PhishLI

A Tatula SV by its nature isn't a reel for bomb casting. It can't bomb baits whatsoever unless the bait is totally aerodynamic, so this isn't what I was suggesting. I own this reel, and extending it's useful casting range is desirable if it's the only casting reel you own. There are parts of the seasons where bass won't be on the bank, or even within a decent cast out. They'll be farther out, and if you can reach them you'll have a chance. If not, you'll blank. All of my local fishing is in no-boat ponds from 6-30 acres. I live this type of fishing, so I've been down this road. Your best bet, if you want to be truly versatile, is to split the budget between two casting rods. A 6'6" and a 7'3" or 7'6". One for tree'd ponds, and one for open water. Swap the reel over where necessary. There are perfectly fine $100 casting rods out there, or steal from your spinning budget for two $150 casting rods and a $100 spinning rod. There are plenty of perfectly fine $100 spinning rods out there. I have a Tatula LT3000 on a Tatula XT 7'MF. I also have a Ballistic 2500 on a Zodias 6'8"M. The actual differences are negligible, IMO.

Then I'd opt for a casting rod between 7'3"-7'6". The Tat SV will be happier with the extra length. Here you can dial the brakes down to 4-6 for greater distance with most baits using a power-sweep cast instead of harder casts and higher brake settings with a shorter rod between 6'6" and 6'10". This reel in particular seems to be helped more than usual by rod length, so if hitting targets farther out is what you're interested in this is the way to go. The Ark Essence 7'6" MHF has been working well for me chucking any bait under the sun from 1/4 oz to 1oz.

Are trees along the bank a factor where you expect to fish, or do these ponds have open shorelines?

OK, but that isn't what you wrote last month. In that case 75 feet isn't a bomb cast, but let's put that aside because we clearly see things differently, and nearly in reverse. You wrote: "what is the SV BOOST experience in plain words to you? I know what the marketing blurb is, but what lures, weights, presentations does it come into play for you? I might not be taking advantage of it. For me, I run reels loose now, negligible spool tension, and turn up the brakes to my liking. If I’m throwing more than 3/4 oz and throwing shorter I might turn up the spool tension to save my thumb a little. For both reels I’ve been using them in the ‘normal’ bass lure range of 3/8-1/2 oz most of the time, and the ‘average’ casting range up to 25 yards or so." Mag brakes require a controlled power stroke when dialed in for distance casting, or you'll blow up instantly. The oppositional forces are built up slower during startup than friction brakes and are in play throughout the greater part of mid-ascent through the apex, then decrease gradually through the descent. This is where some feel that standard SV air brakes are choked off. On the other hand, friction brakes are on fast then behave as if they're off faster, depending on their design, which allows for a whip cast. If we don't agree on this, then we won't agree on this particular matter, and that's OK. No big deal, truly.

I'm going to make the assumption that you're primarily making short-ish casts with a pretty flat trajectory. Yes? You're primarily fishing from a yak, right? If I'm correct than I submit that here a reel's braking system is pretty much meaningless where spool weights are close. These are generally thumb-heavy casts to begin with. Even a Black Max will do fine here. The real contrast between the Met B's 4 block SVS Infinity and the G's SV Boost is shown when you're pushing for distance with higher arc casts with wind catching or lighter wind catching baits from a standing position, which is something I do often. Most bass baits are wind catching to some degree, yes? While the Met B's brakes don't technically turn off close to the apex just before midcast where gravity begins to drag down spool speed, they effectively do, and you're on your own. Throw in some wind with something like a flat-sided crank and you're really on your own unless you've calibrated your stroke-to-bait's weight perfectly, then you still need to stay extra sharp. Just an aside: When they finally incorporate the 6 brake blocks into the met B I'd bet it'll be better. On the other hand, I can dial down the G's SV brake to fluff and recover for max distance and not worry about it running away on the ascent, mid cast, or the descent. It's beautifully calibrated for this duty. I'm not claiming to cast thumb-free here. I'm monitoring the spool, but not leaning into the line and slowing down the spool to keep it in check. Earlier in this thread I mentioned my buddy who got a Met B a few months ago and struggled with it. He went away to PA for vacation and sent me a fish pic. I asked if he caught it on the new rig, and how he was doing with his struggles. At that point he said he was doing better, but it was as if the line was burning his thumb from trying to keep the spool from blowing up. I tried not to laugh, but I did. True story. It isn't a surprise to me though as I've watched my friends fluff up, blow up, and pick out over-runs way more with MGL reels than any other type. Maybe they're all just sucky casters. Perhaps this braking system is too advanced for their meager skills. Me, I fish in the dark mostly, and can cast with anything without blowing up while distance/power casting into open water, but it isn't really a pleasure with a Met B. It is with the G though. No worries or surprises with it. So there it is, IMO. You see them as interchangeable in a certain context, which if I'm correct about my assumptions about how you fish they may be, and I see them as quite different in a certain context where the experience is quite different. P.S. My buddy's fish pic mentioned earlier. He's a big kid. T'was a good one.

My best fish so far this year for shape. Too bad my brother held the phone sideways and had a finger partially over the flash which washed the pic. I couldn't be mad though because it was the 1st time he was with me when I caught a 7+. His reaction was priceless. Tried a ton of color/contrast edits and sort of salvaged it.

You hit targets by locking your eyes on to them regardless of casting/pitching technique. The rest is muscle memory and self calibration built up over time. A dose of god given talent is the icing on the cake. YMMV.

How is it that you've claimed to have owned them, yet you're still asking for opinions on them?

It's cooler than cool. What's the matter for you?

I'd go on a rampage.

If you had no idea of the price difference beforehand, then fished them side by side without fidget spinning them first, I think "most" people would think it's pretty much a toss up unless: (1)You're affected by 1.2 ounces. Personally I can fish an 8 ounce reel mounted on a 5 ounce rod all day long if the setup is reasonably balanced and never feel fatigued in the slightest. My lower back would start barking before that happens, but that's just me. If for whatever reason owning a super light reel spins your top, then get the Steez. If you come from multiple generations of accountants who never did physical activity, then get the Steez. If that's the case, 1.2 ounces will take you down fast, man. Scary.? (2)You have a hand size and shape that dictates one is more comfortable than the other. There's no certainty here unless "you" feel them both for yourself. There's no such thing as universal ergonomics, AFAIK. Everyone is different. The good news here is that you'll be sitting pretty regardless of which one you choose. They're both magnificent user friendly reels.

Not at all, Tom. Set the brakes at 8 on the Zillion SV and anyone can mindlessly cast a true 1/4oz through 1 oz without barely thumbing the spool. Can't do that with a 2020 Met without it being precisely dialed in, and even then you'd better have a sharp thumb. I've fished these reels side by side, both with 15lb fluoro, and while I didn't backlash it, I needed to lean on the Met's spool to keep it in check. It's pretty wild, and just wants to fluff up whereas I could fish with the Zillion SV blindfolded. The OP is simply going to have to figure it out. My buddy had fits with his and was mystified for a while before he finally nailed it down.

Jay, I hit "W" lake 2 weeks ago. It's rough there, choked out and mostly topped off, and so is "G" lake. Pretty much the same situation, except "G' is a bit more workable on the southern end. Try to work "G" from Roe blvd early am. The bait is loaded up in the endless shore to shore mats beginning at the dead end ramps all the way up to the northern ends of both lakes. The attached post is from "W" lake for anyone who's interested.

My swimbaiting buddy has the 7'3" and 7'9". He's happy with both, but loves the 7'3" for chucking accurately into gaps while yakkin'.

Tranquilo, papi, tranquilo. He's saying the Zillion G gears are great. No need to smoke a tailpipe, Giuseppe.

On a spinning reel, yes, but not on a bait caster. Agreed, and I do what I can with the rod when I can, but often need to winch them on runs before they get back into junk again. It's always hairy.

Agreed. Correct, but I'm inclined to put stock in an opinion or observation by @iabass8 more than most when it comes to Daiwa. This isn't an option where I fish. Our lakes are one big shore-to-shore weed with lily pads, so we have no choice but to keep the drag tighter than we'd like to, or end up tightening it mid-fight. Bass swim into pads and dive into weeds. Just fighting them through the pads to keep them from wrapping up puts plenty of stress on the gear train. Besides that, winding down on the slack and pulling up again puts every bit of stress on the interface of the pinion and gear teeth. I avoid talking about things I have no experience with, and definitely dislike extrapolating or relying on anecdotes, but in this case I have. My buddy, who fishes where I do, has a new-ish Steez SV TW. He's dragged plenty of solid fish through what I've described above, and his aluminum gears are as smooth as ever. Also, he's been up at his cottage in NH alot this summer and has bagged a ton of big smallies with it. In my experience, if a reel is bound to go geary, then this type of duty will make it happen quickly, but it hasn't. This is close enough to proof for me that the JDM G can deal with tough fishing. Both have larger tooth hardened AL gears. In addition, my Quantum Vapor PT with its aluminum main gear is as smooth as ever, and it's freaky smooth, even after catching plenty of fish and dragging several 5+ lbers through pad fields and weeds. The fact that it has a double bearing crankshaft and double bearing supported pinion certainly helps, but it's still a $149 reel. If a budget aluminum geared Banax reel can hold up to what I put it through I'm not going to stress over what "might" happen someday to a $349 aluminum geared Daiwa. Not these days. Life's too short.

I kept it real when I texted my wife last night: Wut's for dinna?

Not so fast. You might be surprised. There's a well know swimbaiter up in Maine who's come close. I believe his PB is 7-13. Plus, he's caught plenty of 6lb class fish too. Good ones up there, just like my area. There's something about northeast coastal areas.

Only on some spinning reels, and it has nothing to do with visibility. Otherwise it's straight whatever for purposes of sink rate, stretch, or to avoid fouling treble baits. I've caught more fish using straight 30lb braid than any other type.

Do what you want, but do you think the resistance of a spinner or crank bait puts more stress on gears than winding in a fighting fish? Don't be silly. These aren't the junk micro-module aluminum gears in the '16 Met, and a member here with 2 two year old JDM Gs has said several times that his are still smooth as when new.

DOH! Bought it new? Return it.

Yes. 10-15lb braid to leader and most of your troubles will evaporate as long as you follow the rules and control slack with your rod. Which one. Details?

Once you've twisted the line enough to cough up furballs there's no coming back with XL, and 10lb XL is not great on smaller spinners with light baits and slack line. Drop down. It has nothing to do with your rod.

I'd bet you'd be happy with the XT, especially if you like a crisp MHF. Personally I like it quite a bit more than a FR734, plus you get a down-loop hook keeper which is great for leaving skin-hooked plastics skin-hooked.