Bankc

I fish them in different places, so it's not entirely fair to compare. I use jigs for wood and pitching to shallow cover. I use Carolina rigs for fishing off muddy banks and deeper structure. And I use Texas rigs for fishing vegetation. Ultimately, the T-rig produces the most fish, followed by jigs. So I fish a T-rig more often. Also because there isn't much else that will come cleanly through grass.

Flex Seal? I have no idea how long that stuff would last in an application like that. But they do advertise that it's made just for this type of thing. Still, I'd want to do it right with the minimum being a good, waterproof epoxy. A marine silicone glue might work too if it's a very small leak. But I'd locate the leak and go that route.

They say El Nino is coming this summer. So whatever weather patterns we're seeing this year won't likely be repeated next. Whether it's for the worse or better probably depends on where you live. We had been in a La Nina since September of 2020. 2023 has mostly been neutral as we make the transition from La Nina to El Nino. But the upcoming El Nino has a lot of people worried that it could be one of the worst on record, as we recently recorded the highest ever average temperatures in the Pacific. In my region, it means worse. Hotter summers. More storms and more violent storms. More wind. Colder winters. On the plus side, less boaters. And El Nino's don't last as long as La Nina's. Usually just a year, versus 1-3 years for La Nina.

I can't say that I've ever really noticed water level effecting the fish that much. Then again, I'm not a great angler. Sure, when the water level rises, the fish will push up into new areas that weren't accessible before. And when it falls, they'll pull back into new areas that weren't as accommodating before. And the water level can completely change the layout of the lake and how it fishes, as seen from above the surface. But I try to view the lake from the eye's of the fish, and not think about it in terms of surface features. So while water level changes can definitely change where the fish will be located from our perspective, I don't feel as though it has as large of an effect on their actual behavior. Then again, what do I know?

I can sympathize. This is most years for me. Well, not the cold, so much. But usually from February until June, I can't get out on the water due to the wind. There will be a couple of decent days, here and there. But getting one to fall on a weekend when I don't have to be at work is pretty rare. I typically get out about 2-3 times during that span. This year's been better than most for me. I've probably been out six times this spring. Last year wasn't too bad, maybe four. But the year before that was pretty bad. And in 2020, I couldn't safely get out on the water from Christmas until May 20th.

This is good advice. Because in your case, it's not just the weight you have to consider, but your height. The taller you are, the higher your center of gravity, and the more you'll have to curl up your legs and the less comfortable the seat will be. Shorter people can stretch out their legs without standing and stand up and sit down easier while on the water. They don't have to lean over as far to keep balanced. So it's not just an issue of, can you technically do it, but an issue of, can you fish as long as you want without it being so uncomfortable that you hate using it.

Yeah, anything that rubs against anything else won't hold paint long. And anytime you scratch it against something, the white paint will show through. I probably wouldn't worry about it. But if you're insistent, then just be prepared for scratches and wear marks. As noted, the plastic is impregnated with the color when molded, so while a plastic paint will stick to it, it won't be nearly as durable. As for the stickers, get some naphtha and soak them in that. It should release the adhesive and allow them to come off. Just peel carefully, and allow time for the naphtha to soak in and work its way under the sticker. You might need to reapply some adhesive to get them to go back on. Maybe try a waterproof, permanent bond spray glue? Something like 3M Hi-Strength 90? Or better yet, just see if you can buy new stickers.

Crankbaits, with spinnerbaits being a close second.

My only rule on hooks is no Eagle Claw. They tend to rust too easily for me. Plus they need to be sharpened early and often. The Trokars are supposed to be better, but that brand has soured me, so I won't even give them a try. I'm not even picky on hook sizes. 1. and 2. EWG around size 1/0. 3. Zman Pro Shroomz with the weed guard. 4. some kind of drop shot hook/octopus hook around size 1.

For me, it's definitely the wind. Especially during the spawning season, there's often too much wind on the days I have off to get out and safely fish. Second would be loading and unloading my kayak. That takes a long time, both at the lake and at home, and wears me out. Lots of other things will annoy me, like wake boarders in the cove, party boats with their loud music, bass boats that think they own the water and try to push me off or beat me to spots, angry strangers that want to confront you over stupid things, and of course, gear failures on the water. But I can take all of that in stride. Freezing temps and 100° days aren't much fun either, but I know how to handle them. Even the crowds can have a positive side. Sometimes you'll see someone fishing a spot you never thought of, or you'll have to get creative on an old lake to find new spots. It keeps you learning.

Sunscreen is tricky. SPF is more marketing than science. The SPF number is calculated against UVB rays, which are more likely to cause sunburn and tanning. What SPF doesn't address is UVA rays, which are the ones more likely to cause skin cancer. And sometimes a sunscreen with a higher SPF will have a higher protection against UVB, but a lower protection against UVA. So you want to look for something with "broad spectrum protection". There's also the concern of dangerous chemicals in sunscreen, like oxybenzone and octinoxate. Oxybenzone and octinoxate are hormone disruptors which are not only potentially bad for you, but also bad for the fish if the sunscreen dissolves into the lake. Sunscreen containing these chemicals are banned in many places with sensitive coral reefs like Hawaii and the Bonaire in the Caribbean because they're known to contribute to coral bleaching. Studies suggest they also contribute to sexual dysfunction and birth defects. While none of this has been proven in humans yet, it also hasn't been extensively studied. So we don't know the whole story right now. And safer alternatives are available if you don't like the gamble. I buy Sun Bum Mineral SPF 30 lotion. Why? Beyond the fact that it's reef safe and broad spectrum, I have no idea. I guess I bought it once and didn't hate it enough to switch. I like the SPF 30 because it isn't as thick and works well enough. I tend to sweat a lot in the summer, so it's more important that I reapply it often than I use a higher SPF and try to make it all day on one application.

Good advice. I have a "holiday lake" that I go to on Memorial Day weekend, 4th of July, Labor Day weekend, stuff like that. It's a terrible fishing lake, but it's also not very crowded (probably because it's a terrible fishing lake and you can't waterski except in a small part right next to the dam). And when everyone hits the good lakes all at once and is drinking and talking to their friends, it's just too dangerous to get out on the crowded lakes in a kayak. There's a good "fishing lake" that is better than my normal lakes (though a good bit of a drive) that I'll avoid on the best weather days. Not so much because it's dangerous. It's crowded enough with anglers that you can't really get up to speed even if you wanted to. But I just don't find it fun. That lake has an unwritten rule when it's crowded. Everyone is supposed to start at one end and run around the lake counterclockwise, trolling about 15-20 feet from the bank. If you move too slowly, they get mad at you. If you drop anchor, they get mad at you. If you try to pass someone, they get mad at you. You can drop anchor offshore and fish; they'll let you do that. Otherwise, it's like a fishing carousel that runs about 3mph.

What are you wanting from the trolling motor? Do you want speed or control? What's your budget? If you want speed, for traveling long distances, probably look at getting a normal kayak and then adding a Torqeedo to it. They're going to be almost twice as fast as a standard trolling motor. You'll either have to install it yourself or pay someone else to install it. It'll have to be mounted on the stern. If you want control, then you're probably looking at something with spot lock and maybe GPS waypoints. You'll want to get a compatible fish finder for that as well. There are lots of options here. You can either buy a bow mount trolling motor and install it yourself (or have it installed) or buy one with a trolling motor already attached, like the Old Town mentioned above. If your budget is small, your best bet is to get a small trolling motor (like a 30# Minn Kota C2 Endura) and install it yourself. There are several options, like mounting it on the stern or on the side. The stern will give you more control and speed, but the side will be a lot cheaper and easier to set up. The Ascend kayaks aren't very highly regarded, but the 133x with a trolling motor might be alright. One of their biggest complaints is that they're hard to paddle, but with a trolling motor, that's not an issue. Still, for the money you could probably get a better setup for less if you built it out yourself. But that depends on how handy you are and how much time you want to spend on it.

The fact that you would even think this says to me that you're a good person! But if it's a public lake, then by that definition there can be no ethical problem with fishing it yourself, provided there is no one else using it at that time. If there were, it would create a whole host of other problems with public land use. It would be unethical to recognize that as someone else's spot, due to the precedence set by that action. Sharing is what makes it public. And it's important that we utilize, respect, and protect what little public access areas remain to ensure their value is passed on to future generations.

Wacky and Ned rigs are my most common follow up lures. A lot of times, it'll just be whatever I have tied on, so it could be a shaky head, jig or whatever. But I tend to opt for a slower, more finessey follow up bait.

Tungsten is expensive and lead is still legal around here, so I only use tungsten for larger weights to cut down on size. So for me, 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 oz. are lead and 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1 oz. are tungsten. I also occasionally use 1/4 oz. brass with a glass bead on T-rigs in stained water. I try not to get too deep into the metaphorical weeds with weight sizes and avoid of a lot of the in-betweens. I also don't get too caught up with shapes, opting for mostly bullet weights, some pear sinkers in 1/8 and 1/4 and a few split shots in the lighter weights. I try to keep my inventory down to make things easier to find. I know rate of fall is the usual reason someone chooses a weight, but to be honest, with the wind around here and how I often fish from the bank, I more often than not choose weight based on casting distance needed.

Well, you want to alternate, of course. One over, the next under. That way they'll snug up next to each other. But I generally just keep the windings pinched in my left hand to tie the first overhand, and then slowly work it back into position while it's still a big, lose loop before cinching it. And I cinch it by pulling the tag end back against the direction of the knot, so it pulls up nice and snug to the rest of the knot. Maybe I do something weird that I'm not aware of. But I've never had issues with the overhand knots, other than the occasional breaking off too early when trying to use something like 6# fluoro and cinching too tightly. In fact, I find the FG a lot easier to tie than the Palomar. Of course, it takes a LOT longer to tie. But I often get the line twisted with the Palomar and that reduces the strength of the knot, or get it hung up in the hooks. Whereas the FG doesn't give me fits, assuming I'm willing to commit a full 1-2 minutes to it.

I know some kayak companies include the weight of the kayak in the total capacity, and some don't. So sometimes you have to subtract the 85lbs. or whatever of the kayak itself from the total weight capacity rating for the kayak. And realistically, it's best not to get near the upper limit. I've been right below the upper weight limit of a kayak before. It makes the craft unstable, slow, difficult to operate, and even dangerous in waves. I backed it off by about 50lbs (carrying less gear), and it made it much, much more safe, easy, and fun to use. An absolutely huge difference. At 370, you're looking at a pretty large sit on top. Beyond comfort, I don't think any sit in kayak will be wide enough to keep you from rolling over. You'll want a pontoon or tri-hull design, which are common on sit-on-top fishing kayaks, but not sit-ins. And I'd probably look for something with a minimum of 500lbs weight rating, that way you've got some room for gear without getting too close to the upper limit. Something like a Jackson Big Rig, Hobie PA 12 or 14, or a Wilderness Systems ATAK 140 would all work.

Except a boat is made of something much sturdier and the thin HDPE plastic of a kayak. And with the weight of the motor bouncing up and down, it can wear down the plastic around the mount. But it's up to you. A lot will depend on how rough the ride is to and from the lakes. Plus, the construction of the kayak, the rigidity of the mount, and how well the motor is balanced during transport. It might be fine for practical purposes. Who can say. I'm sure the Torqueedo people put it in their literature for liability reasons. But since they mention is, there is an obvious risk involved. And it's one you'll have to decide if it's worth taking.

They all can sink. At least the soft plastic ones. I've had several from all different brands that as they age, they start taking on water more quickly. Brand new, they're great. But over time, they just deteriorate. On most, you'll have to get into the habit of squeezing out the water after every few casts. It's just the nature of the beast. And eventually, they'll get bad enough that they have to be tossed. I've tried repairing them with silicone adhesive before, and that doesn't really work.

Yeah. While lithium batteries are typically more cost effective in the long run (though the cost of a new charger will push back the break-even point), they're not cost effective if you're replacing perfectly fine batteries before their lifespan is up. But there will come a day in the not-too-distant future where these lead acid batteries won't be available. Just look at the old zinc carbon (original AA, C, D cell batteries) and zinc chloride (Heavy Duty) batteries. Once the zinc manganese dioxide batteries came out (our modern day alkaline) the old batteries gradually went away because it made little sense for manufacturers to maintain the equipment that made them. It's already happening to gel cell batteries. AGM and lead acid won't be too far behind. Maybe 10 more years?

Check out Will Prowse Solar's YouTube channel. He has lots of tear downs and reviews of off brand lithium batteries. Some even have long term reviews, which don't just rely on his personal experience over the long term, but the experience of his followers. Now, considering a 100Ah 12v battery in lead acid will run you a minimum of $150, and a 100Ah 12v battery LiFePo4 battery on the internet can be had for around $350-400, it's almost a no-brainer. The average charge and discharge cycles a LiFePo4 can handle are supposed to be between 1000-3000, or 9 years. A lead acid is around 300-1000 and 3 years. So that LiFePo4 should have about TRIPLE the lifespan, making up for the price difference right there. AND, a LiFePo4 battery can be drained between 80-90% of their capacity without doing significant damage, meaning you almost get double the usable power in the same size package (that weighs about 80% less). So it's almost not fair to compare a 100Ah lead acid battery with a 100Ah LiFePo4 battery. It's probably more fair to compare a 100Ah lead acid battery with a 60Ah LiFePo4 battery, since both yield around 50Ah of usable charge. In other words, we've crossed the threshold where lead acid batteries are actually more expensive to own over the long term. That's what the simple math says now.

I came across an article about this yesterday and thought the same thing through the headline. I'm okay with separate gender classes. There aren't nearly as many female anglers out there, so it might help get more of them more excited about the sport. Besides, it doesn't hurt me any. Don't get me wrong, I agree it's a bit silly, but so is line class to me. With today's drag systems and the fact that largemouth bass don't fight THAT hard (compared to some saltwater species), I don't find it a big deal to pull in a double-digit bass on thin line. Sure, it's more difficult and might take you twenty minutes instead of twenty seconds, but it's still something most experienced anglers would be able to pull off, baring getting wrapped around some timber or lost in the salad. Now if it frequently resulted in 4-8 hour fights where physical endurance really started to play a role, that would be different.

Have you considered moving to baitcasters? I find that baitcasters are easier on my shoulders during retrieve due to not having to hold the rod up and out to reel. Spinning reels will wear me out on long days. Maybe it's just me and that's what I'm used to. But the more compact design and rod being basically inline with the axis of the reel relieves some of that stress.

I'll use a trailer hook for buzzbaits. They move fast enough that bass will occassionally short strike them. But for spinnerbaits? Nah. They're not needed, in my opinion. I've thought about using a trailer hook for shaky heads, but I don't know exactly how that would work. I just know that these spotted bass love them, but will often just grab the back half. Sometimes you can still hook them if you give them a second to get a second bite, but I'd rather hook them on the first.