Hopefully Wednesday will be better as I've corrected the issue I had with the canoe.
  2. Phelps or Spring Park? I live on Phelps Island and when I had a power-boat used Spring Park most of the time. Now if I launch near the house, it's Phelps. Wednesday I'll see if North Arm has any of them...
  3. If you do that - make sure to have 'protection'. I have my battery in a MinnKota Power Center box. The TM runs off the main terminal connection - 50amp circuit breaker. The two accessory ports have built in 5amp circuit breakers. From one I have an accessory plug with a 5amp fuse running to a switch to which my sonar is connected - with it's supplied fuse installed between the switch and the sonar...triple protection. I've got the other accessory port hooked through a switch to a dual USB port where I plug in my camera and tablet...again, the built in 5amp circuit breaker and a 5amp fuse in the accessory plug for protection there.
  4. Nice thing about those -you can find them just about anywhere. My local BP station has a bait and tackle area - they even have tanked minnows instead of bagged ones - they carry the Bull Shot in all but the 1/64oz size. Course it probably helps that WG is a local company...
  5. Sounds like an all-day thing to me. I go out for 4-5 hours a trip and my 75AH is less than 1/2 drained at the end of it.
  6. I use it to get a 'proper' amount of backing on the reel before putting on the mainline. I use the following website to calculate how much backing to get 60-70 yds of mainline on, then use the line-counter to get that amount of backing spooled up. https://www.pattayafishing.net/fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/
  7. My general purpose MH/F rig is spooled with 40# Sufix 832 with 12# Yo-Zuri Hybrid as a leader...just for comparison's sake.
  8. Ya, it's not impossible to backlash - I've done it a few times on both my Fuegos...8.1 with 50# PP and the 6.3 with 12# YZH. I will admit it's much less frequent a happening than with either my Supreme or Presidents.
  9. The screw in the center of the mag-adjust dial - unscrew that and the cover comes off. Only thing 'bad' about the Fuegeo.
  10. Ya, cleaning the basement a month back saw me finding my old Diawa 1312 (6'6" ML/F) rod that I hadn't used in 30+ years. Cleaned up nice, even the cork which I then sealed. Now I have another backup ML/F rod...might put the old Cardinal 562 spinner on that.
  11. One thing that might help - put on backing. I've only got about 60 yds of the 50# PP on top of 10# Big Game. Cheaper in the long run and does help prevent dig-in. Plus if you have to replace the braid, it's only the 60 yds instead of a full spool-worth.
  12. I can't confirm that it helps - but I use it on my mono as well as my YZH...good soak before spooling up, couple spritzes night before a trip.
  13. Wow - I'm lost now as I use 50# Power Pro on my frog rig and haven't had that issue.
  14. This sounds like the main issue to me. If I've spent the day casting frogs or other light lures on my braid, part of my 'after trip maintenance' is to unspool a good amount then reel it back in under good tension.
  15. Only new vehicle I ever bought was a 1998 Chevy WT-1500. Had the 4.3 Vortec and a 5-speed manual. Friend borrowed it one weekend to do some moving and when she brought it back commented, 'That thing is quicker off the line than my CRX!' When the WT got totaled in an accident in late 2015 (other driver took the blame at the scene) used the insurance money and a loan from my dad to get my current ride - a 2001 Silverado LS...the one in my cover photo on my profile page. I was a Mopar guy until the WT, now I'm a Chevy fan.
  16. It's a bit finicky to set up and sometimes the line slips. It'll get you in the ball-park, but I wouldn't depend on it being totally accurate. Yes, I have one and use it - it's close enough for my tastes.
  17. While you could use 8# on a UL rig - I try to keep to 4#...I'd go 6# max. I run 6# on one of my two ML rigs, 8# on the other - my UL rig has 4#.
  18. I'd just dig up the money somehow and replace them. The GX2 is what I call 'break-toss' rods. The labor charge would be about the same for those as for a NRX or Xtasy. Even my Aird-X rods I'd replace in case of breakage instead of repairing them.
  19. Okay - InvisX is narrower than other brands so that should be alright on the 30. If you're looking inexpensive for the second reel - just get another Trion-30 - it'll handle the 14# NanoFil braid with leader.
  20. Ya, I've got a 75AH battery in the canoe...rarely run it full out. Also a paddle in clamps for short moves or emergency backup. Yep - always keep 15% reserve - so that 50AH battery...don't drain it more than 42AH - so 1.4hrs at top speed for the C2-30.
  21. Considering that the main sponsor of said pro is paying for the boat and the pro just 'borrows' it for tournaments, it's kind of a moot point.
  22. I wouldn't put 12# on a 30 - a 35, yes. I'm running 10# Stren Original on my 30 and that's about as 'large' a line as I'd use on that.
  23. I've got the C2 30 on my canoe and it pushes it along quite well. It's on it's 3rd season and still having no problems with it. Note that at speed 5 it consumes 30amps of power - so a 30AH deep cycle battery will only run it for an hour at top speed.
  24. Fuego CT-XS - 8.1:1, aluminum frame, Magforce-Z braking system. I have one that I use for flip/pitch/punch/frogs and larger topwaters (WP-110, Super Spook, etc)

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