Jig Man

I had the green mirror and couldn't see my gps screen with them so I switched to amber.

As far as getting hung up in brush and limbs, ablolutely. The big thing is don't pull or jerk when you get hung. Go over to it and you can normally use the weight of the other baits to jiggle it till it comes loose. Once I had to take a lure retriever on heavy cord to straighten out the hung hook. That was when I was only using 30# braid. Now I have moved to 50.

I buy all of my hooks by the 1000 count. I get them from Shorty's Hook Sales. If you don't have a Federal Tax ID then try Captain Hook's Discount Warehouse.

I can see about 10,000 bones for startup with all you have listed. Like the others recommended, pick a few of them, go to tackleunderground and read about them. You will get a feel for what the making entails and the startup costs. It will be cheaper for example if you chose jig making to buy already poured and painted heads then add the skirts. You can always get into the acutal pouring if you choose. Good luck. Making baits is fun but I can't say any cheaper than buying unless you use a bunch of one bait.

Find out who made the seats and contact them or the mfg,

I couldn't really tell what you have as I don't fish where there is any vegetation.

What kind of seats? What kind and model of boat? Those two things make a big difference in the seats.

I've tried them all and the Alberto's works best for me.

If you have a get with a big boat good luck on moving it any place. I have one under a 206 Champion. I can't move it by myself any time any where.

I have been through 5 different hooks with my A rigs. I have been having the same thing happen on the hookset with braid. I finally backed off on my drag and stopped it. I haven't found any other way.

There is always room for a price negotiation. However, there is not set amount or percentage profit margin on a used boat as all boat deals are different and how much they allowed for the boat on trade is relative to the unit that was being bought. I used to be in the business and we sometimes would give near the retail value if we had a particular boat that needed to be moved for one reason or another. Cash is not what dealerships really want. Don't get me wrong, cash is good but dealerships get comissions on financing, extended warranties, etc. If I were serious about that unit, I'd look everything over very well and have a compression test done. I'd let them know that I was serious and make an offer of $14,400 and plan to have to give maybe up to $16,500. You will have to be a firm serious buyer sitting in the sales manager's office to get this deal done right. You should also have a deal breaker in mind that you can toss in at the appropriate time in the negotiation.

I got tired of adding water and having messes in the boat so I put 2 blue tops in about a year ago. I fish a lot and they have held up all day long. I even used them in upper Bull Shoals where I had to hold against current all day long and they did fine. I don't run one of them for cranking. I opted for the Sears DieHard AGM with 1150 CCA and the same 3 year replacement that I got with the Optimas. I have a 15 amp Dual Pro. I called them to see if the charger was ok or needed an upgrade. I was told that all is well with my charger and AGMs.

I had some like that once. I put it in a bag and beat the tar out of it until it turned back into powder.I

The gps does show the features. The sd map card show coutours and channels. If you fish structure it is a good tool to have if your lakes are covered.

I use fluro/braid for clear water. I use 30# braid and fluro varies from 10-15# depending on how rocky the area is where I am fishing. I also use the Alberto's knot.

I'm not one for thinking a head makes that much difference. I think size, color and presentation are more important. That is why I have 3-5 jigs tied on all the time (same head, different sizes and colors).

I'm heading down there on Monday. Any of you guys been lately?

If you do it yourself, lacquer thinner is the best thing I have found for getting the old off. Do it outside.

I have been making my own with some stick epoxy and wire that I have on hand. They look very primitive but work and only cost me a bone or so to make. I decided to get the one on fishing skirts. With it and the resin to make the heads I have $50 tied up and it will only make 5. Here is the home made one.

No I don't think there is but you are adding another link which can fail. I had some come open on homemade Arigs last week. I lost the fish and the bait so be sure to get good ones that lock well.

At wot that EFI will drink the fuel. You should be able to keep it in the 4000 to 4500 range and get much better fuel efficiency. I run an Opti 225 I can't afford wot more than a little while as it uses 30 gph. Backed off I can get down to 10-15 and with the price of gasoline, oil, and carbon guard that is expensive enough for me.

I have a pair of them. I can use 1/4 jig but it feels a bit light for me so I normally use the 843s on 3/8 and 1/2 oz. jigs and for 3/8 oz spinnerbaits and buzzbaits. I use my 844 for 3/4 and 1 oz jigs.

My home made ones sometimes develop a weak spot after about 20 uses. When I see a color change in the material, I toss it in the trash and pull out a new one as they only cost a couple of bones to build.

I have made several of them from cathetor injectors that I get from my vet. A compression fitting around the brass tube is necessary for a good job.

I fish bridge piers quite a bit. One of them is a mile long. I fish the shady side and the sunny side as there is no telling where they will be on any given day. Some wind is a good thing as they bite more agressively with chop on the water.