Big Hands

Back in the early 80's I caught my first several plastic worm fish dragging black 2" Mister Twister curly tail worms. I thought I'd never catch a bass on a plastic worm. Now, they are undoubtedly my most consistent producer. Fluttercraft Screamers and Twin T's are still fish catchers. I used to purchase Screamers by the 100's in cinnamon blue/black flake and salt-n-pepper. The Twin T's (a Yamamoto bait from long ago) in Pumpkin Pepper and salt-n-pepper were staples too. I still occasionally break out one or two from the few I have left just to see if they still have that magic. . . . They do.

I liked curly tails a LOT back in the day. Currently, I use more straight tails, but I say don't be sleepin' on a good curly tail plastic. Right now my two best baits are a 5" Senko (which pretty much rules every year at this time) and a Zoom Tiny Brush Hog. The other day, I caught 8 bass in a very short amount of time. The first one tore one of the curly tails off of my Tiny Brush Hog, but the next seven bass didn't care before it finally gave up. I am fishing on BFS, Texas rigged with a 1/16 or 1/8 ounce tungsten sinker on 6 lbs mono.

I have tried hundreds, if not thousands of Trilene (aka: double improved clinch) knots, and don't recall ever having them slip. I do carefully cinch them down, and then leave close to a 1/8" tag on them. These days though, any time I would be tempted to use a Trilene knot, I now use the San Diego Jam knot, or sometimes if I really want to be certain a knot won't fail, the Double San Diego Jam gets the call. My knot game is mostly the Alberto for braid to leader, Palomar for hooks and other terminal tackle, and the SDJ for other more expensive baits. I can get by most days with just those.

I have: 2017 Daiwa SV TW Shimano SLX 150 DC Shimano Curado 150 DC If I am being honest, they are three of the most expensive baitcasters that I own, yet they are my least favorite reels to use that are in my starting rotation 'first string' casting combos. Mostly because they don't cast as far as my other reels that cost less. Where I fish and how I fish, casting distance is a high priority. They are not terrible, and they are otherwise every bit as nice as anything else I own, but I just can't cast them like I can the others. And, they are prone to backlashes; maybe only slightly less than my non-digitally controlled reels. I'd pay less, and be happier with a Curado or SLX 70 MGL, and I think even a novice would too. I'd put some 10 or 12 lbs Big Game or Ande monofilament on there are let him hammer on it. An o-ring pick makes a great tool for picking out backlashes.

St. Croix MJS76MLXF They have gone to the Trigon handles on the latest Mojo Bass rods, but the outlet store still sells this model for $160. I have had mine for about two years now and I have been contemplating buying another just to put in the rafters in case the unthinkable happens to the one I have. I don't fish hair jigs, but this thing slays with a 5" weightless wacky Senko. I feel bites on a bowed line, and it is really good at keeping fished pinned.

For the kind of fishing you specify, I could see you having two ML spinning rods, one slightly different from the other. A garden variety 7'0 ML/F for Ned, dropshot, slightly heavier shakeyheads, 3.8" Keitech Fat Impact. And then a longer ML/XF for weightless and weightless/wacky Senkos, lighter shakeyheads, and smaller ballhead swimbaits. There would be some overlap between the two and that would allow you to be rigged with a 1-2 light spinning rig when the bite is narrowed down to that, which it often is. And then a moderate casting rig for good control of hard baits with treble hooks.

Was this the 'before' picture?

I have the a 7'4 Tatula Elite MHRB (TTEL741MHRB). I really like this rod. Much more than I thought I would. My favorite reel on it is a Curado 200K (6.2:1) with 15 lb Big Game monofilament. A reel that casts a mile and has a lower gear ratio is what I have liked the most with it. I have tried other reels just for S&G, but have settled on the Curado 200K. Soooo, I look to the Daiwa website to see how they might be similar or different. Now, this is typical Daiwa. The Tatula "H" rod is rated as 'Heavy' and for 1/2 to 1-1/2 oz lures, but for 12 to 20 lb line. Then the other Tatula (Elite) rods are rated as 'Medium Heavy' for 1/2 to 2 oz with 10 to 20 lb line, and finally a 'Medium Heavy' for 1/4 to 1-1/4 oz lures on 12 to 25 lb line. A MH rod is rated for 1/2 to 2 oz lures, while a H rod is rated for 1/2 to 1-1/2 oz lures. Maybe I am missing something in the translation. Maybe they have some rationale for what looks to be some conflicted rating criteria. Maybe. . . . It does give me pause to feel like I could suggest a 200K rather than a 150/100 size reel for what on the surface seems more similar than they actually are.

These days, I am willing to be "wrong" much more often. A few years ago, I fished over 50 days (fished all year through), caught bass every trip. Every last one of 'em was caught either on soft plastic: a dropshot, a weightless wacky Senko, a Texas rig worm, or a Carolina rig. In the years since then, I am more into trying lots of different things. Not because I think I should. Mostly because I just wanna fish how I wanna fish. There was a time I would not have taken seriously hearing that there is a frog bite at Castaic (upper lake). I'd like to think I have evolved. . . in a good way.

Most of the lead acid battery market is dominated by just two manufacturers: Clarios (formerly Johnson Controls) East Penn Everyone else is small potatoes in comparison. Both of those major manufacturers make batteries for retailers and slap whatever label is wanted on it for the retailer. Prices and warrantees vary from retailer to retailer. Some retailers sell batteries from one manufacturer in one area of the country, and then sell batteries from the other producer in another part of the country. There are some smaller domestic manufacturers that make some excellent batteries, but they tend to be noticeably pricier. The first questions I would ask you are: Do you have a budget figure in mind? Would you be willing to commit to maintaining the water level in flooded style lead acid batteries? Do you have size or weight constraints? What amp hour requirements do you have? What are the specs of the trolling motor? What other devices are on your boat that will need to be accounted for besides just the trolling motor?

The Megabass Kanata is 6.33" long and weighs 1 ounce. Runs at 4' deep. You can send one a long ways and it has some awesome action. Megabass also makes the SuWitch that weighs 1-1/8 oz, dives 0-4 feet, is 5.4" long. . . . and it floats! The Duo Realis Fangbait is 5.5" long, weighs 1-3/8 ounces, dives 2-3 feet deep. . . . and it floats! There is also a Lucky Craft Pointer 128 that weighs 1 oz., is 5" long, dives 4-5' and is listed as a 'suspending' bait. I don't have a SuWitch, a Fangbait or a Pointer 128 (I have most other Pointer sizes, but not the 128), so I cannot verify the action, buoyancy, or depth.

What is gained by the 14 - 3/4" handle (which seem a bit long, essentially making a 7' rod fish more like a 6'8" to 6'10" rod)?

The Shimano World Minnow is 4.5" long and weighs 5/8 oz and has a weight transfer system to optimize weight bias during a cast and then adjusts in the water to a better swimming / jerkbait angle. Depth is listed at 4-6 feet.

Instead of having a 15" minimum size limit at the upper lake at Castaic, I would rather they allowed people to only keep the smaller bass (under 13" for instance). I don't think they need a slot limit on the upper lake because I don't imagine there are many, if not ANY bass that are currently over 24" in there today. Trout are currently stocked in Castaic. There was a 5,000 lbs plant a month or so ago. There were mostly 2-3 lbs trout planted at that time. I don't think are are a ton of bass in Castaic that are eating trout of that size. Even the mostly under 5 lbs stripers that make up the majority of the striper population might have a rough time choking those down. There will be a 2,000 lbs trout plant there at the beginning of May for a kid's fishing event where they put them all in a pen and let kids fish for them for half a day. There are currently over 1,000 kids signed up to participate, then they will take the net down and we'll see what happens. Do stripers spawn in Castaic? Yes, they do. I have seen it. It looks very similar to feeding on balls of shad at the surface, but they are actually much more concentrated and aren't super interested in striking a lure tossed into the fray. Castaic has had 40 lbs class stripers caught back when they were first getting into the lake. Now, just like the double digit bass that used to roam there, I rarely see or hear about big stripers there these days. I don't think Castaic EVER grew 40 lbs stripers, they just ended up there at the end of their aqueduct journey. They move a lot of water through the lake and the level is not necessarily indicative of how much water is entering the lake. In fact, the water in Castaic only rises or falls because of aqueduct water. Whatever flows in naturally has to flow out (through the upper lake, down into the lagoon, and then into the riverbed at the south end of the lagoon. The lagoon has a 13" minimum and has better quality fish than the upper lake currently does. Stripers have (rarely) been caught in the lagoon, but no small ones I am aware of, which makes me believe that the lagoon doesn't have the right conditions (as I have been told) for them to successfully spawn in the lagoon. Could it be restored to any significant degree? I don't see how Castaic would ever be able to come come close to going back to it's former glory status without killing every striper in the lake along with fixing it so they can't enter the lake. Without that happening, I don't even think they should try if their goal is for the lake to produce world class largemouth bass like it did BITD. It was all but an accident that it happened at all in the first place. Were it not for a couple dozen Florida strain fingerlings being planted back when the lake was first impounded, even that wouldn't have have happened. I may or may not have heard tall tales of some independent non-sanctioned stockings here and there, or maybe just . . . there. At this point, stocking fingerlings makes as much sense as drinking poison and hoping your enemies will die. Will it be restored to any significant degree? Stranger things have happened. . . . Wait a minute, even I don't believe that. Even if they could, I don't believe they ever would.

I like all of my horses on the courses they are best suited to, but if I could only keep one reel, it would be my SLX MGL 70. It does lots of things quite well and doesn't particularly disappoint in any areas. I have other reels that excel in their niche, but that would be my 'desert island (with a lake)' pick.

I regularly use line from these brands (in particular order): Sunline (braid and fluoro) Seaguar (braid and fluoro) Trilene (monofilament) Daiwa (braid and fluoro) Ande (monofilament) Stren (monofilament) There are not too many things (if any really) related to fishing that I am brand loyal to. It makes life a lot easier if I don't have to avoid something I would otherwise use simply because it's from a different brand. I went through a 'braid phase' where I had it on practically everything. Now, braid is my preferred line for light spinning and maybe one or two baitcasters, and I use mostly fluorocarbon leaders with any braid. I use straight monofilament on most of my baitcasters these days because it makes my life a lot simpler, and also because Berkley Big Game and Ande are super economical (my eye doesn't twitch every time I want to respool). Braid on spinning reels lasts at least two seasons if I use leaders (I always do). I do have 10 lbs braid (from a few different brands) on pretty much ALL of my L, ML, and M spinning rods with 6-8 lbs Daiwa Samurai fluoro leader. I have three BFS baitcasters, and two of them are spooled with 6 lbs Ande monofilament. The other has recently been spooled with 15 lbs braid (it will have a leader) which I will try with the other BFS using small crankbaits. . . We shall see how that works.

I went on a vision quest to find the holy grail of 5" Senko rods because I fish them more than anything else for 6-8 months of the year, and feel like I learned a few things along the way. The first thing I learned is that Senko fishing is not the same for everyone and a rod that may be fantastic for one person, may not be all that great for another. After trying several rods, both spinning and casting, I finally found one that stands head and shoulders above the others . . . FOR ME and the way that I prefer to fish them (mostly tossing them up against bluff walls or right at the waterline and dragging them into deep water). I fish them wacky & weightless on brightly colored 10 lb braid with a 6-12 ft leader of 6-8 lb fluorocarbon leader on a Daiwa LT2000 size reel with a 6.2:1 gear ratio (shallow spool JDM versions are my reel of choice). The rod I ended up loving and purchasing is the St. Croix Mojo Bass MJS76MLXF (7'6" Hair Jig spinning rod). From casting, strike detection, setting the hook, fighting and boating the fish, there isn't any part of the process it doesn't do extremely well. I recently found out the this particular rod has now reached "recently retired' status as the Mojo Bass line has been revamped and now features the new Trigon grips and the 7'6" Hair Jig model is now a 7'10" Hair Jig rod. I have no idea how it works and probably will never know because I am not a fan of the Trigon (particularly the reel seat part). The one I have is still available as a 'recently retired' model by at least one seller that I saw. But, that is just what works for me and the way I fish. You just might have your own somewhat unique requirements.

I do to, and I wish I could say it makes a significant difference. But if I am being honest (not much point in conversing otherwise), I don't think they look much different than they would if left untreated.

8'10" long and throws 8-20 oz swimbaits? And, now you have two of them? Don't be skipping arm and shoulder days at the gym ;~)

I agree with your statement 100%; travel could mean something that could 'travel' behind the back seat of a pickup truck, or in luggage for a flight, or the inside of a backpack. However, I was specifically asking the OP so I (we) could tailor our responses to his specific situation.

Do you consider a two piece rod to be a travel rod?

Check out the Okuma Epixor. I have used Okuma rods and they are decent value for the price. This particular model features a full cork grip on their 7' M/MF spinning rod at $81.99 MSRP. It appears you're looking for a sort of 'do-it-all' type of rod and for that reason, a mod fast action might be a wise choice for a medium power spinning rod rather than straight up fast since you may be throwing both treble hook baits as well as single hook baits. Also, a 6'6" rod is OK, but unless you have some constraints I am not aware of (such as bank fishing where there is lots of trees and vegetation to work around, or kayak fishing where a shorter rod might be easier to work with) you might like the 7' (+/-) rods a little better as they will cast further, take up more line when setting a hook, and give you more margin for error when landing a fish. JMHO.

The Walters Tatula Elite jerkbait rod is an AGS rod. The Feider Tatula Elite jerkbait rod is not an AGS rod. After lusting for the Tatula Elite Feider Hair Jig rod for a couple years, I finally got to hold one and look it over at the local tackle emporium. There was a small tag attached to the rod that said not to use a a leader attached to braid that was more than 3 feet long. Presumably that is so that you wouldn't need to cast a braid to leader connection knot through their AGS guidetrain. No thank you. If that is the case with all of the Tatula Elite AGS rods, that is a no-go for me, but YMMV.

NASCAR is among the most prolific sponsor/product placement conscious groups out there. Even more nauseating than gas being referred to "Sunoco Racing Fuel" are the post race victory lane antics.