Jig Man

I can't really tell what the head looks like. It it an arke.

If it doesn't have a floor drain, I'd put one in.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to find a scale that would do a good job of weighing fish. I tried 2 Rapala and 3 Berkley scales. They weren't consistant at all. They would give me 4 or 5 different weights on the same fish. I finally bit the bullet and bought the Boga. It is a great, accurate scale and also serves as a landing device for fish with multiple treble hooks in their mouths.

I have been using Power Pro 8/1 with an 8# fluro leader for the last 3 years. It works for me.

I would suggest that you not use the tray for storing stuff and watch for stuff getting in it. I just pulled everything out of my boat to install a new transducer in the bilge. You wouldn't believe the stuff that was down there and the only way in is through the Flat Foot drain. :

If trolling motor batteries have a memory, that is news to me. There are a couple of things you need to do to keep the batteries in top shape: 1. check them regularly for water loss, and 2. always charge them with 24 hours after you get off the water. You can buy a hydrometer at a Wal-Mart of auto parts store and check the cells. They are handy to have and cost less than $10.

I had one put in a couple of years ago. It is some of the best money I have spent for comfort and boat control.

My boat came with an indash flasher and I took it out and put an lcd unit in its place. I took a plastic cutting board and cut out a pattern that would cover the existing hole and allow the new bracket to be screwed on to it. It has been working well for over 3 years. If you are interested I can post a pic or 2.

A lot of people use a 3.8:1 for cranks and a 5:1 for spinnerbaits. The lower the gear ratio the easier they are to crank. I use the 6+:1 for everything. The slow retrieve reels drive me nuts.

I use the high vis yellow Power Pro. I use 2 sizes 8# and 30#. The 8/1 I use for vertical jigging and drop shot. It has been on for four years and I haven't even turned it around yet. The 30# is tied directly to spinnerbaits but I use a 15# fluro leader for jigs, craws, tubes, etc because I fish very clear water and lack the guts to tie it direct.

I have a bunch of different colors and sizes from 1/8 oz to 1/2 oz. The best one I have used in the last couple of years is the double bladed Terminator. I bought the white with white blades. In 30 min. there was no paint on the blades so after that I just bought white with silver blades.

I know one guy who uses it on his bearings. He says it is only good for one trip and he has to do it again. I guess they don't call him Crazy Bob for nothing.

Drag fishing might be easier than trolling. That way the paddler wouldn't get worked plumb to death.

I fish a trailer on a craw type jig. I either use a craw, twin tail grub, a chunk or a beaver. I also fish a lot of bucktails which I swim or vertical jig and I never put a trailer on them.

Exactly, I would rather have one good setup than a dozen pieces of junk. One of the guys I fish with broke a new rod on the first cast. I asked him about it and he smiled and said, "Clearance at Wal-Mart only a few bucks." I'm sitting there with a few $400 setups catching fish and he never had a bite that he could feel.

If it is a Fulton jack, call the company direct and they will sell you one and ship it to your door.

Aside from the safety equipment and spare parts, good electronics, strong batteries, and a strong trollingmotor are must haves for me.

No I am not. I took a metal tube and put a nail in the end of it. I run it through the tube, put the weed guard inside of it, and push the head into the tube until the weeguard comes through the hole. It works best if you lube the jig head a bit with oil or spit. Old tv rabbit ears will make many many of these little gizmos.

Basically, I fish tubes weedless two different ways.

Most of the time I tie the San Diego Jam. I use the palomar on dropshot and when tying hooks for Trigging.

I don't know how deep you mean but I probe do 70' with a jig.

I normally fish 20-50' deep but have found good fish on main lake points in very shallow water at night. They are especially liking a black single spin.

I have caught a spot with part of a rusty hook coming out its butt. I don't know how long it took to pass that thing. I took it out and it had about 6" of mono on it. Here is a good read on removing deep hooks. http://www.in-fisherman.com/magazine/articles/if2806_HookRemoval/index.html

I use a teflon coated pan. I glue the baits to it. I spray them with some type of oil. I mix the bondo and pour it on. I go away till tomorrow.

If they both run at the same kHz, yes they can interfere with each other. It will usually be in pretty deep water. You can minimize this by slightly changing the angle of the transom transducer to point more rearward. When mine get to reading each other the digital depth readings go wild.