Jig Man

Most modern units no matter what brand seem to run at 200 kHz. Yes they will interfere with each other as the cone gets bigger in deeper water. The typical transducer has a 20° cone which produces a field whose diameter is roughly 1/3 of the depth. So if you have a 30 depth each transducer will have a cone with a 10' bottom and will probably start interferring with each other. You can change sensitivity and ping rates on the units and do a lot to nullify interference. Set the console ping at 100 and the bow at 50 and see if that helps.

And you will have to run WOT to get anywhere so kiss gas mileage good buy.

I throw all of my spinnerbaits and buzzbaits on MH F and H F 6'6" and 7'. I don't even own a medium bait cast rod anymore. I had one didn't use it and gave it away.

The top one because that is the kind of hook that fits in my mold. Why don't you get some of each and find out which you like. I tried several and settled on one type then bought a mold.

I hardly ever fish anything but clear water. I start with 2 baits a brown jig and a melon/pepper tube no matter what time of the year.

There are lots of choices. You can buy molds from very cheap to very expensive depending on what you want. You can also make your own molds from plaster of Paris or Bondo fiberglass resin. You will need some plasitsol, some dye and some glitter. Check out places like Jann's netcraft and Barlow's tackle shop. It is a lot of fun but don't get the idea that you are going to save big money because the start up costs can really get into your pocket.

Just having it on for days doesn't necessarily mean that it is ruined. Did you boil it dry? If not then it is probably ok. A cheap hydrometer can give you the specific gravity of each cell. They should be 12.7v at full charge. You can also have it load tested at most auto parts stores.

A friend of mine has come up with a couple of unique ideas and shown them to Bass Pro. They have bought 2 of them and have them in production in China. He got cash up front and a royalty per each item sold. I think that would be simpler than worrying about how to keep the big boys off a new product.

Numbers of fish is one thing I track on Microsoft data base. My numbers were down this past year. I fish for black bass 7 months and white bass 2 months each year. This past year I had 803 black bass and 1650 white bass.

That is very good advice. What made my decidion for me the last time I upgraded to more power was the foot control. I didn't like the size of the MK foot pedal and where the on button was located so I opted for the MG.

I looked through the whole thing. I didn't see anything I wanted. So I am going to skip it.

Sensitivity is not a constant because of different wind conditions, different oxygen content, different water temps, different water clarity from area to area. What is a good setting on one unit will not necessarily be a good setting on another one even if they are the same brand and model. Put sens on manual and adjust it as needed to keep the clearest pic. You may also benefit by trying different levels of noise rejection. Changing upper and lower limits helps what you see as well as ping speed. Rarely will one setting last all day long.

I like it very well. I keep it in my tool kit under my seat all the time. I have found several uses for it both in the boat and in the shop. I was going to buy one from Cabela's. I drove the 170 miles to the nearest store, gathered up an arm load of stuff and asked where their welder was located. They told me in the catalog. So I wound up getting nothing that day. >

I tie lots of bucktails. I use them exclusively 2 months each year on extended fishing trips. If you are using jig heads with the lead collar, I'd remove it. You get a much smoother tie using just a hook shank. I normally make 2-3 color jigs and start with one side get a good binding, twist that color to the other side of the hook and put on the second color. When it is bound down well, I add the appropriate size of chenille to complete the jig. I only use hard as nails polish on my windings before the chenille goes on and a quick swipe around the head to hold the whipping knots. Here are a few of the colors I use.

No I don't. Do you have any pics? I don't know how you are getting the stuff through the shrink wrap but I have a tool for pulling rubber into beads. I made it out of a worm sinker and some wire.

I'd not get a 12v. They are not efficient. Get a 24v around 65# of thrust and a couple of good deep cycle batteries of 185-200 reserve amps. You can go all day and have no noticable power drop off. I have a flat foot in my champion. You need to know what is under the deck before cutting that big hole. I couldn't make myself do it so I had the people who handle the produce install it. It cost me an extra $100 but I didn't have any stress and didn't screw anything up.

I have the Power Zap from Bass Pro. It also doubles as a good braid cutter. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=2379&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults

x3 Mine never leaves the boat. I use it for crankbaits, tubes, and spinnerbaits.

The last I heard pfleuger was making BPS reels. I get the shimano.

Boats have been towed millions of miles with the bumper hitches.

If it is built like a shimano there are only 2 gears to switch and it is about a 10 minute job. I bought a 3.8:1 curado for cranking and hated it. So I switched out to 6.3:1. It was quick and easy.

I've tried a bunch but have settled on the Alberto's know or modified Albright. I am using it because it is small and doesn't require glue, therefore, it passes through the guides easily and quietly. It doesn't have that clack clack like the ones with glue.

I like either white or chartreuse with painted blades in off color water.

There is a local site out of Branson where several of the guides post. Here is a link. http://ozarkanglers.com/forums/index.php?http://ozarkanglers.com/forums/

Lund boats come with a transducer board supplied. The board is attached to the boat above the water line and the transducer attached to the board. NO LEAKY that way.