Jig Man

I saw a real good video of Shimano Reel Cleaning Maintenance. It should be all you need.

Like Tom stated check the plugs. If you replace them make sure you get the correct ones. Also check the plug wires. Are you running non ethanol 91 octane fresh gasoline?

Is it possible that you took in water over the stern by shutting down too quickly? I've had a couple of boats that would do that if I pulled up too abruptly.

If they are actually deleted then as far as I know they are gone. Do you have another unit networked with it?

One thing that has not been mentioned is taxes. Don't forget state sales taxes and federal excise tax. They will come into play not only in product sales but also in record keeping. Here in MO when I looked into starting a bait company the government said I'd have to keep record of all customers and charge them sales tax which would have to be forwarded to the state. If you don't want this to become an overbearing burden for you, you will have to figure some kind of profit. Bait making is quite time consuming and takes a dedicated space or workshop. Good luck on your project.

I can tell you how a lot of guys have their boats. I used to be the sales manager at a boat dealership. Many customers could ill afford what they wanted. They would not even have the money to pay sales tax and wanted it financed in the deal. They also financed for as long as any bank would take them. Many of them would finance for 15 years at interest rates over 20%. What they did not understand was it took several years before the principal on the payment was larger than the interest. All they were interested in knowing was "How much is the payment?"

I run seafoam in some of my engines all year long. On the battery situation not charging them for months is not good. Check the water. If it is low add then charge.

CORRECT!

I use 6 lb fluoro on my bait caster ned rod and 3/32 oz jig heads with a Curado 70 XG. It works great but has a bit of trouble with 1/16 oz heads.

I don't have that rod but I use my spinnerbait rod for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, jigs and worms sometimes top water.

I am not running that particular motor. I have the ulterra because I have broken ribs that haven't healed properly and needed the automatic stow feature. I run Lowrance units and put the total scan transducer on it. I bought the mount and the cable guard from them. It works great for me. I'd buy it again in a heart beat.

I did it for a few years. I caught everything but bass on it so I quit trying.

Warped the lid so much it would not close. Also damaged the dividers. There is some kind of chemical reaction. A Zman tech is the one who told me about Flambeau.

So did I. Flambeau makes boxes that won't react to Elaztech they are not made from PVC like so many others which have a reaction to it. I now carry my open TRDs and Zeros in them.

I'll pm you where to send my gift card cause I'm old and it works.

Did you ever hear of Dale Hollow and the big winter smallmouth fishing?

My RTD came yesterday. It works like a charm. It is especially good for me being far sighted with old eyes.

I always have some around. I mostly use it on spinning reels.

I just bought an Ulterra. That solved all of the launching problems.

You San Diego Jam guys should take a look at the Pitzen. It is the Jam with one step left out. The strength is not effected and it is quicker and easier to tie.

I use the pitzen knot for all lines.

Reserve capacity is what you need to be looking at.

I bought a used Shimano 70 on this site. I liked it so well that I have bought 2 more. I use them for most everything except jigs, spinner baits, and chatter baits. BTW there is a Curado 200 on sale in the Flea Market for $110.

I for one like gadgets. I ordered one yesterday after my wife saw it on face book.

What you will find when you get into making jig heads is that some molds are harder to use than others even with soft lead. For example when I bought the Poison Tail molds the 1/2 oz cavity was very hard to get a complete pour even with very soft lead. I tried buffing out the cavity with my Dremel tool but that did not work. I got in touch with Cad Man who advised me to get some Frankfort Arsenal Drop Out spray. That fixed the problem. Since then I use it to prep my molds when I get a new one and if one gets to making incomplete pours, I clean it with acetone and put on a new coat of drop out spray. Like Clayton said, "I never pass up free lead." I keep my lead separated into piles of approximate hardness even though with the drop out spray and my RCBS melting furnace set on 800° I am seeing very few problems these days. The harder lead like good lead shot will have other stuff like antimony in it and will require more heat for it to flow well into the molds. If you don't know about fluxing the lead then you should spend a little time researching it. Fluxing is important when mixing different types of lead. I try to flux when I add lead to the pot.