Jig Man

I have fished a lot of 10# in brush and trees with jigs. The key for me is to stick um hold um and wait till they come out if they are buried in the brush. But lately I have gone to braid with fluro leader for better feel in the thick stuff.

Burley I clean mine regularly because of my many sources of lead and all the junk in some of it. I heat the pot and get all the lead out that will run out the spout. I use an old spinnerbait wire to keep freeing the hole. When the lead is out I take a flat screw driver and scrape as much stuff up as possible and dump it. The next thing I do is turn it over and take my air compressor and blow the spout out from the bottom. Be sure it is laying on its side and facing away from you. I let it cool and scrape out the inside and blow it all out again. I also take the plunger out and clean it up real well. A good pair of channel lock pliers and heavy leather gloves are a must for my little job.

If you want to be able to fish in any kind of wind don't get less than a 67# thrust, more if you have the funds.

I tried several different ones and couldn't get consistent readings from any of them so I gave up on digital and bought the Boga Grip.

kb my neighbor just had his 3rd Wal-Mart battery die in 2 years. The key ingredient in deep cycle batteries is check the RESERVE amps. The more the longer they will let you stay on the water.

MG for me I don't like the big MK foot control with the button on the wrong side.

Are you talking about plastics on a worm hook or plastics on a jig head? On worm hooks I have a variety of HOMEMADE keepers to hold the plastics. On jigheads I notch the collars with gate shears and if necessary add superglue gel.

I like to seperate my stuff into plastic boxes and keep what I need for the trip in the boat. The extras are stored in their bags in the garage. Here is what I do.

On the inside of the trailer frame there should be a plate with all the trailer info on it. Usually it is on the port side within 3-4' of the front of the trailer. You will probably have to lie down and crawl under it to see the plate.

The owner has that unit a bit underpriced. He could easily get another $700 or so for it.

I watched a bit of it but the one guy was acting like a moron so I turned it off.

I am not sure what it is. I just got the ethernet cable which is suppose to let my 2 units look at 1 transducer. I talked with a tech who said in a couple of weeks I would also be able to get 3D.

Two handed casting is like playing golf. The golf ball goes farther if the club head is speeded up during impact. The club head is speeded up by increasing the hand speed at impact. Long distance casting follows the same principle. As you make your cast you can speed up which ever hand is on the bottom of the rod handle. You will actually be pulling it back toward you. This will increase the speed of the handle in its arc. That will have a geometric effect on the rod tip and greatly speed it up which can give you quite a bit more distance with the cast. It can also be a killer for accuracy. I only do it for increased distance in open water.

Spring cold fronts are tough. If you can catch a good one coming in, you can have one of the best times of your life. After it arrives things slow down for 2 or 3 days. Fish tight to cover and perhaps deeper, but especially tight to cover.

The way I do that kind of thing is pick something out and tie it on. Make a few casts and decide if I like it or not. By process of elimination I have found out what works best for me with my stuff.

That is some kind of work both on the rod rack and the rod handles. You are not really going to take those rods out and get those handles all mucked up are you?

I have a rod rack in one box. The overflow is in BPS rod socks in the other rod box. They work quite well and sell for about 1/2 of the Storz.

I let the boxes hole themselves up and am not hindered by box sizes. I just stuff them in.

I have switched to the Alberto knot also. It was recommended by Avid on this site. It is small and needs no glue. http://www.stripersonline.com/Pages/Articles/article_arby_albertos_knot.shtml I have started using the Palomar for tying fluro to the bait. It seems a little stronger than the San Diego Jam I usually use.

Just what do you guys see? Lowrance is coming out with an update that will let me see the 3D Nav. Is it beneficial to have this option?

My wife tows my Champion 206 with her Jeep Liberty. She has hauled it to Austin, TX and back which is about 700 miles each way.

All they can share is back light synchronization and waypoints. Now with the new cable they can share a transducer. As far as I know they can not share a map. Lowrance has several free maps which you can download. If they are the lakes you fish then you can put them on some sd cards and load the into both units, but that too will require a card for each unit. I have cards for both units but never put a map card in the front one. I use the unit at the console to find stuff then I have a blank card in the front one to record the sonar trip so I can review it at home and set some new wpts on places I didn't see while fishing.

I am sure that there are subtle differences in rod taper but the main difference is one is 6.5' and the other is 7'. Like rw said the 844 is a great rod.

You can use 2 lowrance gps units and network them. If you have wpt sharing checked, when you put a wpt in one then it goes in the other one at the same time if both are turned on. Lowrance just came out with a new cable that allows you to hook up two units that are networked and have them share one transducer. My cable should be here tomorrow.

I have had to use 4x4 a time or two on ramps that were slick. It never hurts to put the truck in 4x4 every once in a while. Just remember to take it out before you head down the road.