sal669

I voted "plastic worm" but spinnerbaits and crankbaits are close seconds. A topwater bite always "takes the cake"

Tectan Premium Plus 0.30mm (0.0118" breaking @18.9lb); That would be similar diameter to #10 Yo Zuri Hybrid.

Very nice !

I played with it at BPS and it feels smooth and solid; a lot of reel for the money. I almost bought one, but I decided to wait a bit to accumulate some more BPS reward points. I'd like to know the opinion of somebody who "field tested" it ! Tight lines

For me it's lure weight ! >Less than 1/4oz = spinning >Heavyer than 1/4oz = baitcaster Power fishing and finess fishing is relative; what is power fishing for me might be finess fishing for the guys down south... God bless!

How about this one: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0053136115377a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=nemire&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=nemire&noImage=0 I allways wanted one of these and never got one :-? I think I gonna get it on my next trip to BPS or Cabelas :

Maybe these ? http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/readonly-item.jsp?id=114403&itemTemplate=products-found&cmCat=EOF

JMHO A discontinued Stardic ($99). Dick's Sporting Goods in my neck of the woods still had a couple last week. Next would be the Symetre...

All of the above. For the guys who think you need sensitivity, I'll say YES. But, you get plenty of it with a Shimano Clarus or Compre, Fenwick Eagle GT or HMX , All Star Classic, Berkley Series One, or a middle of the road BPS or Cabelas for that matter. All of them are under $100. If you can't feel what your lure is doing in the water while using one of the above rods, you have to have a problem with your feeling/ nerv terminations in your hands. By using a certain rod/reel combo for the same task ALL THE TIME, you develop a feel for it, you start feeling your lure. You don't need to be hit with a 2x4 anytime your lure hits an obstacle in the water, you should learn how YOUR ROD feels when it hits an obstacle. Go out and spend a couple minutes knocking some wood,rock or weeds in shallow water so you can KNOW when you are gonna hit it, but close your eyes and concentrate on the FEEL. Back to the original question: NO, you don't need to rob a bank to successfully fish those techniques: almost any modern graphite (or some good composite) rod has plenty of sensitivity for it.

I have one Capricorn, served me good for one season. It's a no fuss reel (nothing to write home about ), but what would you expect in that price range ($80?). Had NO problem with it so far. Hope it helps

Tectan Premium Plus ; light greenish/yelowish is the only color I can find it (Cabelas) http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0030000119135a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=tectan&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=tectan&noImage=0

The last "In-Fisherman" magazine has an article about RED lines, lures and markings on lures. You guys might wanna check it out. Good stuff ! Red Cajun might have the right chemical composition for a good line, but the color is NOT to the fishermans advantage. Tight lines

Hey, RW, What diameter is the #12 ? I might give it a try this season. Cancel that ! I just clicked on your link and "figured it out". Tight lines

Patiece, the BPS Classic is just arround the corner.

Way to go, Muddy... Do you have a picture to prove it ???

Fireline is one of the worst braids you can buy. IMHO: Braided line is NOT for crankbaits !!! One exception: ripping lipless CBs through weeds. Braids have almost zero strech and you would ripp the trebble hooks out of the fishes mouth on the hookset or later, while you are fighting it. If you decide to use braid anyhow, make sure you are using a SLOW action rod, and back of the drag.

I read somewhere that there is a "progression" in every fisherman's career: - just cach something -cach lots of fish -cach the biggest fish -Just enjoy a day on the water I voted "none", but finding a "c"note wouldn't hurt.

Almost full on spinning reels, full on baitcasters... Most of the manufacturers recomand 1/8" (less than full) for spinning reels, but that's just a guide line. It depends on the managebility of the line and the experience of the user. My $.02

Use a permanent marker (sharpie) to color the first couple feet (6-10ft)from the leader. You'll be OK

I saved this from an older post: http://www.georgescustomrods.com/split_your_grip.htm Hope it helps

With all due respect, JHOFFMAN, I think a 9ft/ 8wt combo for NH smallies and trout is overkill. You take all the fun out of the game. I landed carp up to 16lb on 6wt combo without to much fuss. As long as your tippet holds, you can put serious pressure with a 6wt. A good drag is usefull, but if you don't have it, back off your drag and palm the reel. I agree with the "large arbor " issue. I recomanded a 7 wt just because of the air resistance and weight of the poppers and other bass flies Tony might wanna use. Tight lines

IMHO, you kinda doing it backwards !! It is wrong to buy rods & reels and than think what to do with them. Better way is to decide the type of fishing/ lure/average weight of the lure based on what kind off water you will be most often fishing, and then buy the proper tackle. I would return all that stuff and start over again. I would start with : > 6-6 med power/fast or X-fast action for most "slow" fished baits (need sensitivity) up to 3/8 oz (soft plastics, light jigs, etc / maybe some SBs ?)(I prefer mod-fast for SBs, but there are guys here that will recomand faster rods; it's up to you) > 7ft MH / Fast or XF for heavier of the same stuff,(I like mod-fast action for SBs, though), some frogging, (?)C-rigs,etc > 6-6 med/mod for "fast(er)" moving baits(shallow and mid depth cranks, SBs ,Buzzers,etc); mod-fast action would work if you use a "strechy" line (mono, some copoly) and back-off the drag some. For reels, a 6.3:1 would work as an "all arround", you would want a lower gear ratio for deeper CBs (5.x:1). That's just a starting point. Maybe it would be better for you to start with one combo and 1 or 2 bait categories, and after you become proeficiet, branch out to some other category ??? I will not recomand brands/models but as a general advise: buy quality at bargain price, don't buy cheap... Tight lines PS: ask for advice/opinion before you act, we'll be glad to help !

10# P-Line CX, clear.

I kinda have a "dual" approach (slow-agressive or agressive-slow), depending on bass' seasonal cycle ( prespawn, postspawn,etc.) and weather pattern (stable weather, front just passing through, etc). If the fish is in a "high metabolism" season: >If the weather is favorable(stable or dropping barometer) I'll go agressive first, then slow down and try to get a couple more bites in the spots I get bites. > raising barrometer (blue skies/cold front) , I'll start out slow and throw a reaction bait only after I don't get bit anymore in a certain spot. In "slow metabolism season", I'm slow/finess with a couple casts of a reaction bait in every spot

No problem, brother !