Pogues2300

Oh OK my bad didn’t know he used 300$ glides still wouldn’t ever think in a million years the difference in the creation of a glide bait would be worth that much but again I’d have zero issues with those wanting to pay that

Based on what? Just curious why you think that. I am not sure but one thing I’m sure about no big pro event was won on some 200$+ bait

I’ve fished them both and based on results I would be pretty surprised if the difference in bites if you threw them both in the same spot isn’t worth worrying about. Both good to me.

I’m no expert but my intuition says it’s more collector. Ben Milliken just won a Bassmaster open and one of his main baits was a 6th sense glide bait much cheaper than the custom. I’ve done decent using River 2 sea S waver 168 and that’s under 20$. My Buddy bought a beautiful custom glide 200$ used it opening day and a pike bit him off…. Yeah I can’t spend that much on a bait lol

I think the fg’s reputation for being hard to tie is overblown. I re-tie it in my kayak so on a boat even easier.

I have imx pro 906 cbr and 855 cbr fantastic rods nothing but love for imx pro

For a heavy rod for jigs I have a nrx + 844c and Megabass orochi perfect pitch. I’d say the 844c is probably better at dragging jigs and the perfect pitch a tad more crisp if I’m stroking a jig. Reread your post and saw the price point. I’ve heard good things about 844 c in other models to get within that $

Sorry that happened. I had the ehrler spinning rod with ags and really liked it…. Rod bag slid over when I shut my van door and….. it’s gone oops

It’s funny I have four tatula sv and none of them have issues but on the flip side I have two new zillions and one of them feels geary under load. They are the usdm versions though so even more expensive. To answer the question I use the tatulas for every technique from finesse to frogging and cranking down to 16 feet or so.

lol reminded me I saw a guy at work trying to pound screws in with a hammer….I told him to twist his wrist to the right on impact.

Thanks I’ll check it out. And thanks to the other responses as well. Only owned one other non daiwa reel so not much experience with the internal brakes.

Nothing obvious to me… guess I will probably just live with it since I never need more than two brakes it’s just a bit annoying paying 400$ for it lol. The brake issue aside I really love the reel and I’m sure it’s just a fluke.

It’s not just you. I switched to braid to a long fluoro leader and never looked back.

Nrx 873 crr, Zillion sv G

Bought a Metanium Mgl b last year and right off the bat notices if I had more than one brake turned on it was really choked off for lack of a better term. You basically need to pull the line it wouldn’t free fall whatsoever. Had personal issues last year didn’t fish much so didn’t take it back. Went out yesterday and played with every configuration and figured out it’s just when one specific brake is engaged I have an issue. Any one encounter this before? I guess it’s not a huge deal now that I know but if it’s an easy repair I’d like to know. Thanks, sorry for the rambling

I owned the orochi flat side special and actually kinda regret selling it. Was really good for square bills/shallow diving cranks and also smaller walking baits/poppers

I kayak fish and was wondering if anyone knows any lakes within 30 minutes or so from two harbors (my sister lives there) that have decent smallmouth. Thank you.

Funny I have the exact opposite experience for some strange reason lol

I personally use higher gear ratios for everything really and at that depth you will be fine. I use 30lb braid to a 12 lb mono leader usually. I don’t fish rocky lakes or maybe I’d use fluoro, my cranking rods are graphite (imx pros) so I like a little stretch the mono gives.

I used strike king 8” bull worm with those hooks and it seemed to work well.

Good luck to everyone getting out this weekend!

I fish pretty much only lakes where bluegill is the primary bait fish and very often use a green pumpkin rage craw on a bluegill colored swim jig and do well. Do I know if they think it’sa bluegill?? Nope but they sure eat them.

I started in a cheap 10 foot pelican that had a flat spot behind me with bungees and I put a milk crate there. Bought some pvc and cut it in 4 pieces the height of the crate and zip tied them to the corners. There’s four rod holders for you or maybe one is for the net. Only other mod I made was attaching a taco clip to hold the paddle. Lots of videos doing simple stuff like this. Lastly rod length never bothered me I frequently use a 7’6” crankbait rod. Really was fun moving from bank to kayak. Have fun! Ps… I now have a pedal kayak and it’s great especially in the wind but definitely not needed.

I wouldn’t force it. I bought a p5 x-bites and for some reason preferred my nrx 873crr. Basically was never using it so I gave my friend a good deal on the rod and went out and bought a zillion lol. If it doesn’t feel right get something that does!

For me these are two different actions. I like more of a jig rod for chatter bait/spinnerbait, much more moderate action for crank baits. For me the closest to a compromise would be my nrx+ 844c which does great for chatter/spinner baits and I suppose would be ok for deep diving cranks although i don’t use it for that. All personal preference I suppose as I see others use much more moderate for chatter baits. Good luck! Interested to know what you come up with. I also kayak fish by the way, four rods in corners of my crate, plus two more in built in rod holders for a total of 6 … sometimes take less though