Jig Man

I have had mixed success using Super Glue liquid and gel to hold things that are going to be used hard. For most of my applications I have switched to a 2 part epoxy. I use both the 5 minute and the slow cure. I get a lot more bang for my buck with the epoxy and a lot stronger hold.

If you go over to www.tackleunderground and so a search you should find our all about dipping tubes and how to make or where to buy a tool to cut the fringe strips.

You only need 2 wires make the 24 V jump at the batteries. Check and make sure your wire is at least 8 gauge.

I only use one knot for all lines to baits... THE PITZEN.

I also use a round head most of the time. I sometimes use a minnow head.

There are lots of good batteries on the market. The only ones I have heard bad about are the ones from Wal-Mart. I think if you research gel cells you won't want them. Either go for flooded cells or AGMs. I have been running AGMs for a couple of years now and after checking around Auto Zone offered me the best deal plus a 3 year warranty. I bought the blue top Optimas and run them all day long on a MG TE 82. When I was running flooded cells and had one go bad, if it were only one year old I'd replace just it. If it were 2 or more years old I'd replace both of them.

I admire you and your skill level to take on a project like that.

You can buff it but it won't last. It has been out in the sun too long and the gel coat is eroding.

An sd card will give you an alternate storage for wpts. I have a few thousand and keep them organized by lake. They took lots of time to find and record so I keep them on 2 different cards and in 2 different places in my computer. Wpt files are small and you don't need a very big card for them. If you record sonar to a card then you will need a larger one. Map cards are not ment for wpt storage. You should not try to put anything on a map card as you might corrupt the data there and lose your maps.

Thanks a bunch guys. That gives me some ideas for a remodle on a couple of old 3700 boxes that are laying around.

I have more A rigs than I need but I like to have a variety of baits and colors to see what is working best in a given situation. I'm tired of all the tangles with the hooks when two or more of them get together in the box. Anyone got a good system for keeping them apart?

We are only allowed three hooks here in MO so I put 2 small willowleaf blades on the top two arms. If you get blades too large the A rig will want to come to the top and act sort of like a buzz bait.. This pic is one that I sometimes use for white bass, thus the small baits. Note how little the willows are.

Nope I don't but I can suggest an alternative. Get a cheap coffee grinder, use Kosher salt and grind it into a powder. Unless you make thousands of baits you wouldn't need even 5# in several years.

I like the wind. I like 15+ winds when I swim jigs, throw spinnerbaits or crankbaits. It has been my experience that when the wind is from the same direction for several days the third day is the best to go. That gives the whole food chain time to react to the changes. The algea will be moved. The zooplankton will follow. The shad follow their food source. And lastly the predator fish move to the shad. Some of my very best days have been when I could barely keep my cap on and had to lean into the wind.

I have been using a Dan Vice for close to 15 years. It does all that I want. You can get them at Cabela's.

I normally stay home with sustained winds over 25 depending on the lake and the way it is layed out. Some lakes around SW MO are flatland lakes and get really rough with winds over 25 while some have large creeks and coves where one can fish and still have a good chance of catching. I listen to the forcast and plan my launch and fishing areas with respect to wind direction and speed. You'll have to learn your boat and water to see what it and you can take and still enjoy your self. The first consideration for any trip should be your and your guest's safety. If you are questioning yourself, STAY HOME.

The boats were made by Savage. I don't know if or not the current Savage company is the same one. In their day they were a good line of boats and held up well. Since John L Morris bought the company they have been through some ups and downs. For a while about 10 years ago they were the fastest depreciating boat on the market because they didn't hold up well. There were lots of stress cracks, caps coming loose, and carpet coming unglued. I understand that improvements have been made and they are better quality now.

Get in touch with Mike (Seibert Outdoors) or Ted (Cadman) and see if they can fix you up.

Everyone who fishes should know how to do this proceedure. It works well. Fishes' gills are not nearly as fragile as they seem. Your fingers won't hurt them. It is much better than leaving metal in their mouths. I have caught several fish with mono hanging from their butts with a hook on it that was passed completely through their system and did not dissolve like many think that they will..

With the lack of info that you seem to have about this setup, I think you'd be wise to contact someone at a shop and have them do the wiring on your truck to keep the charging system or contact the guy from whom you bought the boat and get more info.

Yes it will evaporate some if it is water based bit it won't matter much. I make my own plastics and the ones without scent catch as many fish as the ones with scent.

I have a Pop Snagger for cleaning out hook eyes on purchased baits. On my own powder painted baits I don't get paint into the eyes. I hold the hook with needle nosed pliers or hemostats covering the hook eye. That way no paint ever comes into contact with it and it stays clean.

I use brown paper bags and vacuum cleaner filters and don't have any paint come through them.

On the trolling motor.

Lacquer thinner will make the glue turn loose so you can easily take the old carpet off. Then you will be able to see how the back deck was installed. Be sure to do it out in the open air.