Jig Man

Looks a lot like my version of cotton candy.

I use the small wipes that are for TV and computer monitors from Wally World along with a micro fiber cloth. They get all the water spots off easier than anything else I have ever used.

Most of the time I fish an exposed hook but I add a weedguard to it.

I am running 2 hds 8 units with lss1 front and back. I can't see a lot of difference in the down and side of L vs B but I don't like the B 2d sonar at all.

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!

I use UG Glove golf rain gloves.

You might get something from this, http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/Reel_Care_tips.html

I run a Low my bud runs a Bird. They both get the job done for us.

I'd want to know who has the current Pro Qualifier contract. Some of them used to come from places like Korea and they weren't quality.

I haven't repaired boat seats but have 4 wheeler seats with the vinyl repair stuff from the auto parts store. You might check that out as an option.

Without spending a bunch of money you can heat them in an stove oven or a toaster oven. If you have a heat gun or a small propane torch they will work. You can take a small cheap makeup brush and dip it into the powder, hold it over the heated head and tap the brush to get the powder to fall on the head and paint it. Rotate the head until it is all painted. I do this when I want to put 2 or more colors on a jig head.

That ratio I would call a medium cranking reel. If you want to go real deep then you need a 3.8:1 so it doesn't work you to death.

For 3/8 I use a Gloomis 6'6" and 1/2 Gloomis 7'.

http://www.springfieldgrp.com/pedestals

Never overlook a jigging spoon. Tubes and jigs are also good for me. How long before you get hard water up that way?

You could use babbitt (tin, copper, antimony) if you can find it. However, it has a higher melting temp than lead and you might not be able to do it in a lee pot.

There used to be problems with the glue a few years ago. I had one come loose. I called them (don't remember if it is Keel Shield or Keel Guard) but I was told that 3M had made a new glue and there was now a lifetime guaranty instead of three years like on mine. I took the old one off and put a new one on. It has been there for 5 years and is in great shape. If you take the product and hold it up to your boat and mark around it with a pencil, take a Scotch Brite pad and rough up the boat, then clean it well with acetone before you install it there is nothing to the job. It should be done in warm weather for a more pliable product and a better initial stick down.

Here you go.

I use both. Sometimes I mix them together. I think rubber moves better on a jig but I still use a lot of silicone. To seperate the rubber make it a it longer than you need. Tie it to the bait. Take a pair of sissors and pull the rubber pretty tight. slowly cut the rubber and each strand will pop of. I'd show you a pic but photo bucket is acting up on my computer.

TT make a fluid bed and it keeps the paint fluffy. I have seen pics of ones guys have made and keep 4 or 5 cups going at a time. I only need one color at a time so that is all mine does but once I get a color floating I don't have to do anything but dip.

Tom a fluid bed will help but won't solve that problem. Try heating them a lot less before you dip to get a thinner coat of paint and holding your pliers over the jig eye.

I heat my jigs in a toaster oven usually a dozen or so at a time. I start trying them after just a few minutes. What I want is the paint to have a dull powdery look after the jig is dipped. That gives me a very thin coat and does not have enough paint to cause runs or drips when cured for 20 minutes at 350°. If the paint is shiny, I open the door and let the cool a bit before I continue dipping. You can also build a pretty cheap fluid bed which will give you a lot thinner coat of pain vs dipping into little jars with paint that settles while you are working. If you want to build one Ted might email you a set of his instructions or I can direct you to some. Mine cost me less than $30 with enough material for 12 cups. To keep the hook eye open I hold on to that portion of the hook with a pair of needlenose pliers or hemostats. That way the opening is covered and can't get any paint on it to begin with. Therefore, with a thin coat and an eye with no paint I rarely have to clean out anything.

Unless you are pretty good you better let someone look at it. If your housing isn't cracked then you probably need new seals at least. I'd rather pay a few bucks to someone who knows what to look for than spring for a new lower unit.

I have been using that mold for a couple of years. I like it so well that I have sold most of my other molds. For the eyes, I take a small dowell and put a dab of white like you have the black then when it dries I use a pointed stick and make the center black.

A real go to around here for the rest of the winter is a 4" single tail grub on a jig head 1/16 or 1/8 depending on the depth.