Jig Man

I never change mine. I have never heard of a reason to change it out. It has a small leak that we have never been able to find so I add a couple of table spoons of fluid about 2 times each year. The brand I use is Sea Star hydraulic steering fluid.

Being just east of you I probably have similar weather. I fish all winter long except when the water gets hard then I can always go to upper Bull Shoals where it doesn't freeze. I have a Merc Optimax and run Quick Kleen in it all the time. I have been told that I don't need a stabilizer with it so I do nothing to the gasoline. I change my lower unit fluid in the fall to make sure there is no water in it. Then when I leave the lake I lower the motor and let it drain. I raise it up and lower it again and let it drain. I repeate this a third time so that all of the water gets out. That is my winter routine. I have been doing it for a very long time and have never had a problem.

I have kept meticulous records for years and the phase of the moon is one of the items that I log after each trip. The phase of the moon is most important to me when I am night fishing. I like the week before and up to 3 nights after the full moon. Frontal conditions, wind speed and wind direction play a much bigger role for me than moon phase.

D31M X2

I am a firm believer in matching the equipment. That way I don't have to adjust to the feel of a different rod every time I change especially at night. The only non matching setup for me is cranking. All of the other bc rods are from the same mfg and have Shimano Curado E7s mounted on them.

Your losing bottom should be a transducer problem not a head unit problem. Since you have moved the head around, I assume that the ducer stayed put. If so then it has to be a head problem and I'd be calling Lowrance asap.

Either or but not both JMO.

If you are going to tie by hand get you a large rotating whip finisher. It will cut your time way down and do a lot better job. Then finish off with clear nail polish. http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/OF-900440-0000?source=google_base&kw=OF-900440-0000&gclid=CKWercnjt7MCFRBgMgodun8A9Q

If you don't want it to move with boat bouncing on waves get the 2" ball. I have an 8 on the bow with one and it stays put. Be advised that the bracket holes won't align with the gimble mount holes on your hds 8. Line up the two you want bolt it down, mark where you need the new ones and drill them.

The first several years I didn't even paint jig heads. So I don't think the fish care one way or another. That being said I paint eyes on everything because I like the way they look.

Your application will be just fine. I have several Shamano 1000 size reels that I use for white bass and crappie fishing. They are just the right size for me with 4-6# mono or 8/1 braid. The stradic is a great reel but the symmetry or sahara will do you a good job and cost less bones.

I have had mine for about 5 years. I would never go back.

Braided line

I use all of the above. I've even used zip ties but don't like them at all. My wire is the windings out of an old table saw motor. My thread is flat waxed. The collars are from fishing skirts. I don't see a lot of difference in which I use except when using round rubber I have to tie or wire them. I think it is more in the eye of the beholder than the eye of the fish. Collars don't rot like they used to. I have some that have been on for over 3 years and are stil just fine.

I don't see any reason why you can't "get by" as you say with a 24v system. I am running one on a 20.5' boat and do a lot of fishing into the wind. I always have lots of power left at the end of a long day of windy fishing. I have run most flooded cells that are out there and not found much difference in them. I have been using AGM batteries for the last two years and like them a lot because they are cleaner to use.

X2

The poison tail is my jig of choice for swim jigs. For all sizes you'll need two molds.

If you buy a boat from a good dealer they will go over everything you need to know about the boat and all of its functions as well as take you to the lake and teach you how to operate it and teach you ramp and lot etiquette.

I doubt that you can fix it and if it is out of warranty you usually can't get them worked on.

The main thing about lead pouring to consider health wise is do not smoke while you are pouring and be sure to wash your hands well before you eat or drink anything.

I use a Curado G5 with a Daiwa 6.5' medium rod and 10# mono for those baits.

[What temperature does the soft plastic turn liquid? What is the upper reasonable temperature to cast? At the typical casting temperature, how long dies it take to solidify? Is the mold heated? Is a mold release used in casting soft plastic?] The material starts out as liquid and as it heats it gels a bit then turns liquid again. I have never checked the temp when it goes back to liquid. That is when I add colorant and glitter and don't have a lot of time to mess around. As soon as I get the color and glitter mixed in I continue heating. I use an infrared themometer and like to pour at 350°F. It solidifies in a matter of seconds on the first cast. I warm my molds in the winter to 75°-85°F before I begin. I don't use a release agent as such but on some of my baits with inserts like tubes and slab busters I have found that a bit of cooking oil on the mandrels makes the job a whole lot easier.

I've caught bass with mono and hooks hanging out their behinds but never seen them trying to pass any plastic. I have, however, caught a few that threw up plastic in the boat while I was unhooking them. Some of it seemed to be particially decomposed but most of the time it was still in good shape.

Rooster you are correct in keeping the batteries seperate. I run my trolling motor on what ever speed it takes to do the job. Sometimes in current or wind I'll have it cranked up for hours and hours at a time. It has been my experience that you can't harm a good trolling motor by run time. Like stated, the battery will give out before the trolling motor even starts to be over worked.

That is usually a sign of a seal failure. Have you looked to see it from the inside and checked for grease there?